Gripless

Ray hasslier in city is amazing but mainly do euros. Got them to do a Suzuki for me a couple of years ago.

Facelift so usually just bumpers and trim. suspension changed, dampers and spring rates, plus front lower rear bush is not S*** rubber. Poor tuning is the most likely cause of issues with the 2L and I'd get the baffled sump just in case. think Pbms change the oil passages a bit of full builds to offer increased protection to the bearings. that or down pipe and or intake mods without a tune. Runs lean and over boosts without a check engine light coming on most of the time. I think it's 24psi you get the over boost waste gate control failure code.

Don't worry about tweeters they aren't exactly good from factory, just get some two way 6 or 6.5 and gut the factory speakers keeping the frame. Then just screw the new speakers on to the top of the frame so it sits in the correct place and the factory frame to door doesn't need changing. i just used side cutters and a knife. Took about 10 mins pre speaker to get a good fit.

Would be great wearing a helmet and racing but all day in traffic it's not so great.

@Loren yeah surprised how bad, but it's basically making the fire wall a speaker cone.

Too many home and Internet tuners as well since they are popular so get the rom checked to see if "tuned" then maybe get a dyno run with wideband. 2L block is thick walled, looks about 12mm and braced well in the sti. Gearboxes are about 4K secondhand, center diff alone costs that new. they all get noisy gearbox bearings that are $1000 for the part and custom to subaru, not that they fail just get noisy. just get a warranty if you are worried for the $1200 ish for 3 years it's worth it. Less than the tyres for the same period.

Key word 'through', air around the radiator is like a subwoofer without a box, make plastic meal trays are easy to use for mock up and testing the curved edge help them stay ridged. Where you get them well

@Loren if you have gaps you'd be shocked at how much air will be bypassing the radiator. Without a high pressure in front and low pressure behind there's very little flow without fans. you may just have to small a radiator in the end but try to fill as much of the gap as you can.

Is the circuit board inside the amp labeled?

Would be run I rich if leaking. But you can hear them leak they make strange noises at boost.

But lazy...

Factory thin ones split if you over tighten them to many times. Aftermarket thicker ones need more effort to destroy. you want them tight but not cutting the silicone tight. Ie just use a screw driver with comfortable grip, not to the point you are trying to crush the handle.

Wouldn't it be worse if the breathers where fed to the intake and the vacuum would keep the oil in the heads? if the crankcase isn't under the same or more vacuum the the oil wouldn't be returning as fast.

Yip helps you get away from the cops

They still work even cracked but they don't hold alignment over bumps etc. going over bumps sounds way louder but not really any more road noise etc. that pitch stop rod is the only thing that's louder than the exhaust.

The later sti 09+ have that mount changed to something similar to the Motorsport whiteline. The Motorsport whiteline ones are a good upgrade over stock ones. Steering is far more direct and if you get the steering bushes as well you'll feel every bump and tiny stone in the road. The steering wheel feedback isn't uncomfortable but it does vibrate slightly with the road surface, so you can feel the grip level constantly. All the slop and dead zone is removed from the wheel as well so input required to turn is less. they also remove the damping of the factory bush trying to stay level so the arm moves more freely. while the stock bushes may look ok on the car, if you unbolt the arm and put a big screw drive through the bolt hole and leaver it you'll most likely see some serious cracking.

Think a mate of mine has a hks one from his old car when it was first imported.

Autolign was cheapest for the set of links I brought.

Link ecu on trade me $300 1554734632 plug and play for v3/4 possum link. or if the ecu has an rom chip you can remove it and swap it for one without the speed cut. there was ostrich that allowed the rom to be edited in realtime for about $200 in the past. Keeps the factory ecu and program just can edit all maps etc.

Guess you didn't match them up and see if it's shorter on one side or both. trademe 1552104803 has the short link that can be rotated. If one side was shorter you could swap to that and then it may stay in line. or measure up the bar and yours and email whiteline to see what it really is and what you should have.

From whiteline site, but they don't have sti listed anywhere for forester. That's using the vehicle selector to list parts not looking at the part number directly. But that's the same as the auction. If you measure the bar between the mounts are they the same?

It looks like the bar is being compressed and bowing in the middle most likely from the links binding up from the angle. Could even be hitting the exhaust as it bows. Do you have stock lower arms? As it looks like the bar is too narrow. It should end directly above the link mount for links that have both bolts on the same side. you may get away with swapping to links that have bolts coming out opposite sides. try putting the collars on the outside of the mount first that will stop the compression a little but it won't solve the problem. Those collars need to be close to the mounts or it will still move and bang about. Normally the rubber bushes stick out so the collars have something to rest against. Long story short, that bar does not fit your car with those links. Id be removing it if you daily drive it until you get a fix. you're loading that big arse bar and it will at some point either cause the back end to become unpredictable or tear a link or mount out and cause damage,

You buy a new trim panel that replaces the factory radio and makes it standard DIN sized (the size of all aftermarket radios). Most give you double DIN which is a stereo and pocket or touch screen size. Most likely from overseas as they sell for crazy money here. then you buy a pair of loom adapters. One goes from can to ISO standard, the other is ISO to the brand of stereo you buy. They are about $20 for both, even repco and supercheap have them. If you have premium audio them you need to do some more stuffing about bypassing or inter grating the factory amp. Or you buy the trim and go nuts putting in a tablet and connect it to an amp and diagnosistic port so you get all the engine data onscreen.

Spacers that size may not have the hub center ring so you end up supporting the wheels on the studs alone which isn't good.

Eccentric bolts are usually thinned down for the shocks like factory without slots Most slotted ones you just use the normal straight bolts, the amount of contact area and clamping force holds them in place. some do have special washer that turn and adjust the camber or you get a set that you change out to adjust to preset angles. MCA do list camber washers as an option for lower models and supplied with higher models. email or call them they are friendly the wheel alignment tech will set them for you based on the actual degrees you ask for if you them the shocks have adjustment on that bolt. Before that I usually just force them to the inside so atleast both sides are even and maximum camber. Good way to wear out tires though if you wait too long. I have the Tony's tire alignment card thing. Pay extra $50 on first alignment and get 5 for next two years. Can be handy for swapping shocks or going to track setup and back. Plus they swap tires around etc. Yip I'm that lazy now, car on hoist and tires all rotated.