You need the boost to be controlled by the ECU for safety if nothing else. But apart from that the ECU can control the boost based on many criteria,
a spring can not.
In my experience with 3 STis... they all got terrible mileage on the factory tune, but much better with a
custom tune. I could get 400 km/tank on the factory tune with normal highway driving... but around town
I would have to drive very very carefully to get that... I only did it once, and it sucked.
Actually, only two of them ever had a factory tune... one I had tuned from factory, one was never tuned, and
one was already tuned.
Well it would crazy to go to a full cage if you weren't going to compete... and the yearly license and auth card fees don't amount to much... less than $200/yr.
How can a half cage be 8 point??? Or should I say, how can a half cage have front intrusion bars?
No, not a part... "The human skeleton is the internal framework of the body." - wikipedia.
Pretty good for rust... look at the top of the front windscreen maybe and around the bottom of the rear screen.
Depending on how awesome you want it to be there will be a great deal of rejuvenating to be done.
Spray brake cleaner over all the vac lines (from end to end) and around any intake manifold gaskets when idling... any change in idle due to spraying the brake cleaner will indicate a leak. Also you can squeeze each vac line in turn with some pliers... again, any change in idle means you have found the leaking vac line.
I would drive around for ages in my 96 legacy once the light was on... but it didn't have a turbo... in my wrx I will just fill it up whenever I am near a petrol station. It will use half a tank in the blink of an eye, so no point waiting until it's near empty. Current legacy is a 2006 and the
light comes on when I have 60 km left based on my average fuel consumption... so it's not based on the amount of fuel left.
Some things I was told about this week:
Drill 2 x 3mm holes in the thermostat, one on each side of the existing hole with the bobbly bit. It will flow earlier and better.
Use a good oil cooler and make sure the fittings/lines are not restrictive as that can make things worse.
Make sure your coolant isn't too concentrated as it will be too thick and so heat up more when being pumped. Also, coolant
doesn't provide cooling... that's what the water does.
And finally, a thick oil will also heat up more than a thin oil when being pumped and also travel through the motor slower
removing less heat... so don't go too thick.
I don't know why it's hard to find jap spec manuals... maybe they are all in Japanese and google only looks for english manuals by default?
I will look through my buckets and see if I have any to suit.
I don't know what a BP5 Legacy GT should be... I know that GC8 STi had 0.008 and .010 and that is what mine is set to.
The USDM 04 STi has the 0.0138 clearance... I have never found any JDM manuals... only USDM. In general though,
.008 and .010 is very common across lots of motors. 0.010±0.002 is 0.008 to 0.012... so 0.013 is too big. You could
look for a specific manual for you car of course and maybe the larger clearance is fine.
As a rough guide the USDM 04 sti manual says intake is 0.0079 +0.0016 / −0.0024... so your intake clearances are well within that.
The exhaust clearance is much bigger than 0.010 on this engine though... 0.0138±0.002, the +/- 0.002 is probably pretty good,
so 0.13 and 0.14 is probably on the big side. I have quite a few spare buckets, let me know what you need.