GT with 2 Problem - Your Ideas?

[Bazza-NZ]

Hey

2 Problems, not sure if they are related or not... probably not

1st Problem

Suddenly my car has started to surge at low rev with a little bit of load, its occurs around the 2,000-3,000RPM mark, once the turbo kicks in she is away,.. It does it in every gear and is starting to annoy me a little now. 1st gear is the worst but I'm assuming that is to do with the short ratio.. it feels like i am jumping on the throttle then jumping off it again if that makes any sense - Code 52 is all i get

This only happens when i have the manual ECU in the car, my car use to be an auto and doesn't surge with the auto ECU in

possible items you can think of?

2nd Problem

It still doesn't start well. still takes ages to start but will start after cranking over, I have replaced:

Fuel Pump + in tank and in line filters

New Battery

Battery Terminals and added 2 extra grounds

Square box by boost controller (forgot what it is called right now)

Still takes a while to start, starter motor cranks fine and giving it a bit of a whack doesn't help.. Car will start fine after its been running for a decent amount of time [engine hot]

AND

Starts perfectly fine if i leave it sitting for 1 - 1.5 days.. so if i leave it for a while hop in it the next day or so it will fire over first time

Any ideas on this issues

I'm getting some parts tonight to see if they fix it.. they are

oxygen sensor

AFM

set of coils

Maybe i am missing something??? i'm lost at this stage i have replaced most of the usual stuff but still just will not start easily, am i missing something

[Guest keltik]

Try starting with your foot flat on the floor. Coolant temp sensor points to starting issues. Id stick with the Auto ECU. On a BC it doesnt make a whole lot of difference which one you use does it? Mine ran fine for a long time using the Auto.

Throwing new parts at it without stopping to think first is just going to cost you money and not get anywhere.

[funkytown]

1st problem.. can you get a voltage reading on your TPS, mine was hunting in the same range, and its becuase the tps was dying.

when on constant trottle the voltage is bumping up and down slightly making the ecu respond by increasing/decreasing the fueling thus making it hunt/surge.

lucky for me the link gives you the voltage readings directly.

* I think its the TPS, either way im referring to the little black device on the right hand side of the manifold right next to the throttle body (on a V3). ((i know it swapped sides in the version 5/6)) (((unsure on the BC legacys where its located))).

Problem 2 -

could also be TPS, mines a **** to start cold as well.

TPS is a bitch to set in the correct position im faily certain - you have to remove the IDC and the intercooler to get to it. then adjust to get the right voltage readings at idle.(on a factory ecu).

The link is much easier to do - So Rick tells me.

[Bazza-NZ]

 keltik']

Try starting with your foot flat on the floor. Coolant temp sensor points to starting issues. Id stick with the Auto ECU. On a BC it doesnt make a whole lot of difference which one you use does it? Mine ran fine for a long time using the Auto.

Throwing new parts at it without stopping to think first is just going to cost you money and not get anywhere.

Only switched over the ECU as trying to fix the starting problem... i find that i get better fuel efficiency with the Manuel in that i did with the auto

[quote name='funkytown said:

1st problem.. can you get a voltage reading on your TPS, mine was hunting in the same range, and its becuase the tps was dying.

when on constant trottle the voltage is bumping up and down slightly making the ecu respond by increasing/decreasing the fueling thus making it hunt/surge.

lucky for me the link gives you the voltage readings directly.

* I think its the TPS, either way im referring to the little black device on the right hand side of the manifold right next to the throttle body (on a V3). ((i know it swapped sides in the version 5/6)) (((unsure on the BC legacys where its located))).

Problem 2 -

could also be TPS, mines a **** to start cold as well.

TPS is a bitch to set in the correct position im faily certain - you have to remove the IDC and the intercooler to get to it. then adjust to get the right voltage readings at idle.(on a factory ecu).

The link is much easier to do - So Rick tells me.

Hmm i've got a multi-meter will investigate this tonight and see if it will make a difference

[THUNDA]

2nd problem likely to be temp sensor but could also be a leaky injector releasing the pressurised fuel in the fuel lines into one of the cylinders, which would explain why if yoiu left it over a few days it would start first pop because that leaked fuel would have evapourated

[Bazza-NZ]

 THUNDA said:

2nd problem likely to be temp sensor but could also be a leaky injector releasing the pressurised fuel in the fuel lines into one of the cylinders, which would explain why if yoiu left it over a few days it would start first pop because that leaked fuel would have evapourated

Was thinking about this actually, is there any way i can test without taking everything off?

Will do temp sensor as its a lot easier to do

[Guest boostin]

My money is on coolant temp sensor or leaking injector/s.

[THUNDA]

not really any way to check a leaking injector without taking it out, its easy to check if the injector is working (stethescope / skrewdriver to ear way) but you'll need to take the injectors out and get them cleaned in a high frequency cleaning thingy, or just get some 2nd hand ones, probably gona be the same price but its a bit of a risk buying 2nd hand injectors i rekon

[THUNDA]

thats IF its not temp sensor, it is very likely to be temp sensor though, they can cause all sorts of dramas when they crap out

[Bazza-NZ]

replaced the coolent sensor but still no luck.. i have managed to pick up a set of second hand injectors so will be putting them in sometime in the weekend to see if that helps... i'm hoping as i'm running out of ideas and things to replace / test

TPS sensor i still need to test yet

Surging has gone, replaced AFM, 1 coil using the eye-meter inspections and O2 sensor so that seem to have fixed it for sure

so just down to the starting issue now

[Guest jakesternz]

 THUNDA said:

thats IF its not temp sensor, it is very likely to be temp sensor though, they can cause all sorts of dramas when they crap out

what are the symptoms of a failing temp sensor?

A fluxtuating temp reading?

[Bazza-NZ]

 jakesternz']

[quote name='THUNDA said:

thats IF its not temp sensor, it is very likely to be temp sensor though, they can cause all sorts of dramas when they crap out

/quote]

what are the symptoms of a failing temp sensor?

A fluxtuating temp reading?

with my experience with temp sensor, they either work or don't

fluctuating temp reading could be due to a number of different things such as:

Air in the cooling system

Ground wire not secure

Plug not connect fully

For a start I'd try re-bleeding the cooling system and see if that helps

[Bazza-NZ]

Since this has been brought back out from the dead fixes for both if anyone else experices any of the above problems

Problem 1 = AFM dieing causing an overfull during low rev, which then the car struggled to pull itself along (semi related to problem 2)

Problem 2 = Bad starting due to a number of leaky injectors, would overfuel the car all the time, 90 bucks got me just under 300km a tank most time

[funkytown]

so your back running 100% now?

[Bazza-NZ]

 funkytown said:

so your back running 100% now?

Yup RS is all good now, running yellows on 15PSI, just need to get a TD05 and should make things interesting ;D

[Guest jakesternz]

 keltik said:

Try starting with your foot flat on the floor. Coolant temp sensor points to starting issues. Id stick with the Auto ECU. On a BC it doesnt make a whole lot of difference which one you use does it? Mine ran fine for a long time using the Auto.

Throwing new parts at it without stopping to think first is just going to cost you money and not get anywhere.

I having similar issues. Tried starting with foot flat on the floor and it started and stalled?!?!?!?

Any ideas now?

[Guest jakesternz]

 Bazza-NZ']

[quote name='THUNDA said:

thats IF its not temp sensor, it is very likely to be temp sensor though, they can cause all sorts of dramas when they crap out

/quote]

what are the symptoms of a failing temp sensor?

A fluxtuating temp reading?

with my experience with temp sensor, they either work or don't

fluctuating temp reading could be due to a number of different things such as:

Air in the cooling system

Ground wire not secure

Plug not connect fully

For a start I'd try re-bleeding the cooling system and see if that helps

Its not a huge flux, but does go up and down a bit. I will check for these problems.

Where should the TEMP gauge be sitting during normal operation?

[kamineko]

just as a note, i've suffered similar cruise idle hunting issues.. instantly came right for me when i cleaned the connection to the TPS.

also pull your manifold earth point off and brush it up (while car off haha.. dont ask )

[Guest jakesternz]

this normal operating tempreature?

[1994legacyrs]

Looks about right to me

[Guest keltik]

Mine sits exactly between those 2 marks and no matter what i do - it doesnt move at all. Its a H6 tho...

[Bazza-NZ]

 keltik said:

Mine sits exactly between those 2 marks and no matter what i do - it doesnt move at all. Its a H6 tho...

Same here on my non fancy gauge, about half way or just a little under the half way mark

fancy gauge is dependant on what i'm doing with the car at the time

Highway driving = 65-70oC

Town driving = 80-90oC

then after turning the car off it spikes a little to about 95oC