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Posted

Hi

I have a subaru legacy 2000. I've redone the audio system with a new pioneer amp and speakers.

I was wondering if it was worth while putting in some sound deadening material - i.e dynamat , Q mat etc..

I noticed there was some ?? sound deadening material on the floors. Thought I'd get some on the boot and doors and maybe roof.

Any thoughts?

There's a lot of road noise when driving on the highway.

thanks

Posted

I have always had good results with dynamat if install correctly :)

Posted
 legacy666 said:

I'd skip it, buy a sub and crank that sh*t louder, that will get rid of any road noise.

+1. That money could be spend better else where

Posted
 legacy666 said:

I'd skip it, buy a sub and crank that sh*t louder, that will get rid of any road noise.

I have a fusion active tube sub and I have got it sounding pretty good just by adjusting levels on the head unit and with the remote the sub came with, I have heard subs that are turned right up and at the end of the day all it does is sound like shit and draw attention to your self.

Posted
 subout said:

Install a half a sheet behind each of your front speakers as a min, itll create more midbass up front for you.

+1

Posted
 cruiser40']

[quote name='legacy666 said:

I'd skip it, buy a sub and crank that sh*t louder, that will get rid of any road noise.

/quote]

I have a fusion active tube sub and I have got it sounding pretty good just by adjusting levels on the head unit and with the remote the sub came with, I have heard subs that are turned right up and at the end of the day all it does is sound like s*** and draw attention to your self.

Im simply saying that if all you have done is add an amp and speakers then the next logical step is a subwoofer. And obviously if you crank the sub up too loud its going to sound like crap. Its all about balancing your set up.

I use this to get my setup sounding great

:D
Posted

Pfft people

In simplest terms, Dynamat is a polybutanol type product with a aluminium foil backing...

Buy this type of stuff as it is exactly the same (minus flash printed branding) as the expensive dynamat, you can get them from your local hardware merchant or alternatively speak to a local builder on acquiring some off cuts.

http://www.trademe.co.nz/building-renovation/building-supplies/other/auction-509324223.htm

Posted

@ legacy666 sorry misread what you were meaning :) I use this song

Posted

I'm going to install some sound deadening material (qmat or dynamat) to my doors and trunk.

Should I

a. Install some behind the speaker for better resonance

b. Apply some for the floor and roof - I think the floor already has some sound deadening stuff??

Anyone actually installed this stuff in a legacy? Any advice? thanks

Posted

Dynamat extreme definitely makes a difference. I have it in the coupe, but not in the wagon; the mid-bass response in the wagon is nowhere near as good. I bought a bulk pack and it's done my last three cars - half door behind speakers.

Posted

definately worth atleast the speaker kit if you have amped fronts, more solid midbass, after doing mine I had much more 'upfront' sounding bass, and less rattles etc as a bonus. haven't done the whole door just around each front comp. that flashing stuff above looks like a good deal, as long as it doesn't have a tar like material that stinks when gets really hot? some do.

Posted

Hi

Lots of people on the web say that the cheap flashing stuff starts to smell bad and release nasty fumes. Anyone had experience with this?

thanks

  • Admin
Posted

There's 3 ways to do Dynamat.

The first is doing bare essentials - put a square behind your speakers, and as much as you can spare focusing on large, flat panels such as the rest of the door skins. Maybe your boot lid if you have a sub but generally speaking the kind of vibrations a sub causes are quite hard to fight with the kind of mass-loading dynamat can provide.

Or you can go all out on the doors. In this instance I generally go with a layer on as much of the door skin as possible, plus a layer on the inside skin/frame of the door after covering up all the access holes with thin MDF/plastic/alloy. This significantly helps to isolate the rear wave of the speaker from the front. Plus your doors will go WHUMP when you shut them...

The final option is to go the whole hog and do the dynamat cave option. The last 2 surfaces you should care about are the firewall and the floor as they're usually pretty rigid and pretty well sound-deadened anyway. If you combine this with getting kinda crazy with the expanding foam in terms of filling voids you can get a cabin that sounds about as good as you can get in a car.

But then you add road noise and it all goes to sh!t in a hurry anyway. So it's a bit of a moot point.

Personally, I'd just throw a bit behind each speaker and maybe a couple of strips up the main door skins to deaden them a bit. And sealing off the access holes with 6mm MDF and alloy flashing tape helps a lot as well.

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