Loren

I guess if the gearbox is staying in... then pulling the motor will be less work.

You don't need to remove the engine to do any of that work. The old flywheel will need machining.

macbilt are still solid... not the cheapest but the motor will last a long time. Llama won't be cheap either.

$1345 is a stupid price or they have quoted you more than that?

air intake

If you put the front of the car on stands and turn each wheel in turn... while holding the other still... you might be able to hear very clearly where the clicking is coming from.

That sounds messed up to me... stop driving it.

If you want the purist's driving experience, then stop looking at big fat Legacy wagons. Keep your current car and buy something really small and cheap you can throw around a bit while changing gears to your heart's delight. A s****y old mx5 or something maybe.

if it's never going to be launched etc, I reckon the oem Exedy will be fine.

Kinda joking because we're on a Subaru forum, but I like my Ranger more than my Legacy wagons for sure. Keep in mind I don't care about having a road going car that corners any more Not many 3.0 manuals around... you might have to stick to an auto... looks like 10k is the max you should be paying... but really depends on kms.

Get a Ford Ranger. And the 300,000 km Legacy might be really good or completely crap depending on how well it's been maintained. Could be an extremely expensive car to keep on the road.

I have used domestic irrigation type stuff before... they are good if you stick a lot of pressure behind them... but then you go through too much water, so you need to be smart about when to use them.

No it doesn't make sense. Can you put some pictures up to show what you mean?

When does it do that exactly? If only when powering out of or through a corner, it could be the inside rear wheel slipping because your rear diff is not very good... i.e. a viscous diff or a plated diff that needs servicing. The "clutch is poked because it engages right at the top" is an old school cable clutch thing I think... you have a hydraulic clutch. The Sti does have an intake temp sensor and so will feel down on power when heat soaked... the WRX does not have one... true for v5/v6 in any case, but I imagine a v7 sti will have one.

The Possum Link is less advanced than the stock ecu of a 1990 legacy.

It could be that those 3000 rpms you gave it the other day has destroyed the rings

5mm is fine... probably about half a litre over full, which is what you want for a track day or something usually.

If you don't have oil spewed all over the place then you are fine. Plenty of moisture builds up in the engine naturally, but is then burned off when the engine is up to temp. Oil level so low that the oil pressure light comes on is a lot more concerning

just going from a manual 5 speed to a manual 6 speed is a huge job. many many things that need changing.

Oh you could just keep the $1000 and not bother with the retune?

Probably not... still on the factory tune with loads of safe guards. Well you can pull the motor apart and look at the condition of the bearings... but you'd probably just see 200,000 km of wear more than anything. You could also stick an endoscope into the spark plugs holes to check for pitting on the piston crowns. I doubt you have done any damage.

Actually I wasn't even thinking about your tmic So yeah even worse not having the splitter as your intake charge will be hotter than it should be, causing detonation

That seems like the obvious thing, but you'd be surprised how hot you can get the motor before the factory gauge even moves. An aftermarket gauge would be better... but in your case I'd say not knowing anything would be better as you tend to panic quite easily. There is no way removing the splitter would cause overheating while casually driving along... even on the dyno it would not do anything... but get out on the track with constant high load and high speed... that's where you might find you can only do a few laps at a time before the water temp is climbing too high. I don't think the factory computer would save you from overheating either... an aftermarket computer can do anything you want.

You need to have something to divert the air down through the intercooler and under the car... even if you didn't have a tmic, you still need the air to be diverted under the car. If you have no splitter the air just hits the firewall and creates a high pressure zone, meaning the air coming through the radiator at the front of the car, can't flow nicely ...and I bet if you hit the track it would cause over heating. Happened to me... no tmic... took splitter out... caused temp issues.

I think the measure is when wide open. Supposedly the JDM STi runs a higher static pressure as well... 53psi vs 43psi for the wrx or US spec cars. You can always get them cleaned and flow tested so you know exactly what you have.