slystiguy

For that sort of money I'd rather buy a cheap second hand td05 16g and pay someone to build it with better wheels/modify the front cover. At least you'd know it was mint and good to go. Or buy an sti turbo that is known to be good condition, bit of a lottery nowadays. example http://www.ebay.com/itm/Turbo-Upgrade-Cover-kit-SUBARU-TD05-TD06-w-GT-60-1-wheel-adjustable-actuator-/272231937284?hash=item3f6249b504:m:m2mnQJ5Rvk8UvrnhA7QoiFQ&vxp=mtr

depends on the dyno, I know my old td05 18g hit 240kw atw on an old ver 3 sti engine. If you want a seriously mental turbo with good power and ridiculous*(lol) spool get a bortgwarner EFR. Think they come with wastegate/boost control all in one as well so they are actually pretty good value for money.

should be "trimmed by sti" rather than tuned by sti lol. How dope does the s208 sound with that carbon roof?!?!?! F*** yea

I had funny things happen to my dash when a battery terminal wasn't getting contact with battery. Check the battery cables. Otherwise you will have to post up model details at the least.

I told you not to shell out $$ on coil pack until you have tested it. Before you replace plugs, try pulling and cleaning. If you notice one plug is distinctly different than the others let us know as that could be a sign of what cylinder it's happening on. Have you tried pulling off 1 single spark lead at a time (pull off coil pack but be careful) to see if one cylinder is dead? As for AFM what colour sticker does it have? Should be an orange or purple I think, maybe blue, probably orange though. There's only like 2-3 it could be for that model of wrx so it should be easy enough to get one for it. AFM are common to fail and give a complete mindF*** of symptons so if it's 50/50 I would replace it. Can confirm if you take pic of your subaru plate/supply rego. I honestly think you are better off spending the $$ paying a guy who knows subaru to sort it out for ya no point randomly throwing money at new parts if there's something else causing the issue, I know it's a pita but if you go to some one chill they will be straight up about it and sort it out for ya. Also in future if you need parts, try partsouq, shipping takes about 1 working week and the parts are genuine from subaru/cost like 40% less. Also do yourself a favour and google how to test resistance on spark plug leads it's very easy, and you basically get this number and check it against the rest, if one is largely higher than another then you chuck it out, and you can also refer to factory specs. They should be all very similar numbers.

Check codes weekly. Before shelling out on $$ I'd check resistance in spark leads and coil pack and check against factory tolerances... Only say that because you have some pretty janky looking spark plug lead setup? And it does work on finding dead ones.. Also check all the wiring to and from coil pack make sure nothing is loose. Be easy enough to swap coil out and test tho if someone will lend one to you locally for a couple hours.

Probably a fake. Would need photos to tell you what it was. Ecu code will more than likely be an easy way to identify what it is.

+1 for coil pack, hesitation and back firing is almost always coil pack related IME. You can test resistance in coil packs and sometimes it will find a dud but isn't always that accurate. I wouldn't bother changing pod filter if it's installed properly, won't be hurting anything and doesn't hurt the tune.. I'd be checking that bov isn't leaking. If it's hunting it's most likely a vacuum leak somewhere. Common places are the plastic turbo pipes on intake and intercooler. p.s sounds like you need to find a subaru mechanic that is confident with the early model stuff, they're pretty simple so if they can't work it out don't go back.

When mine went it started in 5th an progressed down the gears over the next couple weeks after that. Have heard some stories on the web of clutches going bad when people had a rear main seal leak and the oil makes the clutch slip but I dunno if that is a real thing, I've never known anyone who had it happen to them lol.

I'm in the process of doing a Retna to STI conversion. I should really update my post lol, it's almost finished. It's a huge job. Basically a complete reshell... Going right down the the bones of the car and building it back up. You will need a crashed/blown up/dereg car to swap the turbo parts onto, and basically none of the stuff on the factory shell is usable. We're talking, subframes out, fuel tank out, all driveline components out, all wiring out including interior. Then the same to the turbo car before you swap it all onto the non turbo body. All the mounting points ect are there and it's not actually a difficult swap just a huge amount of labour involved. If I were to do it again I would pick a ver 3 sti as the parts car. It's allows for the most simplicity in swapping parts, in regards to the interior. They only pop up twice a year on average. And priced from 1-5k depending on condition/road worthy ect. They are prone to rust so check that before you buy. It's a heck of a lot easier to buy a type R that's got a rough exterior and repairing/modifying that, than doing the conversion. I've enjoyed my retna conversion tho, it's been a real challenge mixing and matching all the parts, if you're up for a project that rapidly spirals out of control then do it I also think they make cool sleepers... if you were so inclined

I wondered about these too. Seem like a very cheap option. Ended up getting a set of reflowed injectors from Tony @ dtech, maybe send him a message and see if he has anything in stock/is still selling them?

This could be worth saving if money been spent elsewhere. That style is like 2sexy -90s sex spec. Classic in it's own way http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/toyota/auction-1400325025.htm

washing powder + warm water + scourer pad . Warning this will remove weak paint/clear coats ect and require polishing ect. Tread lightly and test it on a small area first.

Why? Are you using that td05 I sold you ages ago? Rough b4250, dealers always cut corners aye. Seen it happen ALOT with subaru.

$40 got me 200kms on my old turbo legacy lol

you would need a complete turbo car to swap basically 90% of the car over to it. Stripping down to the shell in most areas. Subframes out, fuel tanks swapped on some models. Basically $1000-3000 to get all the parts 100+ man hours to strip and reassemble 2 cars Saw a tidy factory bg5 turbo on facebook for $1500 reg n wof save yourself the hassle.

google subaru shock regreasing, it's quite common

Need more details of car. Common issues are worn shocks, worn sway bar things, underbody plastics not fixed properly. I mean it could be even an exhaust leak. Hard to diagnose over the web, but search subaru knocking shocks on here or youtube to get an idea of that. Nothing wrong with rubber bushes if they're not damaged. Sounds like they're clueless. What area are you in? There are some good mechanics on here who you can go check out.

What's your location? Why was the inter-cooler replaced? What was it replaced with? Full details Check inter-cooler pipes aren't split, check they're on snug and tightly clamped, check they haven't moved since last installation just in case they've moved. Check fuel pressure Check coil packs for cracks Check vacuum lines, anything cracking or brittle needs replacing, also no small weak cable ties only strong ones or use screw clamps! The pipes to and from the turbo need to be snug and tight, no leaks, no cracks, the vacuum plumbing has to be exactly correct and with restriction pill fitted. These are all things you can do yourself. A second set of eyes helps!

partsouq

Sounds very strange. Was anything else changed like injectors or turbo ect? Are you 100% sure the vacuum lines are plumbed in correctly? I've played with 4plug ecus a lot and never had anything like that happen with regards to codes randomly popping up. Chip tunes are a dangerous thing, it's hard to know what's actually on them and if it's even suitable for your car is luck of the draw. Check the plugs are securely plugged in and the wires aren't loose in the plug at ecu? 15psi is too high for stock engine imo. Wouldn't run more than 12. map sensor maxes out around that 15psi. Try disconnecting battery and letting it sit 30mins see if that clears it up.

The first time I did it when I was 17 (shiiit 10 years ago now) I almost cried with agony, Nowadays it takes me all of 15mins to get a downpipe off lol. Having the right tools helps a lot mind you. The others have covered it pretty well A good 6 point socket set in 3/8 or 1/2 inch, do not use a 12 point socket set on these nuts! a 14mm ring spanner (preferably with small offset in it is best), grab 2 if you can afford it they're quite handy to have (2nd hand shops are good place to find cheap singles) PB blaster is my preferred product for rusty nuts Breaker bars don't normally fit in the tight spaces for the downpipe so I wouldn't be too concerned with it but handy to have around anyway Pry bars are good to have to help split exhaust bits that are sealed on (These are a cheap and handy investment even if you don't need them for this job so much) Remove intercooler and piping Remove any heat shields The top 3 nuts are quite easy to get at and shouldn't give issues the bottom 2 are tricky, 1 is easyish from the top with the ring spanner and the other is a right knobhead in between the steering knuckle/ gearbox/cv joint , you'll probably end up under the car for this one). This one is where I normally end up using the ring spanner Take it slowly, don't put your sockets/spanners on funny angles they need to be perfectly snug on the nut or you may slip and strip it.Use a small hammering device to ensure they're on the nut properly or wedge a pry bar in there to hold it on if it wants to move off. You can use a hammer on the end of a ring spanner to help break the easy access ones. Avoid using socket set to break nuts unless it's a really high quality one and even then it's not ideal (damages them putting too much pressure on them/hitting them ect). If you get the thing off but the nuts took a hiding REPLACE THEM, do not use old exhaust nuts that are not in good order, if you replace them they must be high tensile steel nuts suitable for exhaust temps. If you're looking for cheap breaker bar extensions (e.g pipe to put over it) go to your local plumbing store and buy galv pipe, it's usually around $10 a meter at retail and it's strong and thick

I'll admit I jumped the gun, and probably acted a little childish too. I should have let an admin deal with it instead and for that I apologise. Racial slurs tho...?

I blame society