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I'm curious as to why you've basically claimed another forum member has limited or no knowledge without ever meeting them or engaging in proper discussion. To me it looks like a fair bit of sausage-stroking; why attack another member's credentials? Trying to prove something, or simply having a bad day?

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You guys really need to get back to the topic. The heads off the EJ20R where pretty good in their day. The late model heads with AVCS and shimless lifters are much better though. Just look at the sort of power that people are getting out of near stock Spec C engines to see that the late model heads flow rather well.

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Precisely why I casually suggested them :) There is a lot of potential in those newer heads. The price tag is a match though. In the long run the 20R heads would be worth salvaging from the original pwnt engine, put together with a more robust shortie for a cheap-ish rebuild. Potential and longevity definitely found in above late model AVCS heads though.

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For what the original poster wanted the EJ20R heads will be perfect. I wouldn't bother with the EJ257 unless you want to spend the extra for better ECU and are chasing some decent power. A rebuilt EJ20R with factory or aftermarket internals will be fine for factory levels of power.

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i heard that the ej20r had really advanced timing and all we have here is piss 90 octane. i have been talking with my tuner who does work on my car and the other subaru cars (snow performance water/meth injection kit for my v7 sti) and he said i would have a hard time keeping that stock ej20r in one piece. also he has said that liittle or no tuning will be needed with the ej257 swap, also it would drastically decrease the vod with the added displacement, so another big bonus there. my knowledge is limited when it comes to the jdm stuff though. i know alot more about the usdm stuff due to my proximity to the states, i also know a fair bit about the ej207. but the earlier engines just confuse me, there are some ej20g that are fully closed deck, some open; but all with the same engine designation?!?

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  • 3 weeks later...

i am in the middle of a decision at the moment my ej20R is about to get the rebuild treatment as well

im just thinking for the price of a closed deck is it really worth getting one as the twin turbos do tend to rev a bit more? or is the closed deck only beneficial for higher boost and torque? i was thinking more along the lines of bearing movement? will that help with it? or will the ej20R open deck be fine?

will a closed deck increase reliability

car is standard apart from split rails and prova ecu so small timing advance 18psi max with 98+ octane 2.75" catback muffler and de snorkle 8000rpm(not that i would hit that)?

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 gtlegacy said:

i am in the middle of a decision at the moment my ej20R is about to get the rebuild treatment as well

im just thinking for the price of a closed deck is it really worth getting one as the twin turbos do tend to rev a bit more? or is the closed deck only beneficial for higher boost and torque? i was thinking more along the lines of bearing movement? will that help with it? or will the ej20R open deck be fine?

will a closed deck increase reliability

car is standard apart from split rails and prova ecu so small timing advance 18psi max with 98+ octane 2.75" catback muffler and de snorkle?

Closed deck blocks are not necessary for most average HP requirements but as they are so cheap you might as well.

Open deck blocks can handle 250kw@wheels without stupid RPM or boost levels (up to 24psi)

You could dowl it, (cheapest way) but a closed deck would get better results as the head gasket has more surface to seal with.

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im more worried about block surfaces at the other end moving?

with the headgaskets is there a seal problem at the deck surface you are refering to?

i dont plan on hitting 7500 often im just looking for the ideal motor just incase i do and the cost is not much reallyfor a block if it improves the chances of me not having to shell out again for an engine rebuild

what do people think of the ej20R internals

i know the crank is forged? what about the rods and pistons semi forged ? forged? everyone seems to say something different

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Few opinions on Big end bearing failures; Poor maintenance is one.

If you maintain 5000k oil change intervals with good quality oil and keep an eye on levels thats your cheapest insurance.

PM Ichi Ban if you have concerns with Oil delivery to the Big ends, he will be able to clear it up better than I.

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