what grade oil are you using for winter?

[Guest]

I'v noticed latley that my oil temp is down abit and im just wondering if the grade im using to top up is a bit thick to get up to operating temperature.

On the motorway it sits on a consistant 75c, it was a min of 85c before i topped up with some 15/50 (elf) only because i couldn't find my usual 10/40 ELF comp sm.

Its got a forged bottom end if it matters and also my under standing is that oil doesn't really protect when its cold, 75c ain't exactly cold but it is a little bit out of operating temperatures isn't it, i'm thinking 85-90c is the protecting temperatures?

what are you guys/girls using?

[Swindog]

Itll sit where it sits mate. Cooler the better. Thats why people put in oil coolers.

My old 2.2 vtec accord ran at 72deg and on a cold invers day run at 65deg on hot ass day it would be 80+

[driftrex]

im sure you already know this but you definately shouldnt be mixing grades of oil.

[Guest]

Do some research on oil viscosity

Engine coolant temp is not a way to judge what oil to run !

however most engines are needing either a 0 or 5w/ ? as a basic guide with the cold weather now upon us

[Guest]

 Ichi Ban said:

Do some research on oil viscosity

Engine coolant temp is not a way to judge what oil to run !

however most engines are needing either a 0 or 5w/ ? as a basic guide with the cold weather now upon us

im going by my oil temp gauge, and doesn't oil have to get up to a certain temp in order to do it's thing in protecting your motor?

[cpt kernow]

oil has to be at a certain viscosity not neesessarily temp.

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

[driftrex]

 gc8ra']

[quote name='Ichi Ban said:

Do some research on oil viscosity

Engine coolant temp is not a way to judge what oil to run !

however most engines are needing either a 0 or 5w/ ? as a basic guide with the cold weather now upon us

/quote]

im going by my oil temp gauge, and doesn't oil have to get up to a certain temp in order to do it's thing in protecting your motor?

no oil has a low temp rating and high temp rating, it will protect at both levels, as said above you need to do some research on oil vicosity so that you understand it properly.

[Guest]

 Ichi Ban said:

Do some research on oil viscosity

Engine coolant temp is not a way to judge what oil to run !

however most engines are needing either a 0 or 5w/ ? as a basic guide with the cold weather now upon us

My bad, didnt read post properly regarding what temp you were monitoring

Oil temp is very load dependant it's also subject to whether or not you have an oil cooler and also a sump undertray

Howver as mentioned ambient temp/viscosity are inportant factors in chosing your oil

[Guest]

 driftrex said:

no oil has a low temp rating and high temp rating, it will protect at both levels, as said above you need to do some research on oil vicosity so that you understand it properly.

that's not exactly true either. the advantage of the low winter grade (0W or 5W etc) is that it flows when cold. It does not protect as well as when hot. Higher viscosity oil will protect more (all other things the same) but does not flow at cold temperatures, so will not be present in all parts of the engine immediately upon start up. the idea is to minimize the damage done at start up by getting the oil to flow more easily and get to all parts of the engine, because even if it does not provide its optimum level of protection YET, it is better than nothing. once it heats up, and becomes more viscous, the protection is correspondingly greater.

[Guest]

Your really want oil to be about 90C to boil off contaminants in your engine oil

[Guest]

 Qwerty said:

Your really want oil to be about 90C to boil off contaminants in your engine oil

i can't seem to get it that high unless im in traffic, on the motor way it sits real low like 75c, i might give 5w/30 semi syn a try and see what happens, is this grade alright for forged pistons?

[Guest DMSREX]

If you have a built engine you generally run a ticker oil as the tolerances are not as tight as factory. Unless you live where Temp is regularly -10c i wouldn't use 5w XX anything. Given that its a GC8.

[RAYDEO]

i run penzol(sp?) Diesel motor oil, my engine builder told me to use it and i only found out it was suposidly(sp?) made for diesels when i went to buy some, (avilable form repco) not sure of the grade... will post a pic of it when i get home...

[Guest]

 DMSREX said:

If you have a built engine you generally run a ticker oil as the tolerances are not as tight as factory. Unless you live where Temp is regularly -10c i wouldn't use 5w XX anything. Given that its a GC8.

Please explain...

[Solja]

ive used valvoline vr1 semi synthetic 10-40 on a rebuilt v3 engine for last 15k and plan on sticking with it

[Guest]

 Solja said:

ive used valvoline vr1 semi synthetic 10-40 on a rebuilt v3 engine for last 15k and plan on sticking with it

BEB fcuked out on that stuff lol, prob had nothing to do with it running a BEB but it won't be going any where near my car, the 22psi prob killed it.

Ichi Ban......what would you recommend/use on a built bottom end?

Thanks.

[Guest boostcut]

10-40 magnitec is good or that new fandangle edge stuff.

[Guest dynofiend]

 Swindog said:

Itll sit where it sits mate. Cooler the better. Thats why people put in oil coolers.

Are you on glue?

People fit oil coolers to cars which are getting up to oil temps which are over the upper reaches of the oils resistance to breaking down. Typically around 130C for a fully synth. There is absolutely no problem with the oil being under its maximum temperature, even by only a couple of degrees, all the time. In fact, there is very little harm if it actually goes over its upper temp rating every so often. However, there is GREAT harm in it being under its recommended operating temperature, and indeed fitting an oil cooler to a car which does not need one, is extremely bad for it. Some oil coolers have sandwhich plates which are thermostatic, but these have been bench tested and found to be ineffective at stopping the oil from circulating through the cooler even when the oil is cold. Which leads to the car taking longer to warm up to 'safe' operating temps, and in some cases, never reaching those safe operating temps.

If you are using a 0-40 or 10-40 oil, then this is absolutely fine for the temperatures your car is likely to experience in NZ. If you spend alot of time above the snow line in winter, and are running a 10-40, then switching to a 0-40 may be beneficial, but not exactly necessary.

[Guest]

Heheh watches with interest

[ReubenH]

I use Castrol edge 10w-60 in my built motor with the forgies... but that's in auckland, and in a warm part that doesn't even get frost...

BTW

Dunno if subies do this, but the oil coolers in some planes don't circulate the oil at low temp, they only start opening up and circulating oil when the oil starts getting warm.

Would love to know if subie coolers do this.

[Guest boostcut]

they would have a thermostat. you can buy a thermostat for automotive oil coolers for bout 150 for a good one... i have one in my kit for sale.

[Swindog]

 dynofiend']

[quote name='Swindog said:

Itll sit where it sits mate. Cooler the better. Thats why people put in oil coolers.

/quote]

Are you on glue?

People fit oil coolers to cars which are getting up to oil temps which are over the upper reaches of the oils resistance to breaking down. Typically around 130C for a fully synth. There is absolutely no problem with the oil being under its maximum temperature, even by only a couple of degrees, all the time. In fact, there is very little harm if it actually goes over its upper temp rating every so often. However, there is GREAT harm in it being under its recommended operating temperature, and indeed fitting an oil cooler to a car which does not need one, is extremely bad for it. Some oil coolers have sandwhich plates which are thermostatic, but these have been bench tested and found to be ineffective at stopping the oil from circulating through the cooler even when the oil is cold. Which leads to the car taking longer to warm up to 'safe' operating temps, and in some cases, never reaching those safe operating temps.

If you are using a 0-40 or 10-40 oil, then this is absolutely fine for the temperatures your car is likely to experience in NZ. If you spend alot of time above the snow line in winter, and are running a 10-40, then switching to a 0-40 may be beneficial, but not exactly necessary.

I AM ON GLUE! Unfortunately im also on yo momma. jokes.

Ive been misinformed obviously. Apologies grand master. Carry on

[Jammasta]

 Swindog said:

Unfortunately im also on yo momma. jokes.

OH

SNAP!!!

HEEEYOOOOOOO!!!!

[THUNDA]

15w40, was using 10w30, thought it was a bit thin for the age of my engine

[Guest dynofiend]

 Swindog said:

I AM ON GLUE! Unfortunately im also on yo momma. jokes.

Ive been misinformed obviously. Apologies grand master. Carry on