Loren

I bet the rear diff or the exhaust just hit something... or each over... they both move around a lot. You probably haven't done any detectable damage to the gearbox... just chill out... if it break it breaks, worry about it then.

My 5 speed took 3 years of brutal driving with over 400 whp before it broke... after fixing it... it only took 3 events to break again. It's just luck of the drawn sometimes.

They just plug inline with the arial and then get a power supply I think.

Putting money aside for when the gearbox blows doesn't sound like a great idea as it might never blow. You'd be better off having a general fund for maintenance and repairs... you have an old car and there's a lot of things that could need work before the gearbox. How big should that fund be? As much as you can afford As said... you can pick up a 5 speed for a few hundred... are they any good? who knows. You need to make sure the final drive is correct as well. BTW I know a guy in Wellington that has a stock pile of 5 speeds he doesn't want any more..

Does the WRX still come with a 5 speed manual? That might be an option... the GC and bugeye 5 speeds are soo old now and Subaru do not make parts for them... so "fixing" means replacing with more old parts. Otherwise you are looking at a recent 6 speed sti gearbox or buying an aftermarket gearset for the 5 speed. Both options will be very expensive. 8 to 10 k when all said and done with the sti 6 speed... more for the aftermarket gearset.

I haven't used it but know someone with it in a 2018 Outback and they rate it pretty highly... easpecially things like adaptive cruise control. I hate cruise control personally, but any driver aid focussed on collision avoidance has to be good imo.

Why what does it mean? oh, as above.

OEM are much better for the road than any performance pad. longer lasting, quieter, cleaner, and best performance when stone cold.

oem pads will be the least dusty surely?

how much over? which mark are you using? Another possibility is that they spilt a load of oil when doing the service and it just needs cleaning up.

They will be the same.

That's your opinion.

save your money. 200whp is plenty.

true... block mating surface out of spec... could be the initial cause... and if so it will just happen again.

my guess would be that as 0.06mm is 50% more than 0.04mm (your stated tolerance), that it's not usable... but i have no actual experience on the subject. I have bolted heads on and checked the warping amount... but not tried to bolt up to a slightly warped block before, so don't know what would happen.

Hey mate, judging from the complete lack of responses, i'd say you were on the wrong forum... maybe try and an engine building forum... or maybe RCIS... or sign up to HPA and ask on their forum perhaps?

That will be easier... just the battery and washer bottle to remove. TBH though these things often happen in pairs. Assuming both seals are the same age... they will be in a similar condition, and if one is leaking now, the other won't be far behind. Jacking the motor up will make the job of replacing the seals easier... but is more work before and after the seal replacement... so 6 of one and half a dozen of the other really.

There is no need to remove the spark plugs??? You just need to remove 6 bolts on each side.. unhook the breather pipe... and pull it off.

it's very easy, anyone can do it. Just make sure you don't over tighted the rocker over bolts when the new seals are in, or they will leak again in no time.

He's covering his ass. There will be less back pressure is all... no sensors are affected.

You don't need a tune... just make sure it's not over boosting too much... if it is, get an aftermarket boost controller. Havig said that... if you are going to be beating on it at a track day or something... a dyno check before hand is advisable.

Or you could buy a whole wing mirror and take the glass off and throw the rest in the bin.

pick a part

You don't need the air to hit the whole surface for it to work... there will be the same amount of air coming through the scoop. As long as the air is forced to go through the IC and can't go around it... you are good.

On the motorway there is a lot of air going through the radiator and the thermostat might be mostly closed... I've had a temp gauge on my top and bottom hoses at the same time, and the temperature drop through the radiator on the motorway is surprising... 90 degrees down to 15 at the bottom sometimes.