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Price of certs?


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Does anyone do cheap certs in aucks? Just want to maybe get struts certed but is the only thing needing to be certed on the car so cbf paying $500 for a safety check it doesnt need imo.

Or are they all the same price?

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All pretty much the same price- feel free to correct me if im wrong fellow members but as far as im aware from what a certifier told me they only make around $100 per certification issued . . about $330-360 goes to the government :-\

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My understanding is that a large part of the cost is what the certifier has to pay LVVTA to get the paperwork done and a new cert plate stamped. So you\'re probably paying about 4-6 hours labour (which is fair enough, they check a LOT of things) plus maybe $200 to LVVTA. Typical cost is $400+gst.

I\'ve spoken to a few mechanics who aren\'t interested in becoming certifiers because it\'s actually a lot of to-ing and fro-ing with both the vehicle owner and the LVVTA, the overall pay for it works out a lot worse than regular work and most of the time neither the owner nor the garage is really interested in getting much of the remedial work done by the certifier.

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this is why I will never understand the "need" to install "coil-overs/adjusties"

cos it just snowballs and are pretty pointless anyway : Like Personalised plates (IN general : some are neat)

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 boon said:

My understanding is that a large part of the cost is what the certifier has to pay LVVTA to get the paperwork done and a new cert plate stamped. So you\'re probably paying about 4-6 hours labour (which is fair enough, they check a LOT of things) plus maybe $200 to LVVTA. Typical cost is $400+gst.

I\'ve spoken to a few mechanics who aren\'t interested in becoming certifiers because it\'s actually a lot of to-ing and fro-ing with both the vehicle owner and the LVVTA, the overall pay for it works out a lot worse than regular work and most of the time neither the owner nor the garage is really interested in getting much of the remedial work done by the certifier.

Same as wof work only money in work it generates.

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nah different kettle of fish, since the cert guy is rarely the one doing the remedial stuff

their bread & butter would be stuff like certing flat decks, truck bodies, bullbars etc wouldnt it? can only deal with so many bogans certing struts and removed abs systems before youd go mad haha

i think wheel size used to be a cert req too - like 3 inch over stock meant cert? no idea if it was/is still the case tho, i was never baller enough to worry about it

just call around, its worth having it just so if pulled up its all above board, rather than having them go "no cert, time to look closer" - like a wof sticker its generally a case of if you have it, youre waved on - without it they wonder why and start to look closer

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oh agreed. $300 is a fckload for having a plate stamped and someone typing a quick blurb in a database for sure

if it wasnt for that cost youd see a lot less uncerted cars around for sure, $500 is a big hit for most peeps

does make you wonder how all the hellasikflushedabocsticker19x12on215s crowd get by with not having a permanent pinky though, no way most of them get certed as they drive daily suuuurely

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It\'s a pain in the arse if you have to get re-certed but in the grand scheme of keeping it legal-tegal and knowing it\'s safe (it\'s a VERY thorough safety check, at least with my certifier...) it\'s not that much to spend.

When you\'ve dropped $2k on suspension, $1600 on rims, $1000 on a turbo, $1000 on exhaust, blah blah blah, $500 for a bloody good check-over and something that helps a LOT if you get stopped by the po isn\'t really that much.

But yes, if you\'ve just made one small change to a certed car it\'s a pain in the rectum.

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Most adjusties are cheaper than a cert. Street car adjusties for looks mainly not lap times. Without the dyno sheet they have no proof of it being over the threshold powerwise and and everything else is legit, stock turbo etc. Car built on a budget.

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 evowrx said:

Most adjusties are cheaper than a cert. Street car adjusties for looks mainly not lap times. Without the dyno sheet they have no proof of it being over the threshold powerwise and and everything else is legit, stock turbo etc. Car built on a budget.

If people only care about looks/budget they are much better off getting lowering springs and staying above the 100mm threshold...

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To a degree. Ive got king super lows in the rear but their listings are fried for gf8s. They sit probably low 30mm drop. Need ultra lows to possibly get it level instead of jacked in the rear. With adjusties i can get it exactly where I want it and it wont handle like a sackos***. Out adjusties in rear of foz to get it just right and it stiffened up the rear a whole lot. So much nicer to drive.

Not everybody lowering their car for looks want its sitting on the chassis rails.

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