Andy_Mac

Yeah it fits, try find one that came with throttle as the inlet is slightly different as there is no longer the IACV to deal with. Getting a full later model one will also give you top feed TGV’s and rails and all that which can make things simpler. Someone was selling one on FB just yesterday fully dressed with everything.

Facebook groups will be better for finding used stuff at decent prices. Join a few Legacy related ones and you’ll find something reasonably quickly.

@Dairusire First time i’ve come across someone with the same awesome Wiha screwdriver, possibly my second favourite thing in my toolbag.

Possible it was too big? It's still easier to use a hosting site I feel

This is my old one, it might help somewhat, it had a slightly weird pipe run as I still had the secondary air pump at the time

He’s been having a rough time on FB trying to sell it aye. I really don't get why he thinks it is worth that much more than every other 3rd gen out there.

It controls ’requested torque’ which can be used to set various boost levels to an extent.

They could have added some spice to the old Isle of Man style car and a big lift and it would have looked miles better

@Loren it is quite a fugly looking thing, dunno why so many people are gushing over it. All of Blocks ones have been super aggressive while still actually looking good.

I'm sure it'll be just like every other performance Subaru and have a trash tune from the factory that could do with some loving to keep things running safely.

Chris at Prestige in Petone would be a worthwhile drive to get a good tune done.

Ahh I get ya now, so it's giving engine torque from the axles to bypass any multiplications from gear/diff ratios but doesn't attempt to give any guesstimated drivetrain loss factor to give a true figure at the engine

Yeah I know wheel power will be considerably lower than flywheel/engine power. Just never considered they would apply connection factors to give engine torque as the standard torque figure

Do all dynapack dyno’s do it that way? So you’d be essentially getting wheel kw and flywheel torque on the readout?

So what is the oil level on the dipstick when warm currently? Easiest thing to do would be to get in there and clean it up as much as you can then go for a drive and try narrow down the leak again. Could be the turbo oil drain too, they often start leaking down the back of the engine and can be misdiagnosed as something else as they can be a bit hard to inspect on some models.

It's getting up there but the EJ20x/y should be fine. Some have gone higher without issue and others have ruined them with much less power. None of the flanges will line up so you’ll need to modify your uppipe to suit the new flange plus your downpipe, comp side will be all wrong too so some customisation will be needed there too. Then just support brackets and oil/coolant supply The stock turbo spool is about as good as you’ll ever get as it is a tiny twinscroll turbo, this will definitely be slower.

I've committed to putting the good stuff from the Legacy into the STI so the new set up will be: Sony AX5500 HU Rockford Fosgate P400X4 amp Polk MM651 front speakers Polk MM6501 rear speakers Plus a but tonne of sound deadener and closed cell foam Maybe an under seat sub at some point if I decide it's still lacking in that department.

Pretty crazy for Japan to be canning it too. They have got rather bloated in the last few generations though. I'm sure the WRX/Levorg’s are about the same size as 3rd gen Legacy’s, maybe even 4ths...

You could assume so, plus most of us aren't in the new Subaru buying market so by the time they're in a price bracket most NZ’ers go for they’ll be here as grey imports anyway.

That's super messed. Wonder if those one's @calebwrx is selling will fit

True, was thinking about how I did it a few months back but replaced spark plugs at the same time

You'll be surprised at how hard those digits are to read when dirty and unless straight on. This is what mine looked like

Better off going OEM. Which side is it that needs doing?

Try shine something brighter on that nameplate on the comp cover. It can be super hard to read at an angle like that sometimes. It looks like there might be some very light indentations on it.

Nah not a lot. Intake bits on drivers side and battery on passenger side so you're not fighting for room. You’ll need various length socket extensions and a flex joint as it can be a bit difficult to get the socket in the spark plug hole until you work out the right lengths for everything. Have you bought the parts yet?