boon
-
Posts
6,005 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
228
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Store
Everything posted by boon
-
"Ok here's your new tune, flash that and then go do some logging" "Right, went for a drive, here's the log file" "Oh yes, very nice, you can see just here where it started to knock furiously and smashed the bottom end bearing to little pieces" "Cool, thanks"
-
Product sounds cool enough, but I will add a note to say that E-tuning is for people who hate their cars and want to spend lots and lots of money buying a new motor.
-
Annoying when complete bottom-feeder morons think they can hot-wire a modern chip-key immobilised car. I would start with replacing the antenna but you may need to replace the whole ignition bit, which is a pain in the arse for a variety of reasons.
-
The wing looks friggin glorious, makes me want to paint and fit mine.
-
I've got the exact same button. It's for the parking corner marker thing. Pretty sure it's an extremely common aftermarket model.
-
Or the sidewalls will actually be straight up and down so the tyre will have some structure rather than slopping about like a jellyfish?
-
Uhhh 225s on a 9.5" rim, why are we are looking at anything other than your incorrect tyre fitment? The contact patch is herp derping about because your sidewalls are probably at about 45 degrees. Get tyres that actually fit on your rim. Your current combination isn't even legal (https://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2009_V3_Tyre_Size_to_Wheel_Size_Compatibility_Guide.pdf) Jesus, going loop-de-loop on handling mods while running a frankly stupid tyre setup, what's the point?
-
You can bet your right testicle that the very first thing a dodgy tuner does when an engine goes full grenade on them is removes the previous change they made in the ECU. "Nah I just ran it up to 3000rpm and it went boom, wasn't even on boost at the time" How are you going to prove otherwise?
-
99% of dyno operators have a frankly bewildering disclaimer that basically says they could pull the head off your motor and squeeze out a giant f***ing turd inside your block and it wouldn't be their fault. For a fairly expensive "premium" service they somehow get away with murder, imagine if you took your car to a panelbeater and their disclaimer was like "we may completely ruin your paint and dent all of your panels". Although on the other hand, there's probably too much risk of shed-built piles of s*** exploding and then being blamed on the tuner.
-
Dyno run or tune? Talk to SAS in Christchurch, they can probably help you source a motor.
-
Devil's advocate: Probably a s***load of cash to spend to get 230kw, or 250kw of unknown reliability. Less devil's advocate: Yeah, big chinese turbo or a Ford GT35; if you can't do the fab yourself then this is probably an infeasible project.
-
Wait, hang on. You say they've been ordered to pay, ordered by whom? If you already have an order from some sort of court/tribunal/blah, just go to your local district court and get them to enforce it. They'll probably start by sending a letter or two, followed by a bailiff if money doesn't start flowing again.
-
Intake manifold? You have the wrong generation, the bolt patterns change.
-
Your local VTNZ doesn't know what they're talking about (no surprises there), you just have to "permanently" remove the rear seatbelts and you can reclassify it. This usually means putting a bolt in the seatbelt mount holes and tack-welding it so it can't easily be removed. I mean s***, what does he think all the road legal full-caged cars with no back seat do?
-
So a coilover manufacturer told you that struts are more important, and a bushing manufacturer told you that bushings are more important? Now there's the surprise of the century. /sarcasm. If the factory bushings are so s*** hot, why do the WRC Subarus use pillowballs pretty much everywhere? Also, #unpopularopinion but I would say (total spitball figure) probably 80% of adjusty/coilover installs reduce the car's cornering grip. Best thing I ever did for my car's handling was make it a whole s***load softer. -
It's called the FA20 and it's been around for years now?
-
$1 reserve has always worked well for me but it's essential that someone bids like $800-$1000 in the first 48 hours or so, otherwise you get all these tyrekicking f***s contacting you thinking they're going to get an engine-swapped lifted Hilux for $46. EDIT: On that note, maybe instead of $1 reserve, make it like $500 reserve, something that's still a screaming good deal but eliminates the total dreamers off the bat.
-
There's a few options for a gasket, but most of them still come with sealant. It's one of those jobs you want to get right the first time cos it's a bloody messy job to go back and try again. It's good enough for Subaru to just goo the sucker up so I reckon it's good enough for us too.
-
So wait.... are you using a genuine Subaru sensor or a "probably compatible" alternative? When I said "did you get a 22633AA210" I meant "Did you get a genuine Subaru part, numbered 22633AA210, not some knock-off turd" The compatible alternate is 22633AA140, note 140, not 240. For bits like this, don't f*** around with aftermarket alternatives. We're talking about a $100 part here.
-
All cable throttles are on the same side. I think the yanks mainly got DBW throttles though, did you maybe get a DBW TPS? EDIT: Ok it looks like the DBW throttle body is a single-piece assembly, presumably with TPS built in. Did you get a 22633AA210?
-
Check the idler bearing on that belt. Mine did something pretty similar when the bearing was flogged out.
-
If the line is the indicator, then it's either set to like 70hz, which I would consider quite low, or about 150hz, which I would consider quite high. If it's currently on the low side, try setting it right in the middle, should give you roughly 100hz. Maybe a pinch to the left, approx 11 o'clock.
-
We're talking about like 350w here. 18mm MDF isn't going to move, don't worry about bracing it. Nutserts, each to their own, I've only used them with ridiculous systems where the sub was coming in and out a lot. Curious, the DD designs usually tune quite high (40hz is standard for them) so should be quite a punchy box. One thing to try is removing the polyfill from the box as this will make it behave like it's larger than it actually is. Other thing to check is that your low-pass filter isn't set ridiculously low, I'd aim for somewhere around 80-100hz, try turning it up just a little and see how that affects the sound.
-
That's a bloody good effort for a first go at building a box! I'll be interested to see how it changes how it sounds.
-
Honestly I would just hit up a wrecker and get the factory parts. Or Partsouq. Let me have a dig around. EDIT: If I've got the right part number a genuine one appears to be about 40USD new, so, being a piece of relatively undesirable plastic, should be cheap as chips from a wrecker.
-
Who's Online 0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 135 Guests (See full list)
- There are no registered users currently online