boon

Stayed with OE colour. As far as I can remember the output drops off considerably as you go into the bluer/whiter colours.

Best bet is to get some good quality high-output HID bulbs and give the headlight lenses a good polish. I'm running genuine Philips bulbs in mine and they're pretty good.

They have EL headers. They are a budget option for getting an EL header if you want to do that, because the flange location matches a turbo up-pipe.

Don't bother, I ran 230kw for years with no issues with the stock inline rail configuration.

You do what you can eh, I've left my arms looking like a teenager with some serious emotional issues after sound deadening a couple of doors. Amazing how much stuff back there is slicey as a slicey thing.

Did you do the outer door skin as well? I find that's equally important for sound quality purposes.

If you have 0.5v between the sensor ground and ground-ground then you have a wiring fault, bad ECU ground or bad loom ground, or just maybe you have a failing alternator rectifier and some AC is getting into your electrics. Disconnect the loom from the ECU and measure the resistance between the pins on the sensor end of the loom and the ECU plug end.

I'm gonna play devils advocate and say that unless you can find something else that killed it (failed injector or something) then it almost certainly was the tune, a little bit of knock will savage your big ends. Relatively low kms and power to have it run a bearing.

Is the uppipe itself leaking or the flange between it and the header? If it's definitely the up-pipe, I'd probably just ring a wrecker and get another factory one. The Redline ones are fine; some people had issues with the flexis in them but I think my twisted one was built from a Redline one and it's been fine for years.

A 2.5 CVT Outback will, I 100% guarantee, have an open centre diff; there's a decent chance that the car is effectively 2wd until it detects some slip anyway. I wouldn't stress about it.

Aerodynamically the same, but presumably a cheaper, heavier material. Same flow potential, worse spool and transient response.

Wow that S257 is outrageously good value. Journal bearing though, I presume? So you don't get the magic beans of the EFR centre section, but outside of that is appears to be aerodynamically the same turbo.......

Ahh, 7163 then. As long as it will fit, otherwise you'll need one with Indy housings, and they're a fair bit rarer than the 6758's.

What size is your motor? Still 2.0? I'd seriously consider an IndyCar 6758 if you can find one. May well give you the largest area under the curve due to insane spool characteristics. Use a big gate so you can let the engine breath a bit easier up top. Otherwise, EFR7163 twinscroll IWG if the packaging works. Buy @McMasterJamie's one.

Haha 3 out of 4 tyres agree that they are s*** and need replacing. Set of four and an alignment tomorrow then Otherwise passed! Go the Legacy.

Took it in to fail it's WoF. 99% chance of new tyres today.

2005 3.0R with Bilsteins. While I was doing the hub at the weekend I noticed the rear lower shock bushing, where it connects to the hub carrier, is split. Car needs a WoF so I will need to replace this. Whiteline doesn't seem to list a part, does someone know what's a good replacement for this? Also no discrete part listed on opposedforces @Andy_Mac you seem to know a bit about these cars, halp?

Sealed unit on these, dunno how I would go about getting more grease in there.

I could be completely wrong but aren't the P18 and P20 housings for ball bearing turbos, and VF30 is journal bearing? I seem to recall there was some small difference in the housings.

Swapped the new hub in. While I was putting the tools away I found the spare one that @Andy_Mac sold me a couple of years ago. Oh well, at least I know I have a spare now

Yep ordered from there as soon as I got home. Probably should have had a rummage around in the garage by the sounds of things.... I still haven't had a look to see if I actually had a spare hub 😅

It was one of those hubs! Thinking about it I probably have a spare somewhere (did I buy two off you or just one?) hahaha. No harm in having a new one anyway, it will presumably see the car out. It started doing a kinda thumpy rumbling on the motorway, thought I might have a flat so pulled over at the petrol station just up the road to check tyre pressures.... when I got to the rear left I could feel the heat radiating off the rim, it had got that hot hahaha. Still drove it like another 100km just to make sure it was really, really rooted 😥

Killed the left rear wheel bearing. Ugh. Car has been costing me a few pennies recently. Probably to be expected from a 14 year old, >200k vehicle.

The original Blitzen was in the BE/BH shape, which ended in 2003. These were the last of the twin turbo cars; this generation of Blitzen was indeed a collaboration between Subaru and Porsche Design and got a few little extras, mostly just the bodykit and some rims though. I've done a bit of hunting around this morning and it looks like they did a Blitzen in the BL/BP shape which started in 2004. These cars are all single turbo from the factory, this is what your car will be. Same deal, bodykit and rims and in theory it should be bright red.

I didn't know there was a post-2002 Blitzen. Unless someone can come up with some evidence to the contrary, I suspect it's a Legacy (probably one of the non-standard versions) that someone has added a Blitzen badge to. Anything 2005 will be factory single turbo. EDIT: Well, some further research suggests that there was indeed a Blitzen up through at least 2005.