Gripless

I'm not a fan of the look, but I own one and it is so much better, Everyone I know buys the STI then spends more on it, every generation you go up gets better. So your $15k becomes $18k after you add the downpipes and tune. STI 6 speed adds plenty of acceleration even without more power. Only downside to the STI is squeaky brembo brakes.

for that price you are getting close to v11 money. No matter how much money you put in to a car pre 2008 you won't make up for the chassis improvements and door with frames around the windows. even the stock 2016 shocks are noticeable improvement over 2014 ones fitted to the older car. No matter what you get you'll still spend money on it anyway.

I had one of these. Ran it in the race car until someone offered me $1000 for it.

I ran 3 120mm server fans in mine. 4 wire one have PWM so you can control speed. The 3 were the same size as the original heater box vent so they cable tied over the hole exactly. for ecu I kept as much stock as possible to allow the diagnostic just moved it up to behind glovebox. have you tried reaching out to link directly they used to be a friendly bunch, likely still are.

Hatch and sedan are same. I have sedan shocks in my hatch i think the sti and 5x114.3 hubs are wider for the lower shock mounting so you can’t just swap to the s-gt. Not sure

why do I want one of those to put in one of these? Not that a H12 would fit, but you can get EJ20 tube frame replicas 10/90 weight balance would need wheelie bars now I want one even more, wheelie bas on a daily Mmm

That guy make awesome subframes and all sorts of crazy parts ball jointed suspension arms too.

Depends on how you read the rule. Likely written like that so people don't try to sneak around it and argue geometry etc. My last car never needed a cert for auto manual conversion, I asked and even took it in. The pedal was OEM mount points and all travel and actions the same so no issues. only thing altered was 5 holes to mount the bolts through for clutch master cylinder. It got certed later for big brakes and adjustable suspension, swapped steering rack etc. Then it got written on a cert plate as 5 speed, but then followed by a cage and well after that not really anything left other than the body. Either way swapping s*** to 4wd and turbo is a pain in the arse, Subaru love to have wiring different between models so even that s***storm isn't worth it unless you have a trashed shell on your existing WRX and then $600 extra for a cert is nothing compared to scrapping the WRX. If you want to do it to learn stuff then go for it but in no way will you save money. Reshelling cars is good fun if you have the time and tools. Tools are very very important to make things go smoothly and torque wrenches aren't optional if you are starting out. Rattle guns (electric impact) are helpful to remove things that are old and rusted. WD40 and brass wire brush everything that comes undone early on too.

Sweet thanks

Anyone had any dealings with these guys? They seem to have cheap prices currently, to the point where I may get 265/35r18 tires before I get new rims. https://www.hyperdrive.co.nz/products/landing/227/tyres

lol, so my car is now on the NZ list with a status of no parts available. Plus says letter sent, but that's a load of crap unless the mail got lost.

If you have a hood scoop like Subaru you should have a tray as far back as the scoop to create a vacuum to draw more air through intercooler and radiator.

@Dairusire Was $1150 in the morning I think.

I think it’s a slippery slope. Few to many deal posts and shops join just to post crap. but even if it wasn’t from James I’d have posted this. crazy Something like $400 off the first link price. plus pretty sure I have been in hospital twice without one so even at full price very much a must buy.

Not a subaru not even a real car but still killed a few hours

the idea is to have them lead to a defuser out the back, defuser needs smooth airflow to work correctly. Car needs to be low to make them work. better off getting a bigger lower front lip. not the stick on foam s*** though. Or on rally cars stop the stones eating everything.

Ok so I don't work for these guys but they did the group buy and well the email I just got has great prices. I have a HANS device already which the the traditional U shaped that goes under harnesses but these ones are what I wish I purchased. If you have harness or race then these are literally life savers and about the best bit of safety kit you can own. Even in a mild wall tap or off road in rally they help so much. Most classes now require them but if you ca afford it then buy one anyway. prices on the site aren't the sale one and you need to figure out your size. https://jmms.co.nz/collections/driver-equipment/products/simpson-hybrid-sport-head-neck-restraint Large - huge price drop from the one listed or cheap option https://jmms.co.nz/collections/driver-equipment/products/schroth-shr-evo-fhr-device medium - reasonable price drop

The diameter of the magnets will make it hard for anyone to answer, even if the depth is ok they may foul on something. You can't even angle them up to gain clearance since they are almost have a square side profile. Subarus and many newer car have 2-3cm spacers from factory so can be miles of room back there. Look at the factory grills and see how far they sit off the cone face to get an idea of how close you can put them to the door card. Even so with a little cutting of the door card on the back most things can be made to fit. They tend to have raised circles to seal to the factory foam to seal the door skin around the speaker. Worst case you cut the factory door grill out to the cone diameter and screw he infinity grills to the outside of the door skin. Likely you have to have the tweeters mounted sticking out anyway. Remember to get/make new stiffer foam rings to seal to the door skin or the bass will leak into the door not cabin. X-overs you can chuck under the dash if you can't find room in door, but I think you'll find same in the doors. You can run fat new cable to the bass and thinner to the tweeter as it makes getting things through the rubber tube to the door easier. Seems a waste if you aren't running new cable so easy change to keep them inside the car, plus way easier to adjust them in cabin than ripping off door cards over and over to test. https://www.crutchfield.com/car/outfitmycar/mycar.aspx helps a lot for most audio things, they did write ups and teardown on heaps of cars. Don't worry about the AC, sub woofer options for door speakers it more for headunit swaps etc.

Why TVG delete gains are tiny. can leave them forced open and just pull the pump if you want an easier fix. Sub tech is penrose possum Bourne sells the little plates to blank them. The under turbo one you can do at solenoid end Leaving the steel pipe to make it way easier. either can delete the codes even before the pump is pulled out. it’s the cutting the solenoid to keep the pressure sensor that’s the careful bit. You can leave it whole if needed it just won’t be tidy.

I have the titanium version it’s loud as f***. I wound not recommend it at all. Plus the stuffing seems to not like the lift off pops and it got a lot louder. I think it’s burnt out a bit. Cold start will set off car alarms. decat makes a big noise difference so do that first before you pick the rear mufflers. even so the biggest noise I have once warmed up is still the pitch stop. Exhaust is loud but the pitch stop drones so much at mid rpm. yes I wear noise cancelling headphones on long trips. which are fancy airplane ones so you can hear just not constant droning. I'm likely getting custom adrenaline R one made up 3” straight though.

Pitch stop is good call. That or down pipe if it’s from the front. pull the boot carpet etc out and fold seats down. Noise will get way louder if it’s from the rear somewhere

Don’t bother with intake it big money for not much gain and full retune. Get better tires over an intake. they all make 300whp without a cat about 21-22psi down low and 14-15psi up top. they have no rumble in the 2.0L and rear muffler is the thing you want to replace. you’ll be surprised how big a leap the GRB is from any previous model.

Started it moved it to let the lawn live warmed it up Rev’d it Up and down it makes psst BOV noises and pop and crackles on deceleration turned it off Sigh

They over boost on steep hills in high gears as well. Thats the only time I got mine to over boost. Open road on a reasonable hill in 5-6th. Where you really should shift down a gear.

1995 Rally of Malaysia (Mitsubishi promo) At time 3m 17s after leg1 1 K.Eriksson 1:17:08 2 T.Makinen +02:20 3 P.Bourne +02:35 At 4m 27s actual possum footage.