Wiretap

If the CEL has now gone off when the car is running you only need your ECU reset to make the codes disappear from historical memory forever

You've got both ECUs don't you? Where are you in Auckland? I can modify the tune on the AVCS-equipped ECU for you to drive a non-AVCS engine

Yes.

.... .... .... You don't actually understand how MRP works or why they do it do you? It may be 43.5psi at atmospheric pressure, but if you are at, say 10psi vacuum... it becomes 53.5psi MRP. at 20psi boost it becomes 23.5psi... Your injectors are not affected by atmospheric pressure, they're affected by manifold pressure. Their best atomisation is at 43.5 PSI MRP. not ARP.

By that measure, A gen-1 legacy ECU is also tunable, because it can be chipped

Yep, V4 Imprezas (they share their interior with the foz) have the plug but you won't get anything out by plugging into it, they're still old-school OBD-I(SSM-I)

Don't post bullsh!t. Just because it doesn't have a chip socket on the board doesn't mean it is not chippable. The 'daughter board' you are referring to converts the 20x2 pin array on the board into either a 20x2 chip socket (if you can get a 27C256, which I doubt these days) or two 20x2 sockets plus a chip to interleave them. An ECU that is 'tunable' as opposed to being chipped means it can be re-tuned without the addition of any extra parts. I stand by my thoughts on external wastegates, and if you want to run one that's fine, but don't expect me to just know about it.

I've found Turtle Wax Premium rubbing Compound to do an insanely good job of Subaru paint, have used it on a BC5, a GF8 and a BE5 with great results

I'd have more faith in what you were offering if you could spell/didn't use words that don't exist.

See above. Your ECU is controlling the boost, follow the hoses from your turbo.

WTF? No... Your ECU uses the boost-control solenoid to control the boost level...

I should mention that I used a MAF sensor interceptor to ensure I was getting appropriate fuel and timing for that much boost. Factory boost cut is 1.55bar, around 23psi. Any increase in boost should result in you having your conditions (AFRs, knock levels) checked professionally to avoid damage. And no, 16psi is not wastegate spring pressure, that's 8psi.

I used to run a 6s on 21psi on an early WRX EJ20G in my BC5... That when combined with a TD05H was a unique experience, one nothing yet has matched

The cheapest option is not to do it. Your initial base tune is going to cost you upwards of $600. Possibly as much as $1500 if you supply something non-running.

You won't be getting your 6S remapped any time soon, they're too old and require chipping, which nobody does anymore. Grab yourself a Link G4 plug-in and have it tuned. There are other options but they're a lot harder work.

As above. Nobody is going to provide such information without an explanation as to what happened and proof of validity. For all we know you could be trying to get info to steal a car!

Running lean in vacuum and rich on boost assuming you set it up with the vacuum line disconnected. My recommendations for FPR are either a factory one, or any reputable brand aftermarket one which is 1:1 rate.

If your CEL is going out then coming back on. You have fault codes (or a faulty main relay). And being a 5W ECU it doesn't support OBD-II, I have one of these ECUs and also the 4W (T/TB) variant sitting here. The pin-out is the same as the 96-on 3-plug Impreza ECUs (not to be confused with 93-96 as used in some non-turbo models)

There is no 'performance difference' between the regulators. A linear regulator will raise the fuel pressure 1psi for every 1psi of manifold pressure increase. This keeps the fuel pressure constant relative to manifold pressure, ensuring consistent fuel delivery. A rising rate regulator will, say at 0psi of boost, raise it 1psi for that 1psi increase to 1psi-boost. But at 10psi-boost to 11psi-boost it might raise it 3psi... This will not work with your factory ECU even with a re-tune

my mrs peugeot has 1 transponder key and one normal key without buttons and that opens the car and starts it? so i said he can try that. if not Your mrs peugeot has two transponder keys but only one with remote locking

Not needed to extend on a BC/BF as they're not stretched relative to the Impreza. Your BG has the 10cm body spacer remember.

If you paid less than 1500 it's easily worth it. 3-5k for a tidy stock wagon these days

As someone who has been there and done that. I can tell you it's easy. Work with VTNZ, they'll give you a form. This form needs to be signed and stamped by a police officer at the station to state the vehicle is not of interest to police. Then you can re-register it easy Sweet as Cheers! But what kind of questions are on the form? If they ask for previous owner I wont have it. As previous owner gave me fake details. You don't fill out the form. VTNZ and the Police fill out the form Bearing in mind if the car is of interest to police, they may decide you're liable for receipt of stolen property so make sure it's legit BEFORE you buy it. You MUST have the VIN plate still on the car also.

As someone who has been there and done that. I can tell you it's easy. Work with VTNZ, they'll give you a form. This form needs to be signed and stamped by a police officer at the station to state the vehicle is not of interest to police. Then you can re-register it easy

If you have your foot on the clutch, you're wearing the thrust bearing, bascially... Just the less time you spend with your foot on the clutch, the less time it has to wear. I've got an engine here that is the result of a year and a half of me doing exactly that with an HD clutch... it has 2mm-ish of crank play...