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Changing steering boots the easy(ish) way


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This method does not require a wheel alignment afterwards.

Parts needed are the slip-on boots from BNT at $7.99 ea or $70 for a 10 pack with fitting cone (ex gst)....perhaps should have done a CS welli bulk buy...

Tools needed:

1/2" socket set, long nose pliers, hammer, crc 5.56, degreaser/contact cleaner/brakleen, 2-3 ton trolley jack, axle stands, safety glasses, spanner set (if you want to remove tie rod), torque wrench (optional) for tightening wheel nuts

Procedure:

1. Remove old boot and clean dirt off shaft using contact cleaner/brakleen or other quick drying degreasing agent.

01oldsteeringbootsplit.jpg

2. Remove locking pin from from locking nut, do not fully undo nut - leave about half on so when you whack with a hammer it does not damage the thread of the ball joint

02unboltedtierod.jpg

3. Slip on new boot, it is a lot easier if you use the fitting cone. I improvised and used standard tools like long nose pliers and hose removal pliers

03rubberbooton.jpg

4. Slip hose clip under the boot so it's on the other side. I flipped the boot for this and it was annoying to get on. Can suggest cutting it off and using a cable tie in place of it

04gettinghosecliponothersideofboot.jpg

5. Slide boot into place, hold in place with cable ties and hose clips. All done. Took longer than expected though. A hoist would have made the job a lot easier

05doneafteralongtime.jpg

Refit ball joint and tighten nut, it does not need to be done super tight as there is a locking pin which I suggest replacing with a new one.

After all that, it would have been a lot easier just to separate the tie rod slip it on and get a wheel alighment afterwards

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 MercuryFree said:

Isn't it equally effective to just count the turns required to remove the steering arm, and then do it up an equal amount of turns when reattaching?

This is what I've read / been told at least...

But how to's with pictures are always appreciated in my book :)

i use twink to mark were everything should be, then when you put it back its pretty damn close, unless u accidently scrap it off lol

-smurff

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Yup seen these,I dont like "universal" fitting boots of any kind myself as in my experiance they universally dont fit 100% making them either leak or allow dust and dirt in both are not good :)

prefer to get genuine and then i count turns and measure distance from the spanner mark on the rack end to the centre of the wee ball joint (tie rod end)

another wee trick I use as my memory fails me most of the time is using chalk right the turns on the concrete below where i working :)

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