Firenza

From the looks and the part numbers, the red struts are off a V7 STi with a chassis code of GDB-4EH. If the rear right one matches the fronts it should be OE part # 20360FE000 The black one is from a 2004+ Forester STi with a chassis code of SG9-5EH So given one shocks off a Forester, and the others appear to be off a STI Sedan, id say they wont be helping your car handle too well AFAIK the struts can be regreased, but not rebuilt. If theyre knocking, its something people have done at home, but given that you've only got part of a set I wouldn't bother I've had a look at all the available Teins for an 04 Forester, and none of them appear to match the numbers you've got. Do they have Tein logos on them? Dobinson make green springs too, but their part numbers differ from what you put as well. https://www.tein.co.jp/srch/eng_search.php?maker=SUBARU&carmodel=FORESTER&modelyear=default&item=default&restype=5&allvch=1

Err...... I think you need to check it again. Its got everything up to the BL/BP in the Legacies http://a15ff11300g.sakura.ne.jp/catalogue/catalogue.html

I tend to keep my cars. Once I've decided that i'm keeping it, then thats pretty much it. I've been driving for over a decade now, and of all the cars ive had i have only sold 2. My Legacy is a good example, its not worth a lot, but I bought it on a whim off trademe, and It suits me quite well. It was pretty crappy looking when I got it, and I've spent a fair amount on replacing parts which I know I'd never really get back if I sold it. Given the time and effort i've put towards it, I'd hate to come across it ruined a year later, knowing that all hard work and effort was wasted. Part of the Riflemans Creed from the movie Full Metal Jacket springs to mind "There are many like it, but this one is mine"

I think youll want to have the front bar in again pretty soon. I upgraded to an adjustable whiteline one in rear of my BF5, and while much better, its was a strange thing having a real boaty front end, even with the rear bar set at its softest setting it would be rather tail happy! Id assume the BC5 RS would have a stiffer front bar then my GT, so you might be alright. I ended up getting a front bar off a v6 RA Sti someone had spare, and its a lot more neutral

the steel arms look like this, I had them before I swapped to alloy arms

Again, id love to, but my cars 26 years old. I'd feel bad wasting their time

So I cant talk about this from an official stand point, but I've dealt with this before while at work! While whiteline lists those front kits for Alloy Arms, that information is incorrect. Now i've talked with Red Ranger, who operate both nolathane and whiteline a while ago about this, and it seems they *have* changed it, but only on their Nolathane system (which is what I was talking to them about at the time) However, the links are the same units regardless of brand, just with the different brands of polyurethane bush installed. If you do want the ball type joints, the whiteline links are thicker then standard, and in theory allow you to add more tension to the bar, standard ones would probably be fine. You can get a similar threaded link (just not as thick as the whiteline ones) from places like BNT. part number would be LR** where ** is the center to center of the ball joints. They look like these; So yea, id probably change them as even with the washers, you could end up forcing the bush out of the link with enough use and force!

I would stick with the bilsteins personally. The KYBs are a good shock, but they are just a normal shock, as in they aren't sports oriented. The advantage with the bilsteins is that they can be rebuilt. I depends on what you want from the car really. If you want something new but sports oriented, KYB AGXs or Konis are a good bet, but given you already have the billies I would just use those! Top hats would probably be fine. Check for cracking in the rubber, and that the bearing is still smooth. I changed mine, but then i wanted everything on my car to be new, as my car is 26 years old

As long as you have a cap of the same pressure you should be fine, however i would think you would need to make sure it's a non recovery cap as your over flow would run off the coolant tank. Did the radiator you get have two fittings on the bottom that you ended up not using?

also........ both motul and TRD fluids are made by Orthene Chemicals in the UK, which is also the same supplier that BNT has! If you get a bottle of BNTs Racing DOT4 and compare it has essentailly the same ratings and temps as the Motul RBF600 (BNT = dry boiling point 315deg, MOTUL = dry boiling point 312deg)

http://a15ff11300g.sakura.ne.jp/catalogue/BCBFlegacy/1992.08 legacy touringwagon STI/1992.08 legacy touringwagon STI.html Thats the only STi branded BF they made IIRC, mostly standard bar a alcantara interior that was then put into the GT-S2 wagons along with some bolt on STi bits. Engine wise it made the same 220ps as the RS-R

I've already done this one, admittedly a fair few years ago The new ones technically on another road, so did it again! Kingsway Road on the way to Herald Island New one!

With a little "help" from my mates I found this one, Buckey Ave, Hobsonville New one;

well, I'm stuck. Is it some kind of substation? I've been through all off the ones I can find, and nothing matches The pictures seem to be taken about 30mins apart, (unless your dabbling in Photoshop Elements broke something!) but I havent found much to go on

That's the wrong one unfortunately.

Resene Westgate, 15a Kakano Road, Westgate Well that one was cryptic! I recognized the Resene paint spill logo, but could of sworn i could see the sign on the front looking like a Hirepool logo! That mixed with the roadworks and fancy light posts made me think new development, After checking the local ones, I finally gave up on that and checked out Resene, with the Westgate one being the only new build. Tried checking that only to find out that the road its on is too new and not on Google maps yet! Decided to take a punt as given it is new, and only a little bit away from where the old one and voila! So if were gonna be less obvious, then heres a cryptic one for you all!

OLD; Vector Arena NEW;

The only ones I know of are the Whiteline ones, but they're uprated for lowered cars http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA313&sq=24659

I used to work for a firm installing these, usually they're a fairly simple system. There should be a control unit with 4 connectors, 2 go to sensors, 1 is the power/signal and the other is for the speaker. Normally this is tucked into a crevice in the boot and stuck with a velco pad. The signal wire should be spliced into the reverse lights to give power. Finally find the speaker and trace the cable back. You could just cut it but if it were me id rather get ALL the wiring out then just do half a job. Some systems also have a display, these are just connected to the control unit just like the speaker, so again, trace the wire back to the control unit and remove the module. All in all, its not too complex a system, the hardest part is going to be finding the control unit, but if you start at the sensors and trace it you should find in in no time.

what are you replacing the head unit with? If youre buying a new aftermarket unit then you wont need a band expander as the the new one will already be able to receive NZ frequencies. If youre going to fit a replacement OEM one then make sure it came out of a NZ new car, as the JDM units can only receive 76-90 MHz so would need an band expander.

My Legacy was made in 1991, and worth even less and yet if someone damaged my car like that i'd be fuming. But hey, at least to you 5k is pocket change.

I went hunting for a noise and found this! Still have a noise though

I hope it is, as its only like 6 years old, otherwise ill give you $50 for it Zenki

I hate to say it, but probably head gaskets. I've had it happen before and am currently dealing with a ej25 with the exact same issue. See if you have someone who can do a hydrocarbon test (not a tee Kay test, those are useless on subies) that will at least give you a definitive answer.

probably not for normal around town stuff, I wouldnt go own brand but I'm running a ryco one on the Legacy GT I daily, but for the cost difference I'd rather not have the chance it goes wrong on my WRX. I know the genuine Tokyo-Roki ones have metal end caps on either end of the filter media, where as some of the aftermarket (Fram espcially!) have card end caps.