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Showing content with the highest reputation on 08/09/16 in all areas

  1. Changed the wheels, now on some Prodrive GC-010E's
    4 points
  2. Sorry man go fish, I have my BG over 10 years replaced 1x Pump with a walbro 500hp unit & never had issues hopefully someone who know might pop in soon
    2 points
  3. Finally cleaned the RA up the other weekend, and swapped the white bonnet onto it Also fixed the power steering, love driving it again
    2 points
  4. Just in case my car is a write off I have been looking at out backs. Have found a couple I like the look of. http://www.trademe.co.nz/browse/listing.aspx?id=1144462216&/listing?rfm=1 Or http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=1135986770 Any thoughts on these.
    1 point
  5. ClubSub org nz Who's ready for Flat-Nats 2016?! Day 1 Flat Nats. Sprints and Grasskhana starts NOW
    1 point
  6. Fark me that is awesome racing now to figure out where I can watch it
    1 point
  7. I always use the 'unread Content' button, it's just how I use most forums, I find it much easier to read every topic that way.
    1 point
  8. I just have unread content bookmarked. The button is superfluous.
    1 point
  9. Nope we definitely have one maybe two.
    1 point
  10. Fuel pump relay seen in here: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/45370-fuel-pressure/ Relay and wiring in here: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/48315-fuel-pump-kill-switch-install/#comment-603325 The mongoose have options for the immobiliser circuits so will depend how it was installed. But the FP should definitely be priming with ignition on.
    1 point
  11. Thank you Joker, I appreciate the help, I will keep fiddling about and see what I can find. Definately thinking that the fuel pump should be priming before starting, and the pump runs with engine on, so I think there's a relay not activating or something! Pity the weather sucks here today, hailstones aren't pleasant when you need to fix the car! :-D
    1 point
  12. nah but pull each one individually & check them, they might look good so run test light over them or continuity tester, some fuses behind kck panel by your feet to & the ones in engine bay
    1 point
  13. OK, it turns out to be a Mongoose M60 pre 2009 model with the 2 button remotes, 2009-2011 had 3 button remotes, if that helps any.
    1 point
  14. Well it turns out mine is exactly the same fuse cover as your 1998 BG5 Legacy. From what I can find on internet (from looking at remote) it's a Mongoose alarm with the code N4096 Z333 on the remote, which according to Google is a remote for either an M60 or M80 Mongoose alarm. The immobiliser is definately working, as you need to press the remote a second time (with key in ignition) to turn off immobiliser. Did you ever find a fuse diagram for your BG5?
    1 point
  15. sweet care to elaborate on the brand of Alarm? (might be sensitive info on the internet & all but some are simply shit & other have known issues)
    1 point
  16. Fuses ENGLISH! thread here << click it searching for the relay on the forums isnt coming up with any results currently specifically this post
    1 point
  17. Just did that Joker, thanks. It idled the same but I got a Check Engine light pop up, plugged it back in and the Check Engine light disappeared. It doesn't sound like the fuel pump is priming before starting, at least I can't hear it over the noisy electric aerial. Folded back seat down and pulled up carpet, still didn't hear fuel pump. It runs fine when engine is running but it doesn't seem to be priming. Any idea where the Fuel Pump Relay fuse is? My fuse box is in Japanese and I can't find anything about the Pump Relay, other than it's a green plug under the dashboard...
    1 point
  18. AFM? / Try unplugging it make any difference / run better? if its bung it will make it run like poos
    1 point
  19. Will have one incoming for an '02 EZ30D Lancaster 6 Outback soon-ish.
    1 point
  20. Here you go, found you something CLICKY CLICKY!
    1 point
  21. I have a feeling th car will be a write off. Looks like the chasis could be damaged. The tow bar was on a bit of an angle! Might be time to look at the outbacks.
    1 point
  22. I couldn't find a how to on this, so thought I would try my hand as I was already taking photos on to remind myself. I know they're some of the easier things to do and most on here will know how, but hopefully it will help someone. It's a very easy job to change the pads in these, so time to get stuck in. What you will need; ⦁ Set of Pads (obviously) Bendix - DB1170, TRW - GDB1006 ⦁ Jack That's pretty much it for what I consider mandatory, but I'd recommend also having; ⦁ Jack Stands ⦁ A set of needle nose pliers ⦁ A can of brake clean ⦁ Anti Seize So before we start, get the front up in the air and the wheels off. If you have stands use them. You won't be going under the car, but better safe then sorry! Hope thats good enough. I have other pictures, but I tried to condense it down, so if you think there's a step that needs explanation let me know. And yes, i know I did number 3 twice
    1 point
  23. is this for a gc8 joker?
    1 point
  24. that first pic is compatible with the Gen1 legacy and V1-V3 imprezas. original pic came from my impreza
    1 point


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