Batbaruman

@nzpolice [edit] jk about tagging them but be careful about uploading potentially incriminating stuff online bro.

i've got 18x8 wheels et48 offset with tires 235/40/18. they protrude ever so slightly out from the guards. the rear guards needed a bit of gentle bashing to stop from rubbing. i don't run crazy offset (not a fan of the look). i don't think i can bash my guards in any further so would need to flare them out or something if wanted to go wider wheels.. you can ofcourse run some low profile tyres but they drive terribly and don't look quite right. what is the current setup? the stock 17's on the 01 STI is not so far inside flares is it? also in case you're new to this, make sure you test fit or ask the seller of the wheels to ensure that they clear brembos. its surprisingly difficult to find nice 5x100 wheels that clear brembos on a budget

gutted about that screw man damn, that tyre looked newish too this what i got up to last night before : see sig after :

aight had to pass on subanoodles lugs cos funds super low atm, those post travel loaded credit card feels new tyres are on now though and looking damn amazing. car looks proper low now. it's funny cos car looked like it was on stilts with the last tyres and now there is such little arch gap that i get mad guard rub on the back. front side is about 1-0.5 sneaker gap (mcm standards), back side will get a jandal (or thong) in there. old tyres was 215/35/18 which was complete wrong fitment (smaller than stock circumference), new ones are 235/40/18. got a good drive out west yesterday to hike but the left side was rubbing so bad i had to take every corner way more gently than i'd have liked to (not sure why only left side and not right side) no photos yet cause i'll probably wait till i fix up the paint before i bother getting photos. which brings me to my next question. is this DIY method recommended? (video below) or worth to save bit more and have professional roll it for me? i'll have wheels off soon anyway to sand down and paint so i was gonna try tackle this at same time.. and maybe finally put those mud flaps on.

i really need some diagrams with force vectors and such up in here doc.

getting my new tyres fitted next week, neuton nt5000 - not that flash but got cheap as on easter deals and should be miles better than what i have atm proper size should go long way to fixing arch gap. planning on sanding down the wheels and painting bronze/gold but keeping silver rim. might finally put those mudflaps on too which i purchased over a year ago. got a query about wheel nuts though, where are the best deals, what size do you get? how are they security wise, do you get options with lock nuts? i have 1 lock nut on each wheel at the moment and it provides me with a level of security, though i guess many believe they are unnecessary. I've only parked my car for long periods of time (6hrs+) twice in south auckland and both times i returned to find all nuts on a wheel had been undone til they realized they couldn't get lockouts off (this was my old car, i don't park the subi in dodgy places if i can avoid it )

don't get too much budget priority to spend on car these days but final getting around to fixing that arch gap next week

lookin good bro!

bump, i wanna see more cool STI pics cos i been running out of that passion/enthusiasm for doing stuff to car lately (which admittedly has been saving me S*** load of cash to spend on other areas of life so not necessary bad thing haha)

sorry bro missed the tag, only recently got back from 3 weeks away in Bali to be honest i'd have had no advice/tips anyway since Ajay at @Subirex Automotive did my install and I sourced my billet latch for it from @Dairusire Looks like you done an awesome job on the install though. don't you love how efficient/effective these are? make minimal noise as well and as long as the car is moving it's an amazing supply of cool air. i still suffer in traffic though with no a/c

this thread has heaps of info for ya to compare with

With fuel leaks fixed now Car : WRX STI 2001 (Bugeye) Tuned (or stock?), any fuel system mods? : tuned, ID1050x injectors, aem320lph e85 version, split fuel rails too if that makes any difference. Fuel : BP98 Fuel economy : 8.2km/L / 12.2 L/100km , 19.4 MPG

yeah what effect does dialling down boost by maybe 0.5-1psi at a time have? could be interesting to make those adjustments and log IAT under WOT. just 1 extra psi on mine raised power by not much and IATs by heaps.

but that screenshot is from my config, not his. i thought his standard rpm limit was already much lower , like rpm limit of 6.5k or something like that (regardless of condition). did you get to access his file to see the setup on that table? it was just my best guess that this is what is most likely happening

same , its just one of thsoe things id do if there was collision damage, as much as i love team bug eye it does look inda outdated compared to the following gens

i meant conversion lol. tinging either end is a terrible idea , the front will hinder your own vision and the rear will get you in S*** with insurance claims if someone rear end you. not sure why people do these things!

this is whats going on bro, not sure if you have access to yours to see the exact values but its the protection set up on the link by pbms. it's ect (engine coolant temp). there is rpm limit based on that on both ends (whether its' too cold or too hot). there are other limits in other tables too which will retard/enrich timing depending on temps, but most likely this is what you're hitting. if as they say , ECT of 110 is not a bad thing, you could potentially play around with this? its obvs at your own risk, PBMS would have set it up to metrics they felt were super safe boost limite table based on ECT (note that's MAP so includes BAP in figure too). rpm limit based on ect. yours would be a bit different obvs since our redlines and engines are different, but if you find rpm limit after certain temp then culprit is this table right here.

front too or just back?

yep i have had aftermarket alarms on all my cars, before i installed them there was no significant risk of flat batteries but afterwards it just takes 2 weeks of not driving to drain it all.

led flashing draining a car battery seems unlikely but then again, you do mention period of several weeks. does vehicle have an alarm? some discharge is quite normal. some form of trickle charger sounds like best idea? i ended up getting a ctek charger for mine, though if you park yours outside it may not be so practical.

i too wish to waste my guess and say that this is a giant turbo

cool looks like you figuredit out now. i had something like taht fitted on my old car, the previous owner in japan will have installed these.

wow which unit did you get? i will legit do this, im almost happy with state of my car mechanically now and wanna sort the interrior. wonder if its easy to get obdii out from the link, for that reason i was thinking to get windows tablet or something

@Supertec2610 has one not sure what city hes in though

really awesome, i love that internal gauge / dash thing. is that aftermarket or something which you can program the screen on the newer models to show? bit odd that the egts show in celcius while the oil/coolant temps show in farenheight though