RaKid

I'm keen to get on a track at some point

Oosh - niiice! Photos ASAP please

Tell us more!

I've used the RainX kit which sounds similar to the kit above, and its great, but the tiny sanding pads clog so quickly it becomes kinda hard to use. I'd consider purchasing 3 big sheets of sandpaper for about $1 each and some headlight sealer. Probably similar price all up but it will last you longer.

How can I price check Partsouq? Do I have to have an account to see the pricing?

Did you resolve this? I've had a similar issue - I dried mine out with a heat gun. Now, why is your TPS getting wet?

No - you can't As @mitch8198 pointed out (and this the glaring elephant in the room) the manifold and heads and all of the sensors are completely different, not to mention the loom. To make this work, simply strip down both engines to a short block and bolt your existing heads to the new short block (I'd recommend new HG's and machining of the heads while you're at it) then refit your manifold and you're good to go.

AFAIK, the Gen 1 Impreza MAP sensor taps out at 1.27 Bar (18.42psi) - so anything above that would mean you're starting to lean out if it wasn't for short term fuel trim. I'm no expert, not even close, but my understanding is that once you've breached the upper limit the ECU only thinks your boost is the upper limit i.e. 1.27 Bar - how or if your O2 sensor can override based on a now lower than expected AFR, I simply don't know. I'd be interested in getting a tuner or someone that knows definitely on this thread to explain the factory behaviour of this - I've always been curious. To answer your questions: I think your down-pipe appears to be over spooling the turbo and the IWG can't flow enough gas through to stop you overshooting I'm not convinced a manual boost controller would do anything but it's a cheap test and then you can correct me and elaborate on the impact to the behaviour you're experiencing I don't know What I can tell you a test that I've personally carried out. From a complete factory set-up I: Removed IWG actuator and replaced with TurboSmart one Patched compressor outlet vacuum directly to IWG vacuum inlet completely by-passing the factory BCS Tested and adjusted my actuator so my boost target was 1.2 bar out of a maximum possible 1.27 bar Why did I do this? So that I could raise the boost without using an EBC or boost tap What did I experience? Rock solid boost with factory spool characteristics with a complete 3" turbo-back exhaust

On a side note, my content sensor measures Gull 10 at 8%

Didn't know I made it so I'll order one - we should message owners whos cars feature next time - can someone link me the ordering instructions please?

Sorry - photos aren't the best but hopefully you get the idea.

Yes Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk

Hey Imroz, Brett here. Josh has loads of the steering wheel shrouds with Lamco boost gauge fittings last time I was there. Shouldn't be too hard to pick one up. Let me know how you go. Sent from my SM-G925I using Tapatalk

How much of a difference did this make? I've been considering installing a kit.

Recommend you stick with the big brands if you care about your engine. I've had both SARD and TurboSmart. I think you can pick up a Tomei Type S for under $200 and a SARD for around the same price. TurboSmart FRP800 about $250. I don't think you'll need anything bigger than that for what you're wanting to achieve (assuming this is going into the V5 yeah?) You'll also want to make sure they come with barb fittings (again, assuming you running push lock / rubber hose with clamps, not braided). Gauges that screw directly into the regulator are typically not included, so budget for around $50 extra for one of those if you need. Additionally, my TurboSmart didn't come with any fittings at all, so that was an extra cost too, maybe extra $20-30. Both times I had my FRP mounted to the manifold with a simple bracket.

New sticker original one looks pretty sad. @Dairusire p/n here incase you need to replace yours too. And also wall mounted my CTEK charger Also filled a small windscreen crack and put a new rego holder on.

Just a moral support comment that I've used very frequently to keep me going in times like this. 'If it was easy, everyone would do it.' Very few people modify cars, so keep going and stick at it.

@lowandy said he would go do it

I'd definitely be interested as this is what Bec and I like to do in the weekends anyway. We did find a nice little spot at Mangawhai heads in the summer, a little tavern on the main strip with nice food iirc. I'm sure I could drag @lowandy along for a cruise or two too.

Here @lowandy

Yes, me. I have the complete kit for sale now on TradeMe here

Phase 2 injectors can be de-capped and have been proven to flow enough fuel for 260kw. They flow roughly 550cc when de-capped. Similar to what non de-capped pinks flow. While you said you're not interested in a top-feed conversion, I have a alternative option which is a Rev D intake manifold, fuel lines, rails, pink injectors, and loom. It utilises the factory V5/6 throttle body and loom, so there's no re-wiring required. Simple bolt-on upgrade and then you'll have loads of injector head room.

Found the issue. Measured each speaker wire's resistance at the loom behind the head unit and both + & - LHF speaker had 1-4 Ohms but should have been open circuit. Pulled speaker and found tabs bent. Bent back and refitted speaker and all working now. Looks like the internal amp shuts down if it sees an earth in the speakers. Problem solved.

Recently upgraded the two front speakers in my GC8. Found some wiring was miss-matched so cut the head unit-to-oem plug loom up and re-soldered every wire, pin for pin correctly. Tested, all OK. Fade and balance all working now correctly. Bass and treble gains all working etc. Car went away to get painted and came back with the head unit powered on but no audio. This was about 2 weeks ago. I finally had some time to pull everything apart today to start investigating. Put a 1.5V AA battery on the speaker to confirm it works - it does. Checked the loom wasn't damaged in any way- no damage. Pulled the front speaker out and plugged in rear of car where I have vacant speaker slots with existing OEM plugs and plugged in. Still no sound. Played around with fade and balance. Checked mute button. Tried different audio sources, etc - nothing works. No sound at all or even vibrations. Check the power fuse on the rear of the head unit. It's fine. (I mean, obviously, because it powers up). But, I'm now at a loss. I get a 6 volt reading on the front and rear plugs both pins - but what does this mean? Old fella recons I should patch my speaker in directly after the head unit plug on a pair of speaker wires and if there is no audio then he recons the head unit it toast. Any help appreciated.

This was interesting to read. I'm not aware of any way you can log with FreeSSM. Additionally, I've heard / read that code 43 is bogus. Not sure if true.