BD5: Idle bouncy

[log1call]

Yes Ego, and it's true of several of the trouble codes. They are all just aids to diagnosis.

The O2 can be set by an air cleaner beiing blocked, or a fuel filter being blocked.

The knock sensor can be set by oil burning, piston rattles, bad fuel.. the list goes on.

The trick is to look at which codes are set, what sort of driving or condition sets them, whether they can be reproduced repeatedly, whether they are likely to cause or be the results of other codes.

Then you need to systematicly and methodicaly work through them checking and ticking them off the list, clearing codes and test drivig between every process.

It's also worth mentioning that most manufacturers attempt to put the trouble codes in order of both likelyhood of being the fault and ease of testing . It's not always trustworthy but they reccommend doing the lowest numbered codes first. It always pays to have a think about it though because sometimes the code most likely to cause other codes, is the hardest to test for.

[THUNDA]

thanks, yeah read the idle control setting thing in D.I.Y, very helpful, read the fuel pump one too just to gain my knowledge up.

will try all this jazz tomorrow

as for tonight ill remember to dissconnect the battery

[log1call]

Ha, yeah well every time I reread that it sounds more complicated. The simple gist of it though is that if the idle control valve is at the end of it's travel trying to keep the idle speed right, it will be slow to respond and the revs will surge and be erratic.

[THUNDA]

reset the computer last night

took the IDC off in the morning, the unit itself was fine, but i noticed the pin the sticks out of the mechanical part was very hard to turn, some WD-40 and alot of twisting it back and forth and now it glides normally, put it back together, set the idle, no more check engine light and perferct idle! yay

[Bazza-NZ]

 THUNDA said:

reset the computer last night

took the IDC off in the morning, the unit itself was fine, but i noticed the pin the sticks out of the mechanical part was very hard to turn, some WD-40 and alot of twisting it back and forth and now it glides normally, put it back together, set the idle, no more check engine light and perferct idle! yay

Glad you got it sorted, and a fairly easy fix there as well

[log1call]

Good work.

[Guest]

well done

[gtlegacy]

damn cos i have the samne problem now as well i bought a 2nd hand 1 that hasnt been adjusted or anything and put it on my car and the idle going up and down from 800 to 2000 rpm and then revs at 2400 and goes back to a normal idle

i swapped it because my other idle controller when you first start it up revs to 1800 then goes down to normal idle after about 40secs when cold back to 750 which seems a bit weird and randomly revs to 1800rpm and then just drops back or somtime you have to stab it ?

i tried cleaning and pulled the top off my orginal one and it was chipped and it think i bumped the slkider par as well when i pulled off the car to clean

anyone in chch that can help me with this?

[Guest boostin]

You don't pull the top off them to clean them!!

Get some upper engine cleaner and spray it into where the large air pipe connects to.

Let it soak and clean out all the carbon and crap.

[gtlegacy]

ok is there a specific way to put them back together? as i tried to put it back how it came off on the first one was about 1/2 open

[DRFVDR]

*Shakes Head*

[log1call]

Look here.... http://endwrench.com/images/pdfs/ISCSpring04.pdf

Lot's of good articles at the end wrench site guys, just search the archives.