Gripless

That code and going up hill in a high gear is usually over boosting. Ie the waste gate and solenoid range isn’t enough to keep the boost at target. maybe 57 is due to limp mode but 47 could be anything.

I’d be running obd2 and checking the pedal and throttle readings dont leap around.

The table is basically like throttle (horizontal) vs rpm and the values are the boost level on psi. that’s the 2.5L model and it’s trying to hit max boost of 13.34psi so say about 14 psi or 1 bar on a gauge.

The weight of the newer cars is what holds them back from feeling fast. even the STI needs a tune to feel fast. But the handling is a lot better and the parts aren’t generally worn out. the 08-14 are the last of the cars without driver aids and radar crap so that’s a bonus. the sg-t is very soft from what I remember. I drive one before trying the sti and that was it. But the sti was still pretty sad until I found a tuned one. some slight lowering springs and a rear sway bar plus some wider rims with good tires and the sg-t is likely very nice and corner very well. The DCCD diff does make it corner nicer if you open it up which the STI feature. sg-t is probably easier to insure and really isn’t that attention grabbing.

Likely have to call the smaller local wreckers in smaller towns. Not like it’s a common item.

Top steering rack seals. Nothing special, verified same part number and everything. Was expecting $80 or so. relays are also way cheaper on partsouq.

Yeah I gave up when it was 6 weeks and $230 for a seal from Subaru NZ which was $30 from partsouq. Even with slow cheap shipping took 7 days DHL is quicker to ship around the world compared to the time anything takes in NZ.

You generally should replace them at 80k to 100k, but you can inspect them to get an idea of how f***ed they are and if it’s way past due. removing the cover and look for the same things as worn or old tires. Cracking on the side where it turns around pulleys surface cracks chipped or missing teeth threads coming out from the middle cuts or strips tearing off press your fingernail into it and it should bounce back and not leave a mark. It’s make of rubber so if it’s not bouncing back it’s rotted. id you don’t have receipts for the last replacement then plan to do everything including pump tensioner and pulleys (the smooth ones not the cam gears)

Are those skinny 17” rims? and wow that paint on the white line rear bar drivers end looks horrible.

please turn the phone sideways next time so the video is the correct way around.

Have you checked you didn’t know or cut any wastegate pipes. or the tps sensor isn’t plugged in.

Randomly found a video on the 5 speed and the guy in he USA who rebuilt 1000’s says the gear break as they are too thin for increased torque. the 2014 6 speed from the WRX is apparently basically a 5 speed sized gear and breaks the same. they replace the gear sets and have little to no issues. so stronger gear material is worth it compared to rebuilds or replacing the gearbox over and over.

Nope but sounds like battery maybe s***. if you have a charger put it on for a bit before you try and start it. Loads of battery issues with the lockdowns and sitting for months. in the morning after sitting overnight you get problems. After a drive it’s got enough charge to not have issues for a while.

Ask @Niran because sleeves are needed from the thinner walls and guessing as they liked the rod ratio.

What @Andy_Mac said it’s mapped to a target torque/power map that is calculated to/from a bunch of things. some models the boost limited could be different in I vs S and S#. In I the foot to the floor maybe only 80%. Mainly S# is S but with throttle getting to 100% way before the end of the travel. Much faster response.

Mine has. 2.5” on the cat back joint only and made no difference.

That sounds like a nightmare. VTNZ are great at not knowing WTF they are talking about. Been to one that didn’t even know what LVVTA cert plate was.

I’m guessing NZTA not VTNZ https://www.nzta.govt.nz/contact-us you could also try to get the old owner to do a personalised plate transfer form if you can find out who registered it.

Ok now I’ve put some km on these in wet and dry I will says very much softer sidewalls than the RE00x series. Running stock pressures. much softer and forgiving in pit holes, not so much dash rattle. grip is slightly lower. grip loss is progressive and very easy to pull back under control. The RE are much more snap loss of grip and skittish when they grip again. wet performance is very close to dry. You’d need standing water on very smooth roads or the track to upset them.

Not that I found. wreakers sell the sets often with the controller unit and locks. last I looked partsouq had no stock and the wreakers was the only option.

And we wonder why it’s so hard to get a WOF

Case flex was a Nissan GTiR problem. I thought you ate selector forks and bearing as well with flex. No amount of bracing fixed them. It slowed it but the flex would still kill them. Anyway I just took the offending gear and box to hear cutting services (Mt Wellington in Auckland) and they worked out the new gears. They remade so the same and some in new ratios as 5th was to tall. worked with stock synchros and all. There wa s the option of dog engagement but then that’s often cheap from older rally cars teams.

It’s always been something that pissed me off when places used too much. the hylomar stuff doesn’t break down and let go as much which could be the reason it’s in the service manuals of some manufacturers.

I got that but not dog box ones. Just OEM style but better material. last gears I got cut the metal they used was the same as the 900hp hill climb cars and not straight cut. The cutting and time was the cost.

So why not get the gears made in stronger material. It’s actually not that bad of a price last time I got some made.