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Air Flow Meter Woes... (I think)


Guest lan_killa

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Use the ssm program and edit the subaru select O2 address to 1310 and see if the readings are better. If that doesn't get good figures then change it to 1309 and try. Since the 13xx range seems to get most of your figures the O2 will be in that range too.

P.S. The Tarantino did more harm to my head than the cactus did!!

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I wonder why the IPW went to zero. The motor was struggling to keep running so there was some injection happening... unless there was leaking injectors happening? Did it smell rich? Could there be something blocking the intake/ There must be some reason why the IPW went to zero. Whatever the reason, there was still fuel there when it was happening. Have you tried taking the vacumm hose off the fuel regulator and seeing if it smells of fuel? There could be a hole in the regulators diaphram letting fuel get into the manifold.

I see you are getting a different figure for the O2 now. What address is that coming from? That O2 figure should be going up and down all the time once the motor is warm. The only time it shouldn't go up and down is when you have your foot to the floor, or near to the floor.

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Guest boostin

I should add the fact the up-pipe is leaking, so most of the fuel smell will be coming from that. The O2 is before the leak though, so it shouldn't really affect it.

Try that ignitor though. You never know.

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  • 2 weeks later...

See the IPW goes right to zero when the revs die...391-395, 475-477

That's because the car is flooding I would imagine. The IPW is trying to keep the revs up, the timing is retarding because of the low revs, the TPS and AFM are about where they would be.

You really need to get the O2 readings to work to confirm that.

The knock correction isn't working either.

The AFM looks like it's working, especially at revs, but at idle it's lower than it's meant to be. That could be caused by a small air leak which is a relatively large proportion of air flow at idle but only a small proportion of air flow at revs.

Just noticed that your boost solenoid also changes when the revs drop right off. Might be something interesting because it shouldn't change at idle, but those figures there aren't really in the right range anyway.

Did you try those other addresses I suggested a few posts back?

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  • 1 month later...
Guest lan_killa

havnt had a chance to get the logger onto it recently... I have changed the TPS and ECU which has made some difference, but am still having issues. Had had incredibly BIG issues the last couple of weeks espically with the heat, but I have removed the winter covers in an attempt to reduce engine bay temps which seems to have helped a huge deal.

While fiddling with the TPS i noticed that depending on where I adjust it to depends what the boost solenoid does, at what I beleive to be the correct adjustment for it the solenoid does nothing, after a certain point the solenoid sits there clattering away.

Im very certain my issues are related to engine bay heat affecting a sensor/plug/wire, so during the holidays im going to check everyplug etc to make sure theres no dodgy connections. Car is deffinatly flooding when cutting out due to the amount of black smoke i see.

Will try and get the logger back onto it this week... Also have the reset connectors plugged in at the moment as it seems the ecu ignores alot of stuff with them plugged in and runs a whole lot better, as it pretty bad having it cut out at the royal oak round about at 4.30 pm, attempting to restart it 30+ times and then have the starter motor over heat and decide not to work anymore and having to be pushed off the roundabout.

actually... just had a thought.... could a dodgy negative terminal on the battery be causing these issues?

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Guest lan_killa

i think my issue is more that the previous owner fitted a battery with square terminals... and the clamp on the negative lead is absolute shit

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