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Changing steering boots the easy(ish) way

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This method does not require a wheel alignment afterwards.

Parts needed are the slip-on boots from BNT at $7.99 ea or $70 for a 10 pack with fitting cone (ex gst)....perhaps should have done a CS welli bulk buy...

Tools needed:

1/2" socket set, long nose pliers, hammer, crc 5.56, degreaser/contact cleaner/brakleen, 2-3 ton trolley jack, axle stands, safety glasses, spanner set (if you want to remove tie rod), torque wrench (optional) for tightening wheel nuts


1. Remove old boot and clean dirt off shaft using contact cleaner/brakleen or other quick drying degreasing agent.


2. Remove locking pin from from locking nut, do not fully undo nut - leave about half on so when you whack with a hammer it does not damage the thread of the ball joint


3. Slip on new boot, it is a lot easier if you use the fitting cone. I improvised and used standard tools like long nose pliers and hose removal pliers


4. Slip hose clip under the boot so it's on the other side. I flipped the boot for this and it was annoying to get on. Can suggest cutting it off and using a cable tie in place of it


5. Slide boot into place, hold in place with cable ties and hose clips. All done. Took longer than expected though. A hoist would have made the job a lot easier


Refit ball joint and tighten nut, it does not need to be done super tight as there is a locking pin which I suggest replacing with a new one.

After all that, it would have been a lot easier just to separate the tie rod slip it on and get a wheel alighment afterwards

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 MercuryFree said:

Isn't it equally effective to just count the turns required to remove the steering arm, and then do it up an equal amount of turns when reattaching?

This is what I've read / been told at least...

But how to's with pictures are always appreciated in my book :)

i use twink to mark were everything should be, then when you put it back its pretty damn close, unless u accidently scrap it off lol


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Yup seen these,I dont like "universal" fitting boots of any kind myself as in my experiance they universally dont fit 100% making them either leak or allow dust and dirt in both are not good :)

prefer to get genuine and then i count turns and measure distance from the spanner mark on the rack end to the centre of the wee ball joint (tie rod end)

another wee trick I use as my memory fails me most of the time is using chalk right the turns on the concrete below where i working :)

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