boon

3089. Mid-pipe was a Zerosports, but that bolted straight up to the factory DP hence fitment = identical. Like I said, only change was rotating the flange. Wrapped and all, no clearance issues at all.

My Rage 3" V7 Downpipe fitted completely fine EXCEPT the midpipe flange had to be rotated about 45 degrees... not extended 100mm. Sounds like the DP you have is for a completely different shape, or your car is somehow really, really bent.

My DD 9515s have paper cones. So do my friend's RE MT18's... just saying. No bass is better than ugly, ugly bass.

New from BT. Umm sounds way more awesome, I would say it's definitely more torquey low down and spools a little faster. I haven't driven it long/hard enough yet to make a solid call, but it's a very nicely made piece of kit.

Rapid Radio, there's a few others that I can't remember off the top of my head. And if you don't supply RCAs and din pocket you'll get charged for them... DIN pockets are usually about $20 and RCAs $20-$more than the car...

Whaaaaaaaaaaaa

Installed Process West TMIC + splitter and CAI + Pod last night. Need to go for a fang this evening and see how much difference it makes.

In that case, for all intents and purposes, it's a VF34. Same compressor housing and wheel. Ball bearing centre. Great turbo on the V7. Earlier spool than the VF30, same top end punch. Probably the best IHI Single Scroll turbo for a street car.

Maybe if it was a dog-box. 6 speed dog gears probably cost the earth and then some. EDIT: That is an MY02 STi, even if it was built in 2001. I just think it's not a Spec C - the water spray bottle is in the engine bay, not the boot, and it has HIDs - Spec Cs all had projectors, to save weight. Has airbag and electric windows which spec-c had neither of. May well be a Prodrive though, at a guess I would say it was crashed (hence new headlights, bumper etc) and the engine got f*cked (radiator to cambelt), possibly the gearbox did too. EDIT2: Kinda do-want that bonnet though ;o EDIT3: It's still pretty cheap for an STi, depends on the k's on the new motor and just what sort of foolishness has been done to the gearbox. If it's got Cusco LSDs and some PPG goodies thrown into it then it's probably at least as good as the normal 6 speed.

You could weld a twin-scroll flange onto a single scroll up-pipe and the turbo would still work just fine... All V7s were single scroll by the way. The Spec C just got the VF34 with BB centre, vs the VF30 with thrust bearings or whatever they're called.

Funny that... who put the alarm in :

There's a few amps that I'm probably the only person in the country who can fix them properly (have information about parts that have the tops sanded off to protect the designs). So I have a stack of them and very, very little free time to work on them.

6x9 boxes suck massively. You buy 6x9s to get some bass when you don't want a sub, 6x9's are primarily designed to go in your parcel tray so they are designed to work in a semi-infinite baffle... they generally have quite stiff suspension and work best, when boxed, in around 80-100L ported per pair. Those 6x9 boxes are more like 4-5 litres, if you want that kind of sound you may as well install a row of tweeters across the parcel shelf since you'll be just about killing the low frequency output.

Mine used to clunk really badly in the rear, once I stopped at an intersection and it clunked so hard I thought the guy behind me had run into me. A lot of places will say diff bushes but the first thing to check is the struts. After I got mine greased it went away completely.

Yes, usually very easily. But I'm swamped at the moment, 6 month turnaround MINIMUM.

Nah man. That bolt is still seized tighter than... something I won't go into. It's the single nut one, not dual with lock-nut, apparently these have a bit of a reputation for seizing. Hopefully I'll pop in and see you about it this weekend Might need a bit of blowtorch action.

Yes. His torque would have come much earlier in the curve then dropped off - lots of torque times not many revs = some power, almost as much torque times more revs = more power.

Installed 2" lift kit. Not on the Subey

Torque IS power. Did nobody here do physics at school? Torque = force, Power = work/time, Work = force*time. KW = Torque * RPM... with a couple of other numbers thrown in.

The human ear is quite poor at detecting the directional source of low frequency signals. So you can put a sub in your boot, and especially with some signal tinkering (phase and time alignment in particular) you can bring the sub 'forward'. Our ears are very good at determining the location of higher frequency sounds, and this locational information is used by our brain to determine a lot of stuff about the source of the sound. For example, if you listen very, very carefully to a well recorded track on good equipment you should be able to place the individual instruments/artists on the stage. When you put components in the rear, particularly with the tweeter seperated and up high compared to the woofer, you can get some very, very curious effects, psychoacoustically. When you hear the exact same sound from in front of you, then a very small moment (path length difference) later from behind you, it basically makes your brain think you're in a very small room and you're hearing a reflection from behind you, or that there's 2 identical noise sources, which is very very rare in nature, and confuses the brain. It will just about make you feel like you're sitting in the middle of the performers. Interestingly enough this is pretty much how most nightclubs have their sound setup, with speakers in all 4 corners with messed up path lengths, so if you're after club-ish (read: crappy) sound, then the same speakers at all 4 corners is probably the go. If you want more of a concert style sound, or live performance, then good speakers up front with low-passed or no speakers in the back is the way to go.

I repair amplifiers in my spare time... if only people knew what was going on inside them The old Fusion FP-1404 is about the most bulletproof amp ever made. You have to do something completely obsurd to kill one, yet I still find them on trademe from time to time for $50 'as is' with popped output transistors.

That's a helluva lot of power from that setup. What injectors are you running, and which dyno was it on? I'm aiming for similar power levels from my V7. Oh and just to keep it on-topic... I'm staying TMIC, got myself a Process West one on the way. For road driving tbh it's going to cool just as well as a FMIC for sub-250wkw and even if it only lags slightly less than a FMIC, that's still less, and my entire modification path has been about increasing spool, early power and torque.

Get some good 6.5s and install them well then low-pass them. Something like old Fusion Jonahs. Won't look horry like 6x9s in the doors always do.

6x9's suck, get a sub. Edit: Unless you don't want to run a sub... p.s. if you cut metal up there it's epic WoF fail.

I miggght be imagining things but isn't the downpipe in the way of the bolts on the up-pipe? If you remove the downpipe and the up-pipe... doesn't the turbo come away as well?