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v5/6 WRX engines (non STI) what CR?


gazzy2000

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 nt_a_foz']

[quote name='gazzy2000 said:

Got a phone call back from a chap at PF automotive (subaru specialists in Tauranga) to chat about CRs etc

Told him my what i have leanrt on this thread and about the det issues is had during my TT to ST conversion due to compression ratios etc

He reckons the Det on my BH TT to ST conversion was prolly more-so due to the cam profile being completely wrong for the tune of the STI ECU i first used.

Meaning he reckons the CR is much of a muchness and he wud be more concerned with using a STI ECU on a non STI engine that dosnet have the right heads/ports/cams

So its almost down to... use a non STI computer on a non STI engine and you'll be sweet (regardless of CR) ???

Interesting!

/quote]

balls, the profiling of the gtb cams is very very close if not the same as the sti

i wud need scientific data before i believed anyone or anything on this topic anymore lol,

I am just going to try the ECUs that i have, listen for Det (with my listening device), pick the best one based on performance and lack of det, then get a AFR test done, then i am done

If you were talking to Dave from PF Automotivbe hes the owner and very well respected in the Rally Circles from what i know. Kooms mates rally car from CHCH gets looked after by him even though hes in Tauranga. Had subarus for years and when i went to the workshop last year had some REAALLYYY cool cars in there lol

Oh OK, yea well it was Dave i spoke with.. good to know

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ewww.. well i tried one of the stock WRX ECUs i have.. just now (am about to try Stoffas one)

I can confirm there is no Det, i didnt use any listening device i just used my LED hooked up to the boost solenoid and my ear-cometer (if major det is detected ECU goes into a safe mode killing the boost solenoid duty cycle i.e. the LED would stop flashing)

It is acutal smoother to drive, smooth boosting to 12PSI. I would say it is no more or no less agressive than the Link insert. It does boost spike to 15PSI though, but that may be the noid i am using, it is not a V5/6 one and its a 3 port i.e. v5/6 factory boost control is 2 port noids. I will change noids and do another test at some point.

But yea, lookin good, its still waaay better than the Twin Turbo thats for sure, it definately does not pull like an STI.. but i like it.

ABout to go and try SToffa's one now, back soon...

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(read above post if you havnt already)

just tried stoffa's ECU, it just threw a CEL and would not start, his one is NZ new, the other one i have is JDM

I am not going to bother to find out what is wrong with the NZ new one.. i think that about sums it up??

(unless SToffa... you want me to try some thing else)

i will fit the JDM ECU and drive around for a couple of three weeks and report my finding during that time (i.e. fuel consumption)

cheers

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k, fitted the 2 port boost noid went for a fang, still boost spikes..

Went for like an hours drive.. it goes bloody well really, i always thought the link was a tad under whelming in the BH even with a VF22 ( i know full well what a STI with a VF22 shud pull like, i had a 97 GF8) so the standard WRX ECU dosent feel that different to the link, if any thing its smoother.

All i know is that the Link is wasted on it if you arent going to do any mods.

I guess if i had of maxed out the mods i.e. bigger injectors, FMIC etc, the Link would come into its own.. but its the missus's car so meh, still goes wayy better than the BH TT.

My BG with a VF22 is close if not on par with STI performance.

EOI - v5/6 Possum link insert ECU tuned for BH Single T conversion 9:1 CR

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more thoughts..

With the WRX ECU the car feels like the normal TT power but no VoD, so its smooth all the way, i wouldn't call it STI performance by any stretch.

I will go out on a limb here and say the TT to ST conversion using the original BH engine is rather underwelming, I am unsure what makes the BH EJ208 engine so blah, Comp Ratio? Drive train ratio? the weight of the car? a mild cam profile/heads??

My BG with the ST conversion done blows the BH out of the water as far as driveability and performance goes, even when it ran the link.

Knowing what i know now i would only do this conversion on the BH if the TT engine died so i cud replace it all with a proper STI long block. In saying that i'd never buy a Subaru TT now anyways ;D

My question is: are stock standard v5/6 STI's as aggressive as stock v3/4 STI's?

When i owned my GF8 STI I went for a ride in a work mates stock standard v7 and then took him in my GF8 he was like 'man what mods you got' i said 'nothing'. So may be the v3/4's were the best year/model STIs?

Summary: using a Link ECU on a stock BH5 EJ208 engine is like putting the most expensive, flashest running shoes on a huge fat bastard... its not going to make them run fast!

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 gazzy2000 said:

(read above post if you havnt already)

just tried stoffa's ECU, it just threw a CEL and would not start, his one is NZ new, the other one i have is JDM

I am not going to bother to find out what is wrong with the NZ new one.. i think that about sums it up??

(unless SToffa... you want me to try some thing else)

i will fit the JDM ECU and drive around for a couple of three weeks and report my finding during that time (i.e. fuel consumption)

cheers

Probably something to do with the factory immobiliser, on your loom plug B134(black plug) your factory fuel pump relay will either be wired to pin 1 or pin 21, if its wired to pin 1 its designed to be used with immobiliser, if its wired to pin 21 (same as my V5 sti) its got no factory immobiliser.

Dont know if its just a case of swapping the pins in the plug over or not though.

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 Stoffa']

[quote name='gazzy2000 said:

(read above post if you havnt already)

just tried stoffa's ECU, it just threw a CEL and would not start, his one is NZ new, the other one i have is JDM

I am not going to bother to find out what is wrong with the NZ new one.. i think that about sums it up??

(unless SToffa... you want me to try some thing else)

i will fit the JDM ECU and drive around for a couple of three weeks and report my finding during that time (i.e. fuel consumption)

cheers

/quote]

Probably something to do with the factory immobiliser, on your loom plug B134(black plug) your factory fuel pump relay will either be wired to pin 1 or pin 21, if its wired to pin 1 its designed to be used with immobiliser, if its wired to pin 21 (same as my V5 sti) its got no factory immobiliser.

Dont know if its just a case of swapping the pins in the plug over or not though.

Ahh yip, with your ECU i did notice the fuel pump did not do its priming when you first turn on the ign

i have the JDM ECU all bolted up etc, i can do some investigating for you on the NZ new one since you were nice enough to lend it to me.. do you want me to check it out?

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I think alot of the underwhelmingness could be your tune, Mine goes very well, all 1700 kg's, lol.

Compared to your bg its alot heavier and longer gear ratio.

I do miss the way my bg went compared to my bh in alot of ways, the bh just takes more power to get going as hard.

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 gazzy2000']

[quote name='gazzy2000 said:

(read above post if you havnt already)

just tried stoffa's ECU, it just threw a CEL and would not start, his one is NZ new, the other one i have is JDM

I am not going to bother to find out what is wrong with the NZ new one.. i think that about sums it up??

(unless SToffa... you want me to try some thing else)

i will fit the JDM ECU and drive around for a couple of three weeks and report my finding during that time (i.e. fuel consumption)

cheers

/quote]

Probably something to do with the factory immobiliser, on your loom plug B134(black plug) your factory fuel pump relay will either be wired to pin 1 or pin 21, if its wired to pin 1 its designed to be used with immobiliser, if its wired to pin 21 (same as my V5 sti) its got no factory immobiliser.

Dont know if its just a case of swapping the pins in the plug over or not though.

Ahh yip, with your ECU i did notice the fuel pump did not do its priming when you first turn on the ign

i have the JDM ECU all bolted up etc, i can do some investigating for you on the NZ new one since you were nice enough to lend it to me.. do you want me to check it out?

It doesn't worry me, just send it back if you dont want it

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 mattapo said:

I think alot of the underwhelmingness could be your tune, Mine goes very well, all 1700 kg's, lol.

Compared to your bg its alot heavier and longer gear ratio.

I do miss the way my bg went compared to my bh in alot of ways, the bh just takes more power to get going as hard.

Isnt your short block one from PBMS and is 8:1 CR + you have STI pink injectors?

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 mattapo said:

yes and yes, but when i had a td04 and yellows it was blody nice to drive.

yip and you still had 8:1 CR maybe thats the differance.. who knows???

never mind, i am trying not to get hung up on finding/figuring out what works best for the BH ST conversion, all i know is mine at least.. was no where near the STI performance i was looking for.

its all personal preferance and opinions anyways.

Lets face it any single turbo layout has got be way better than the TT, and now we know what WRX ECU will work with out having to fork out for a Link.

Here is the ECU i used, as listed with Kaminekos ECU list:

(its out of a GF8 Auto)

Big A8, small numbers 22611 ae491

A18-000 D0Y. 0512

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  • 2 weeks later...

After doing alittle snooping around i think ur C rev engine may just be a 9:1 CR engine, it would seem that from rev C all EJ208's and EJ206's are 9:1, rev A/B are 8.5 in EJ208 form and 9 in EJ206. I have no solid proof but i from what ive seen the A/B EJ208 heads are pretty good and have agressive cams, top end in the A/B engines is what id consider decent, so your flat engine is likly tune based rather than the engine itself.

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  • 12 years later...

Anyone have any more info on this topic? Rev c was right on the turn from 8.5 cr to 9.1cr I'm pritty sure yellows to pinks and also version 5&6 to version 7. Is it maybe version 7 ecu it needs? 

I'm in same boat but with a RevB and a apexi PFC for a version 5&6 sti. Apparently I have to change around the cam and crack wires at the ecu. Anyone know? 

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