Andy_Mac

It won't be an easy swap to anything else. Everything is slightly different to a comparable year sti. An 01 will need a speed signal from the trans which later ones take from the ABS system instead so you need to install the sensor for that also. Those rear axles are weird ones with r180 size on the inside and r160 on the outside

Probably better off trying on FB for something like this. Subi Mann or Matt Hull amongst others will probably know all the little differences. If it has pink top feeds it’ll be a rev D but besides that I've got no idea if there are any differences between a manual and auto one, some years did have mildly different compression ratio’s between auto’s and manual’s though

Yea do that. That's what I did on the Legacy one, previously had a brass elbow in the hole. Always passed the leak checks even with just a cable tie on it rather than a proper clamp.

Find a bolt slightly larger than the hole and thread tape the s*** out of it, screw it in and hose clamp it in place

Decatted stock downpipe K&N intake R400 catback TGV deletes Plus a few other bits that aren't really relevant to this power level but did anyway for the future and reliability. Injectors may have helped a bit but others have got to this power level without them. ID1050x injectors Radium fuel rails Radium fuel reg AEM 340lph pump DCCDPro FuelPro pump controller Upgraded fuel pump wiring. EMTron ECU

It’ll be the heat preventing it from holding longer, mine does the same thing. This is where meth injection or e85 would make a big difference. Some tuners would just pull it back so it makes a 20-30nm less peak but can hold it considerably longer and look flatter.

I’ve always been kinda keen for meth on mine since e85 has never been readily available here. Hearing the horror stories of engines going boom when it fails is a bit off-putting though. The controllers can be wired to put the ECU in limp mode but not sure if that happens fast enough to actually save anything if it fails when being pushed hard.

Sure if you're expecting it to behave like the rotated version the core is based on then you’ll be disappointed but they’re probably still a better way than say a Kinugawa TD05/06 job or half the other stock location turbo’s out there. Most seem to see the core model and think it’ll somehow flow as well as the real thing and then end up disappointed, haven't seen many that actually hate the way they behave in general.

There is an Alpine one that has wireless carplay but the jump in price compared to other units is quite considerable. https://drivingsound.co.nz/product/alpine-ilx-107-wirless-carplay-for-iphones/ I find the volume button on my current Sony one is in a s*** spot which is why I'll be upgrading to something with physical buttons along the bottom shortly. It isn't exactly an easy task but you can retrofit buttons into a model that didn't come with them, I've done it on mine with ’most’ of the buttons working, I just need to redo the wiring to get a clearer resistance reading for the system to interpret. A semi relevant question I've been wondering about, is there any reason a US spec HU would have issues on this side of the world? Only thing I can think of would be for a built-in nav unit as the firmware may not be setup for our region.

What dyno was that on? Some read considerably higher than others. Mine made 225wkw/506nm but that was on the DTech dyno which reads considerably lower than the PBMS rolling road one. Mods are essentially just a decatted downpipe and an intake, everything else was done for future proofing and not to make more power now. The aggressive torque drop off is pretty standard for these as they can't hold the 20+psi peak boost for long so it's a quick rise and fall. A stock location 3071 is a decent choice depending on end goal. You’ll make somewhere around 250+wkw depending on accompanying mods.

What part of the country are you in? Have heard of coolant temp sensors causing something like this on older models as it can't decide how much extra fuel to add when cold so jumps around a lot. Or maybe a gasket somewhere that leaks a bunch when cold then expands enough when hot to not have such an impact.

No but I have been seriously tossing up getting the Sony AX8000, dig the big screen but can't help thinking it looks kinda out of place hanging in front of the dash. The W650E is kinda cool too but think those buttons might not be as user friendly as proper separate physical one's like the AX5500 or AX7000 that I'm more inclined to get.

You could try your luck with an Aliexpress android unit in the top cubby. There are some cheaper alternatives out there too. https://m.aliexpress.com/item/4001140657214.html?src=google&_randl_currency=NZD&_randl_shipto=NZ&src=google&albch=shopping&acnt=494-037-6276&isdl=y&slnk=&plac=&mtctp=&albbt=Google_7_shopping&aff_platform=google&aff_short_key=UneMJZVf&&albagn=888888&albcp=9594012230&albag=94205055490&trgt=296904913880&crea=en4001140657214&netw=u&device=m&albpg=296904913880&albpd=en4001140657214&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIgryQzN3J6gIVmiQrCh0xiAVKEAQYBiABEgJm0fD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds The other alternative is to go the Nexus 7 route which a few of us have done in the past but you need to be quite tech savvy to get it all working together.

Picked up Niran’s old Processwest FMIC kit to go with his old turbo set up and a set of very low KM 2019 STI springs and struts that I've been told will bolt in and give the car a nice drop without behaving poorly like most aftermarket springs on stock struts do.

That'll have a heap of poke. You'd have to run a pretty narrow stretched tyre or maybe heaps of camber to not rub everywhere. I'm running 18x9.5 +35 with 255/35/18. You don't want to go much further out than that unless you want to get serious with tight fitment mods.

K’s are getting up there but not high enough to really worry just yet. Fully synthetic is the usual recommendation for these. Castrol Edge 5w-30 or 5w-40 are what I've always used.

They were charging a percentage of item cost for shipping when I tried to source a hard to find bolt the other day due to shipping limitations from Japan right now so price is probably not too bad

Doubtful. Both will be Bilsteins so much of the same for OEM spec stuff.

Yea I really don't understand how PBMS sells so many of them aye. I like the general sound and look but it's horrible when just wanting to cruise around unnoticed. Haha nah still got a bunch of deciding to do on what direction to take before pulling the pin on anything.

Driftsideracing.co.nz had the best price I could find in NZ when I was looking a few months back. The factory DP, although only 2.5inch, isn't terrible on these as it's at least a proper bellmouth. Mine made 225wkw (301whp) with the stock one decatted and didn't notice much increase in noise with the cat gone, guessing the muffler at the rear of it helps a bunch.

I'm kinda considering the Q300 for mine, the current R400 is way too loud when pottering around for my liking. Or spend up a ’bit’ more and get a ARK GRiP or Grimmspeed one as the both look to be a lot nicer than Invidia stuff and promise to be less droney.

Well a V9 ’blobeye’ is the smart move to make if that's as new as you’ll go. There are a huge bunch of improvements between a V7 and V9 that make them much more capable from the get go including the better response from the twinscroll turbo. The facelift interior is quite a lot nicer to look at too.

Your properly prepped and repaired original motor ’might’ still be a smarter move depending on the history of a spare one. Unless of course your one’s got hot enough to warp the heads enough that a skim can't resolve which could be the case but you won't know until it is out of the car. There’s very little way of knowing when a wrecker one will go so a full replacement one might end up going in 10kkm time. At least if you repair yours you should be able to get a better gasket that doesn't have the factory NA gasket tendency to go prematurely.

It'll probably sit perfectly since they usually sag in the rears which BP struts on a BL will bring back to even.

Yea you’ll be fine in the short term. No idea on the air pump pipe. Both times I've done them I've had the air pump deleted already. It'll be a lot easier for using the right socket extensions with it out of the way for sure and it isn't a huge amount of work to unbolt and remove.