kamineko

ahh, good job there. i wasn\'t expecting you to disassemble it in situ

it doesn\'t seem to matter, you can move the linkages by hand to remove the transfer case, first remove the top access plate and remove the grub screw that holds the reverse protection to the linkage. this will free up the linkage so you can unhook it from the selector rods that should make sense after you remove the top plate and have a look. gazzy2000 may have pictures of this in his centre diff replace thread

05 it is then

to be fair, he\'s working without professional tools and its his first time opening a box. it may be more work but dropping the box completely seems like a good option to me

thinking the first gen legacy centre might not have been sealed and shared the transmission oil. other members have described this in the past 2nd gen viscous plates are definitely enclosed in a seam welded unit

think he means EFI wasted spark conversion. you\'d need a newer non-turbo ecu and associated sensors/bits. do-able i guess but a LOT of mucking around as there isn\'t much info on the non-turbo pinouts that i\'ve seen

Anyone used a TD05 for the single? I think at least one person has used a TD04 I\'m wondering if the TD05 would be too laggy around town in a tall geared BG5 (well I find it tall) I also wonder if a TD04 could keep me interested on the motorway. hmmm Currently the twinturbo is only interesting between 6-8krpm. I must remedy this..

how do you know its the centre thats clicking? sure its not something else like a worn CV joint?

have you checked the CEL code yet? a dud speed sensor can make an impreza run like poos, not sure what the symptoms are in a BH though

anyone weighed the removed metal?

negative my BG5B GTB has the 294 2pot fronts. the high spec BH/BE will have them too

so probably the same rotors you already have

nothing in the supercheap radiator hose bin can be made to work?

as far as i understand, the front tophats are symmetrical. the chassis provides the caster angle. left and right struts themselves differ at the ABS and brakeline mount tabs, and the bolt holes for camber adjustment the rear top hats do have an orientation, to match the tophat mount bolt pattern. these are aligned to the strut at assembly, there are markings to help. (GC/GF/BC/BF/BG/BD)

sorry if i\'ve got this wrong, but does he just want the handbrake to work after a rear 2pot conversion? the handbrake shoes still exist on the 2pot setup, attach correct hand brake cables from a wrx and winning? bah, ignore me. the weird grammar and lack of supporting info means this is probably irrelevant. dunno whats going on with your brakes

any in-car videos?

wait.... whut? there needs to be an internationally recognised sarcasm smiley for the internet

both the old ones?

might be time to look at some ducting to cool the brakes then?

i\'ve been through this exercise with a fairly stock sti. i don\'t think there is a one-size-fits-all remedy. this is what i\'ve tried anyway, i still ruin the 4pot/1pot setup with bendix ultimates over a trackday but no major failures recently. -pay extra attention to warming them up on the outlap, and cooling them on the inlap. ie. not using the brakes AT ALL to allow an airgap between pads and rotors in the pits. some pit entries are interesting to coast into, but i just nudge the handbrake if needed -whilst in pits, i push the car to help cool the rotors evenly -made sure front wheel bearings are good. ruined many many rotors until i sorted this. 2nd hand hubs are asking for failure, i pressed in genuine new bearings -adjusted my braking style. i tend to brake about 80% of the available brake... this doesn\'t mean i don\'t brake hard, but as the car slows into corner entry i just dont brake harder while everything is red hot. (at that point there is more braking available just dont use it) i brake a little earlier to compensate. its a bit weird as people say i do brake late? -loose all the extra car weight possible -bring extra rotors have managed a dozen spirited laps of manfield at good pace. ran out of fuel and stamina before the brakes gave up

topic split to more power for DXROLLA V2 STI RA i\'m just being a pain but its probably better to keep personal builds out of a general help thread which is pretty good by the way, cheers evowrx

bump it\'d be cool if members could view notes/mins from the closed meetings and stay in touch with any major changes going on? cheers

D35 sticker on that picture above = 6S ecu = STI / STI RA / STI R = all the same tune

7 months later, gearbox complete! well... 16 months actually. damn i want to drive my car after washing all the tiny bits i forgot how f**king heavy it is when put back together many thanks to Al who helped me with the syncro parts THANKS! you\'re awesome

what area of brake performance is letting you down?