alfie

Just an update. Boon was right. Oil had made its way into the loom plug behind the airbox. No signs of it making it any further. Cleaned it out and the problem is gone. P1507 was caused by the iacv being stuck. Soaked it in CRC and loosened it up. After a running it a few times it appears to have freed up and idle is back to normal after a good run.

Yeah it's AVCS. I'll have a look in the next couple of days and check for oil and have dig around to get to the sensors. Cheers boon.

Hey everyone, I'm after a bit of insight on these engine codes, p1507 - idle control system malfunction and p0365 - camshaft position sensor B (bank 1). I imagine p1507 is due to the engine going into fail safe mode in response to p0365 but correct me if I'm wrong. This is on a JDM 2002 GGA WRX (non STI). Engine starts and idles fine until up to temperature. When it gets to temp and idle speed drops the check engine light comes on and it begins to surge at idle and runs rough if revs are increased from idle. I have found conflicting information regarding the number of camshaft position sensors but as far as I can tell there is likely just one on my engine below the oil filler cap. This one tests at around 2kohm which supposedly suggests it is fine. Is there one below the turbo on non STI models? Is this one visible without removing anything if it is on this model or can I only tell once I get some bits off? I have also found a suggestion that the timing belt could cause this as it can slacken a bit at low revs when worn out. Any help or anything else that you think could be helpful is much appreciated. Cheers

Did it have a big black roofbox on top? I am down there frequently. Its not lowered but the wheels and tyres that its on can make it appear quite a bit lower than standard, especially if just spotted at a glance.

Now looking a little less "middle aged woman" in the fresh shoes

Replaced a fuel injector which had somehow cracked and sprung a leak. Not a big leak but enough to stink up the cabin. Also not technically done to the car........yet. Fresh from powder coat this morning

Were they able to tell if your car was compatible with the upgrade before they hooked into the ECU? Armstrongs in Chch told me that they couldn't tell prior to getting the car and trying it and were going to charge me regardless of the outcome. Needless to say I haven't had it done. I would've thought they could tell me with VIN/engine/transmission numbers.

I experienced this with my BH. After some research I found that they had a reasonably common issue with the fuel lines leaking vapour when in cold temperatures. This was due to the plastic joiners and tees and the like expand and retract at different rates than the hose that they are joining. When very cold this created enough of a gap for a noticeable smell to make its way into the cabin via the heater vents. It wasn't considered a fuel leak as such and it only ever lasted until the engine bay got a bit of warmth in it, so I just let it be. I imagine the only way to fix that would be to replace fuel lines.

I'm pretty sure the JDM facelift OB had self levelling headlights but did not have the self adjusting rear shocks. They were on the North American models though so maybe NZ new would have them. You can tell by looking at the shock and it will have a small can hanging off the side about the size of a 250ml red bull can.

I did this on my old bh5 by disconnecting the return fuel line at the firewall and diverting it into a jerry can. Just let the car idle and you will get a constant flow of petrol from the return line. Took me about 10 minutes to drain 40 odd litres

Will do, thanks

Thanks, I cleaned the MAF last week, and throttle body clean was next on my list of things to try once I get a chance. I'll try some upper engine cleaner while I'm at it. Thanks for the help so far guys.

It has an aftermarket BOV from when I got it but it is plumbed back. Could the potentially different spring pressure from the factory item cause an issue? I never really gave this much thought as the culprit due to being fully recirculating.

I have a 2002 WRX wagon that has developed a stalling habit. There does not appear to be a pattern to it and no codes are given. Engine is in stock form. It tends to happen at low speeds when slowing down for intersections and slow corners. Occasionally when changing down gears the engine will die while the clutch is disengaged. There are no other symptoms and happens very quietly and smoothly and is not noticeable until either the clutch is engaged and the engine turns over again or if stopped when I try to take off with the car not running haha. It does appear as though the revs drop below idle speed when the clutch is disengaged but most of the time it corrects itself before it stalls. Anyone experienced this or have any ideas on where I should start? Cheers

Mine had some sort of control box tucked in beside the right rear inner guard that all the wires went to. From there it seems to be a single cable running to the front. I didn't bother tracing that because it was more effort than I was willing to give. I just disconnected it at the guard because the box was in an arse of a place.

I have a fusion and a soundstream 8 inch which are basically the same unit as the one pictured in Rosssub's post. One of them is under the passenger seat of the WRX and makes a decent improvement. I had the other one in my old legacy and it sounded good too. You wont get window rattling bass out of them but they fill in the lower frequencies well and allow the rest of the speakers to stick to the mids and highs, which gave me better sound quality once set up.. In the legacy I liken it to a well sorted amplified component setup and in the WRX it seems to pump a bit more. I am in CHCH if you would like to see just how they go.

My partner sold this around a month ago after having it for 4 or 5 years. It only had one key the whole time she had it. If your mate has only had it a week or so then they guy he got it off sold it pretty quickly. Definitely a bit suspicious.

I got a torin big red low profile jack from BNT in burnside. It's only suited to a workshop jack as it would be a bit hefty if you wanted to cart it with you very often, but it is bloody solid. I can't remember the price but it wasn't ridiculous. They do wayco jacks as well which are great but cost significantly more.

Welcome. I don't think blown primary turbos is a common problem on these but it is not unheard of. It was reasonably common on the previous model I believe. I had a manual bh5 gtb and would get 9-10L/100km on open road and 11-12L/100km around town. I've just recently got a 3.0L outback an it appears to be slightly thirstier but near enough to the same sort of figures so far.

I put 6.5" in mine. I cut the original speakers out of the mounts that they are moulded into and screwed the new speakers into that. that gave me the clearance I needed for the magnets and they screwed straight back into the door just as the old ones came out.

In a car my dad bought we found some pills and a towel with a logo and Japanese writing on it behind the glove box. Got a mate to translate it and it turns out it was from a Japanese mental institution.

So it sounds like there may or may not be a plug and if there is the clock will function but not dim. The finer details will have to wait until I get it. Cheers for the input

It's an '07 jap import. I assumed the nav was an option and would come with the clock otherwise

Thanks, was the plug in an obvious location or hidden well in the dash somewhere?

Hi all, Soon I will be taking delivery of a BPE outback and I'd like to swap the factory navigation screen out for the pocket and clock found in other examples. Does anyone know if the 6 pin plug for clock is floating around in the dash, as the plugs from unused trim options often are? My mate tried to do it recently to his legacy but said he could not find a plug there for it. Cheers