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headbolts and head gasket questions


WRXONP

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are subaru head bolts torque to yield ? stretch bolts ? guy at winger told me you can re use the same head bolts ? just want to know if any one has blown a head gasket then replaced head gasket and used same bolts ? also who has used the 3 layer metal STI head gaskets genuine ? are they good ? better than metal cometic ? also its been years since I've done a subaru engine . can't remember if you need to pull cams to get head off ? and what's the trick to getting the clutch fork out fully forgotten

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clutch fork is simple.

method a)

hex plug under the starter motor on the g/b - remove.

longish m6 bolt into the end of the large pin and pull.

pull fork up and out of release bearing

method b)

split box and gearbox an inch or so from the top.

insert large flatblade and pop the release bearing out of clutch*

*you either know how to pop it or you dont, its hard to explain without seeing it done. Simple once you've seen it.

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Personally Id never reuse head bolts they are torque to yeild, ARP studs yes not std bolts (they are cheap as chips anyway).

Ive used the std metal gaskets and cometics, they both seem ok. The STI ones have a crush ring on them whereas the cometics I used this time dont.

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early engine are low comp - hi boost and run thicker headgasket

Later engines are hi comp low boost and run the thinner head gasket

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 WRXONP said:

ha sweet man. just got the 3 layer genuine STI head gaskets. genuine head bolts . genuine thermastat and water pump and cam belt kit . now just need time at work to lift motor out with the fork lift

did the head gasket actually blow ? or you just rather be safe then sorry after the overheat?

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yes it need to be spotless! if its had an overheat it wouldn't hurt to get the heads and block half's decked encase of warpage but you could wing it.

its abit hard with the head locators but a big sheet of wet and wry sandpaper and a big sanding block is what i used during one of my rebuilds to clean the crap of. gasket stripper would leave a residue ?

i even used copper gasket spray on the headgaskets to try help them seal dont know if it helped tho as the motor died from running lean not to long after the rebuild (you live and learn ::) )

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 rex-leggy said:

yes it need to be spotless! if its had an overheat it wouldn't hurt to get the heads and block half's decked encase of warpage but you could wing it.

its abit hard with the head locators but a big sheet of wet and wry sandpaper and a big sanding block is what i used during one of my rebuilds to clean the crap of. gasket stripper would leave a residue ?

i even used copper gasket spray on the headgaskets to try help them seal dont know if it helped tho as the motor died from running lean not to long after the rebuild (you live and learn ::) )

I swear by this I use it on every headgasket/waterpump/Gasket i do, cant do any harm and may do some good :)

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i use to use that when i was a diesel mechanic. the spray on stuff you spray on head gasket then wait to go tacky then fit. seems weird its not using water. i will do the funnel trick today and see what's up

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I use an empty powerade bottle or at least soemthing clear and that neck fits in the filler hole,fill it with water then turn it upside down in filler so as it has water in it and watch for bubbles

U will get some bubbles in just the radiator without disconnecting the waterpump as it causes some cavitation,so the bottle/funnel trick should alleviate some of this issue

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