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wont boost under load


STiNGR
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Car wont boost under load...Doing my fcuking head in! Can this be due to a bad alternator? I charged battery took it for a drive, drives ok for like 5 min then as soon as you try and load the car up it dies/backfires/ and just wont run. nurse it home and switch it off, leave it for a bit and battery is flat. So is this issue due to bad alternator? Ready to scrap the dam thing I'm that over it.

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Just don't leave it running for too long with the battery disconnected, can be bad for the ECU. After you charge it and get it running, turn the lights and heater on then check the battery voltage with a multi meter. Should be above 14v, if not your ALT is toast.

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Cheers fullas. If it is alternator I will be keen on yours hijacka, its just I off to rarotonga in 3 weeks so I wont get one till after I get back. What ya want for it? 2 pin yer? ok ross I will gie that a nudge, just cant turn heater on as I have taken blower fan out cos it was poked.

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Might have a v4 blower fan unit aswell.. like 20slides for it will do. I'm sure I do have one but might pay to pm me the part number so I can double check.. if it's toasted then it will die on idle and won't run on once you disconnect the bat terminal can't see how it would effect the ecu either

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 hijacka said:
If it's toasted then it will die on idle and won't run on once you disconnect the bat terminal can't see how it would effect the ecu either

A quote taken from here:

http://www.troubleshooters.com/dont_disconnect_battery.htm

Your battery does more than just provide electricity. It also shorts AC, spikes and transients to ground. Removing the battery from the circuit allows those spikes and transients to travel around, endangering every semiconductor circuit in your car. The ECU, the speed sensitive steering, the memory seat adjustments, the cruise control, and even the car's stereo.

Even if your computers and stereo remain intact, in a great many cases removing the battery burns out the diodes in the alternator, necessitating a new alternator. If disconnecting the battery interferes with the voltage regulator's control voltage input, it's possible for the alternator voltage to go way over the top (I've heard some say hundreds of volts), frying everything.

If you disconnect the battery and the car conks out, you don't know if it conked out due to insufficient alternator current, or whether the resulting transients caused your ECU (the car's computer, which controls fuel mixture, timing, and much more) to spit out bad data, shutting down the car.

Well covered in here too:

http://community.cartalk.com/discussion/2295551/what-happens-if-i-disconnect-the-battery-while-my-car-is-running

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