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stalling when idling down?


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im damn sure thats the problem i didnt think about the ir coming back past the afm would totally screw the afm. bovs still not welded up cant get to annoyed with him though when its a free job.

looking at wildturkeys unichip to pull it all together. any thoughts? dont really want to go standalone so either safc or piggyback. i have heard safc doesnt work on v5/6 because of the tuning issue but the internet tells a lot of stories.

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 evowrx']

for #1 your AFM wont like being inline like that (no bends) and that close to your turbo.... heres one guess. your turbo with no bov is surging and becuase your AFM is so close and inline its causing air to run backwards through it and messes up what the factory ECU knows about air taken in - so it miscalculates and stalls.

+1, seen this on multiple cars

A lot of work to go through just for factory comp?

did they have the same problem? its common for bov to cause this issue but it didnt have one ;D

Huh? I was saying its potentially something to do with the afm as funky said. and I've seen it on other cars.

edited IMO, the lack of a BOV has highlighted nothing to do with your problem, some cars come factory with none... just means you get turbo surge (which kills your turbo in the end)

[quote name='evowrx said:

how so? heaps of people front mount and i got it new and cheap so i just made the piping shorter and twisted turbo to fit the flipped manifold. splitting the rails was just common sense.

Fair enough, just that most people twist turbo's to fit a bigger one.

and as it is a lot of work (and expensive) I wouldn't have thought it would be worth it to gain back the imaginary loss of "lag" from a factory turbo, where "lag" is next to non-existant anyway

edit* assuming that's why you twisted/flipped etc.

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 pl0x']

for #1 your AFM wont like being inline like that (no bends) and that close to your turbo.... heres one guess. your turbo with no bov is surging and becuase your AFM is so close and inline its causing air to run backwards through it and messes up what the factory ECU knows about air taken in - so it miscalculates and stalls.

+1, seen this on multiple cars

A lot of work to go through just for factory comp?

did they have the same problem? its common for bov to cause this issue but it didnt have one ;D

Huh? I was saying its potentially something to do with the afm as funky said. and I've seen it on other cars.

IMO, the lack of a BOV has nothing to do with your problem, some cars come factory with none... just means you get turbo surge (which kills your turbo in the end)

[quote name='evowrx said:

how so? heaps of people front mount and i got it new and cheap so i just made the piping shorter and twisted turbo to fit the flipped manifold. splitting the rails was just common sense.

/quote]

Fair enough, just that most people twist turbo's to fit a bigger one.

and as it is a lot of work (and expensive) I wouldn't have thought it would be worth it to gain back the imaginary loss of "lag" from a factory turbo, where "lag" is next to non-existant anyway

edit* assuming that's why you twisted/flipped etc.

i dont think the afm being where it is is causing it, more the fact that air is feeding back through it upsetting flow. i didnt think about that till funky said.

reasons for what i did.

#1 for the power i want i needed to free up intake.

#2 if i flipped manifold then i had to use a legacy equal length one being phase 2 to keep factory turbo fitment and then i would have no coil pack bracket etc

#3 the front mount piping didnt fit either side where it was meant to go.

#4 by twisting the turbo i could keep factory intake manifold

#5 ive done a sh*tload of reading on the whole lag/spool business seems 50/50 as to whether it matters or not but still looks heaps tider imo

#6 i like a challenge and to have something different. ive only seen one v5/6 mani flipped rather than cut and everone swore it couldnt be done.

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update bov is on. got to adjust it now but its not stalling half as bad now. if i drop the throttle from 6000rpm it will stall sometimes it was stalling all the time before.

im figuring that its afm placement but will adjust bov and update again.

the rev guage is still playing up but now its being lazy as well as over active so ill check the switch set up on the greddy speed controller tomorrow its probably wrong or something. it was set up for a b4 it may be different.

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i think i have the problem...#5 on the pic below. i think ive got the lines round the wrong way. one side breathes but does the other side go between the comp housing and internal? if so do i just disconnect it?

wastegatesolenoid.jpg

edit: ive tried kinking the line to that solenoid it doesnt help. also backfires through the intake when throttling down too. fuel reg is set right but could it be faulty? when throttling down itl pop, drop right off to zero then sometimes idle back up. ive double checked all vac lines, tightened intake gaskets, checked all intercooler piping, no cel at all, all i can think of is fuel reg.

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if you've removed the carbon canister and purge solenoid did you remove the PCV valve completly and block off the hole? otherwise when its under vacuum it'll open and suck in extra air lean out and stall.

have you connected up your boost solenoid?

also its a good idea to use cable ties on your vacuum lines especially the FPR its the fastest way to kill an engine if it pops off under boost

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cleaned the icv was filthy might be in my head but car seems to drive a bit nicer but didnt fix the problem. i just completely removed the carbon solenoid and plugged the vacuum.

the pcv just goes to atmo till i sort the intake pipe with a proper pipe. its bunged up on intake.

ive tried connecting the stock wastegate solenoid to everything through either port and it still has the problem.

edit: http://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php/topic,15097.0.html one of the posts that say it doesnt work but have read many contradicting posts on it

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Is the pcv valve itself blocked off on the manifold or on the intake pipe? if its venting to atmo then theres your vacuum leak

Where is your pressure exchange solenoid? it looks like its missing in your pics, the ecu uses it to measure the manifold pressure and the atmospheric pressure and adjusts the fueling/timing to suit, if you've removed it it will be causing trouble

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yip sure is i put a brass bung in and crankcase to a breather.

the solenoid for emissions is completely gone. i unplugged it with old set up as i broke one of the ports coz it was hard and brittle. ran fine so thats not the problem. the vacuum feed to mani is blocked and the canister is removed. the other line from tank is breathing under the chassis. nothing wrong with this side of things.

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im using a hdi ebc. the solenoids hiding behind the intake pipe.

good to see people are still trying to help lol. when are you doing all this qraf?

its running way better now not too sure why. ive got a spare good afm to try to but not till tonight. hope im not right on afm though.

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never had it tuned its a nz new so has no speed cut and is tuned for 95 gas. running a evc running 16psi low and 20psi high

I got a ver5 sti computer sitting in the garage but it didn't start the car as i have to change some pins?

my o2 sensor keeps coming up since doing the split fuel mod tho ?

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how do you not have boost cut? is that a nz new thing too?

id be keen to try that ecu in mine as its a import.

o2 sensor is a consumable item just replace it. i can get you one cheap if you want. just a thought it might be sooting up from running rich? a tune would sort the fuel problem anyway.

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yeah nz new have no speed cut as nz roads speed limit is something like 320km/hr like thats the fastest the roads can take over in japan theres is 180km/hr so there cars are limited to that speed.

my cars gearbox limits it to 277km/hr and the fastest i've been was 260km/hr but i don't condone those sorts of speeds and i was younger and full of more cum.

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 evowrx said:

how do you not have boost cut? is that a nz new thing too?

id be keen to try that ecu in mine as its a import.

o2 sensor is a consumable item just replace it. i can get you one cheap if you want. just a thought it might be sooting up from running rich? a tune would sort the fuel problem anyway.

na boost cut as above? speed cut doesnt bother me when i tune ill just get it turned off/raise boost and rev cut too.

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 evowrx said:

im using a hdi ebc. the solenoids hiding behind the intake pipe.

good to see people are still trying to help lol. when are you doing all this qraf?

its running way better now not too sure why. ive got a spare good afm to try to but not till tonight. hope im not right on afm though.

im still pretty certain it's because of afm position ae, and that air might be going back thru it and giving it a hard time

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