95 LEGACY GT BOOST PROBLEMS

[Guest]

Well my 95 legacy just had the turbos checked over and they were fine, however it was boosting 12 1st and 16 2nd and has now droped to 7psi for both what could be causing this?

[Koom]

If you're not careful it's about to blow up in a great big firey ball..........

If you don't believe me, search through the tech sections and the Legacy part of this webiste and report back if you find any other reasons for lack of boost.

[Guest]

so what could be causing this..?

[Guest]

hey team,

i v got exactly the same problem... my turbos used to boost 10 and 12 psi but now they have locked at 7psi.

Checked the ECU codes and it told me 22.. got a price from winger of $168 for knock sensor.

Is this what is causing is, or is it the boost solenoid....any help appreciated.

[Guest]

system is in fail safe mode

carry out clear memory proceedure and your boost will return ( for a short time )

Prob could be knock sensor or actuall detonation itself !!

Many things can cause your issue , from wrong fuel to failing AFM (causing lean out det )

Best to get it checked properly by some who knows what they are doing or you may well join the BEB club

[Guest]

 quicksub said:

Well my 95 legacy just had the turbos checked over and they were fine, however it was boosting 12 1st and 16 2nd and has now droped to 7psi for both what could be causing this?

16 is way too much boost for a TT or that era !

[Guest]

i took it to the subaru dealer and he believes its the knock sensor. but something inside me says it has nothing to do with it.

cleared the codes, got the engine running for about 10 mins and went to fail safe again.

The check engine light stays on while the car is cold and as soon as it warms up, it goes back to normal, but still in fail safe. is this telling me something in particular ?

[DRFVDR]

If the Subaru Dealer says it is a Knock Sensor then there is a high chance that is what it is....(they are known to fail)

But as ichi Ban said it could also be a AFM, or wrong fuel...

[Guest]

 preet said:

i took it to the subaru dealer and he believes its the knock sensor. but something inside me says it has nothing to do with it.

cleared the codes, got the engine running for about 10 mins and went to fail safe again.

The check engine light stays on while the car is cold and as soon as it warms up, it goes back to normal, but still in fail safe. is this telling me something in particular ?

too funny, really is too funny...... sounds like you justdont want to spend $$ to fix it

you've had professional advice and dont accept it

may you could try changing the flux capacitor and see how it goes

I'm sure the dealers are doing specials on these this month, give them a call and ask

[Guest itsgotgo]

AHHHHH the famous flux capacitor,lots of them being sold before xmas

[Durty-Sanchez]

Knock sensor code is thrown for one reason only (according to the firmware).. it doesn't like the signal it's getting, if it's getting one at all. Patch in to your knock sensor and listen to it.. I bet it'll either be dead, or the signal will have big silent patches in it. Once the ECU has decided it hates the knock sensor it 'tards the timing big time and you have a dog of a car to drive. They're fairly generic sensors though (Ichi can correct me on this), so maybe pick-a-part would be better if you're wanting a cheaper option? In any case.. i'd replace it, there's not much else that can cause that code to be thrown.

Ichi - are there any differences between turbo and non-turbo knocksensors?

[Guest]

 Ichi Ban']

[quote name='preet said:

i took it to the subaru dealer and he believes its the knock sensor. but something inside me says it has nothing to do with it.

cleared the codes, got the engine running for about 10 mins and went to fail safe again.

The check engine light stays on while the car is cold and as soon as it warms up, it goes back to normal, but still in fail safe. is this telling me something in particular ?

/quote]

too funny, really is too funny...... sounds like you justdont want to spend $$ to fix it

you've had professional advice and dont accept it

may you could try changing the flux capacitor and see how it goes

I'm sure the dealers are doing specials on these this month, give them a call and ask

no... already on way to purchase it.... it was $168 for a genuine one.... think that is pretty reasonable .....

.....i told him the code was saying knock sensor and he said yup....thats the problem.... no real diagnosis..... so got a bit worried..... just intended to get 2nd opnion....

the check engine light goes out when the car warms up.(has been doing so for a couple of months)..... just wanted to know if this was a common issue and if this might be causing it/and if someone else has had this issue. im going to get the work done so thought if it were another little sensor somewhere, or coils packs/plugs then id get them in the same run.

cheers for help. appreciate it

[Guest]

knock sensor just arrived....

$130 genuine subaru one ..... cant wait to fix and drive my car properly again.... haha

by the way , is it much work changing this ?

.... i have changed the water temp sensor/plugs with success. Just wish to learn about my car and save money at the same time.

and i have another 98 RSB to work on once my 95RS is sold.

[Durty-Sanchez]

It's in an interesting spot, but not too hard if you have nimble woman pleasing hands.. you'll need to remove the intercooler and look down between the throttle body and the idle valve. Might pay to remove the coolant hoses if you need more room. In any case, you'll see it down there bolted on to the block.. g'luck!

[log1call]

Well when car has detonation problems they normally get worse as the car gets warmer. Since your's is getting better when it warms up it is possible that you have some mechanical noise that goe away as the motor warms... piston slap comes to mind. It could be the sensor is faulty too though.

Since you have already bought the part now you may as well fit it, but if it was a car I was working on I would have been checking it for engine wear and knock sensor operation before I started spending money on parts.

An hour spent diagnosing is worth hundreds of dollars in parts.

[GT_Head]

 Ichi Ban said:

16 is way too much boost for a TT or that era !

Really?? Mine does 13-14 and 16-18 depending on where and when and never had a problem in one and half years.... just have a fucked clutch and the standard subaru oil leak feature. Do the GT-B have same bost levels or were the earlier GT's given slightly less stock boost?

Sorry about the highjack!

[Koom]

Early ones have grey injectors and the GTB has the 440cc yellows. The greys normally peak by 15psi on an ej20.

[BC5RA]

 Koom said:

Early ones have grey injectors and the GTB has the 440cc yellows. The greys normally peak by 15psi on an ej20.

Max duty would be 18psi from what I've seen on 380's with a good fuel pump.

I wouldn't run more than 16psi.

[Guest]

hey guys.... thank you for all the help.....

taking out intercooler took about 15 mins, but locating knock sensor was about an 1hour... finally found it.... only because the new one i had bought was for a newer model, and had a different pin......

got it swapped today.... will fix it back in on monday.... will let you guys know of progress

[Guest]

update....

team... got the knock sensor in sweet.... car runs awesome..... boosting back to normal.....

feels good not to have CEL come on .... hahaha....