Tony

yeah for sure, mostly smooth on the track (apart from hitting the odd ripple strip or off-track excursion!). My lines are secured with p-clips & cable ties to prevent them falling down onto the headers and making contact. When I originally plumbed it all up I was a bit sketched out by it as I really didn't want the lines that close to the headers, but everything always tends to be a compromise on damn subarus so it just ended up that way.

I run my lines out the front of the block, up and over the headers and haven't had any problems. I guess it depends how much space you have between the headers and the block though, as some tend to sit up a lot higher. The lines have that Earls heat sleeve over them for extra protection, and there is also a bit of an air-gap so nothing is actually touching the headers themselves. They have been this way for 6 years or so and are still fine. I will try and get a pic when I can if you are still stuck...

Check out http://www.adrenalinr.com/ Best mufflers/resonators you will find in NZ for flow & noise reduction.

Gives you more "race car pointz" lol No real advantage, although, yes, I'd say it is marginally lighter since there is less piping.

Don't have any pics sorry (just took my car off stands tonight too!). But mine exits just in front of the LH rear wheel. Super easy to make, mines basically 3" straight, with an Adrenalin R centre muffler (best flowing and best muffling if you want to keep within noise restrictions), a 60 deg bend towards the side of the car, then just before the sill it splits to 2 x 2.5" pipes for the exit.

Just a warning in case you haven't checked yet, but unfortunately Syntrax is "crack money" too.

Andy I am just waiting to hear back from them about a definition file for your car. We will be in touch as soon as we have an answer

If you fit roll centre adjusters you also need to take into consideration what you are going to do with the tie rod ends, as fitting RCAs alone results in quite bad bump steer (worse depending on how tall the RCAs actually are).

Nah, you would have worked it out correctly. The higher the offset, the more the wheels will sit in-board, hence my +48 at 8.5 wide having minimal clearance to the strut (on the rear), so that's why I used the 3mm spacer. Higher offset also means less wheel/tyre sitting out from the guards so easier to make them fit before having to use flares/widebody etc. Anything over 8.5" wide on a GC8 is going to have to be lower offset (generally in the 30s) otherwise you do run into the inner clearance issues. So yeah, if your new wheels offset is +35, then you will fine for inner clearance, and just have to worry about outer clearance.

haha, yeah no pics as its not quite finished yet, plus only just finished fixing crash damage. Cars still on stands and I cant put it on the ground since I don't even have a full set of tyres fitted to the rims at this stage (only have one I borrowed to set the car up with, check clearance etc). Soon hopefully...

For what it's worth, I was running 17x8.5 +48 with 240 slicks on my car. Had to run a 3mm slip-on spacer in the rear to clear the strut (well it did clear without the spacer, but only just, like 2mm!, so chucked the spacer on for a little more room). My rear guards were pumped out as much as possible before they started looking like sh*t (all folded and wavy etc) and I ended up with no contact with the guards - although I was running far more than road car camber (-3 in the rear), so with less camber it may be a bit harder to get the clearance you need with standard guards. Fronts are easy enough to pull out, and I ground the inner lip off to make some extra room - plus running -4.5 camber helps (again, prob not ideal for a road car though). I am now running 18x9 +20 (again with 240 slicks) and they sit out of the guards a whole lot more so have got bolt on flares to get around that problem (along with a bit of cutting & welding in the rear to get the required clearance).

98 Type R has R180 rear end, so the rear Brembo calipers and rotors will bolt on fine (as long as the 04 discs are 5x100).

Send me a pm with your email and I am happy to send you my maps, otherwise Matt will have a stock pile of different ones to send too.

LOL Ah yeah that's right Sam - I forgot about that! The old back track event many a year ago (my memory's not what it used to be!)

Actually, Manfeild hahaha "e" before "i" I guess I must be too much of a good c**t, as I remember when I first met Luke (Sl8r) at Manfeild his car ran a bearing and he was trapped there with no way to get back down to Welly, feeling sorry for him, I borrowed a trailer and towed him back!

Honestly, Josh & his Dad know what they're talking about (they have a LOT of combined experience in suspension/motorsport set-up etc). I also questioned the spring set-up when I was looking into new suspension. I ended up running my car according to his recommendation/settings - all I can say is the car is amazing now. So much so, that I actually dropped 0.7 of a second off my previous PB lap time at my home track with the suspension being the only change made to the car since the last time I drove it at that track. The car pretty much felt effortless to drive, and a lot more compliant than it was previously. My data logs confirm the gains at certain corners when compared to previous sessions. A lot of people kept telling me that having proper (race spec) suspension in the car is worth as much as a second off lap times and I didn't quite believe that at first, but I can verify that now So basically, what I am saying is to trust what Josh recommends - as it has worked for me.

How much are all the options you are looking at? Personally, there is no better value for money suspension than the MCA Blue/X/Red series and you know you are getting a QUALITY product. The MCA Blue series will be fine for what you want and will most likely come in around the same price as BC/D2. If you want to step up a little more, then the X Series has few extra features and higher end valving (specific to what discipline you require), then there is the Red Series which is for more race specific applications. Check them out: http://www.mcasuspension.com/, and drop them an email with any questions. Josh & Luke are super helpful - plus the aussie vs NZ dollar is pretty good currently.

I just cabled tied mine to the radiator support (through those clip tabs), then drilled a hole in the corner where it meets the guard, and used a screw to hold it in place (with a rubber bush behind the cover to stop it from being tightened right down and cracking).

Yeah Loren, unfortunately there are viscous R180s floating around - I discovered this after buying an R180 from a Ver. 7 (when I put the 6 speed in my car), and wondering why it was real sh*t lol!!! I ended up using the 3.9 CWP from that diff and swapping it onto my original (4.44) R180, then while it was apart set it up with some thicker plates to tighten it up.

The V5-6 (TY754) boxes are also a bit "meatier" in the casings with more ribs added. With a TY752 (v1-4) and 754 next to each other its quite noticeable.

Geeeeez, I've been around for aaaaaages. I signed up to CS in 2002!!! At the time I had a 93 V1 WRX, then later that year I got my V4 STI RA which is the same car I still own!!! Time flies...

I saw both of them tonight - the grey one looks a lot better in person than it does in the pics (my cousin-in-law owns it) - really good colour choice for it.

The Adrenalin R louvered baffle mufflers certainly do a good job. I recently fitted one of their centre resonators to my race car and the noise difference was definitely noticeable, my neighbour doesn't complain when I start my car up anymore lol!. No power loss either with the larger baffled resonator (we did a before & after on the dyno).

Yep, that's the ones

Speedflow make restrictors which fit into the top of -3 and -4 flare fittings. They are a small alloy piece which sits down inside the fitting. It's an easy way to add a restrictor without welding and drilling the fitting. I have a -4 line to my turbo and use one of these restrictors in my set-up with no issues. I will try and find the part number if you are keen on going that way?