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Diff clunk noise when car is hot?


zeflasher

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Hello everyone,

So I got myself a Legacy 99 GT few days back.

The car drives really well, ...

When I bought it, the seller told me that I could hear a clunk sometimes when turning tight at low speed and the car is hot and that was normal. "It comes from the aftermarket differencial" was the only answer I got to "why?".

So I experienced the clunk which happens:

  • only occur when the car is warm. When the car is cold, I have no problems turning
  • occurs at tight, low speed turns; the kind of turns associated with parking, turning at a stop sign, etc (30+? degrees, again at low speed only)
  • I feel and hear a clunk/stutter/kick at a rate of 1 per second (per wheel rev?) for the duration of the turning, once I straighten, there are no problems. It is easy to feel the kick, I can feel it through the steering wheel, shifter, and passengers can feel it in their seat. A passenger noted that it seemed like the whole car shook. There is also a feeling of resistance (hard to explain sorry)
  • Turning the wheel while stationary doesn\'t present any problem
  • Other than the kicking, steering feel appears to be consistent through the ranges. No apparent loss of power, heavy or light steering, etc.
  • No apparent whine or other related noise when turning

So I\'m kindof new to all this and was wondering if it\'s something expected with aftermarket differencial or not at all... And if not what should I check.

Or could it come from something else? (Coilover??? the car has been lowered)

Any ideas / feedback / suggestion would be very welcome...

Thanks heaps,

Xavier

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Hello again,

So yesterday I went to a autoelectrician friend (we are changing the sound system, ...)

There is a ramp to access his workshop and we had to jack the front so the bodykit wouldn\'t touch the top of the ramp (I hope you get what I mean)

Anyways, while doing this, we found out that NO POWER were sent to the back wheels.

Front wheel were spinning (on the jack so free) but the back wheel on the ramp were not giving any power (the car was not moving).

Tell me it\'s also due to the center diff please ...

Cheers,

Xavier

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ah don\'t worry, i was in a hurry and misjudged something lol!

the edited of what i wrote earlier!

Your center diff should be a viscous LSD unit, but from what you said it seems like it\'s acting as open diff which indicate the center diff is rooted!

Power (torque to be precise) follows the path of least resistance, in an open diff that would be the wheels that were jacked up!

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Thank B4 2000.

So it does mean the center diff is completely gone right.

I mean if the center diff was ok I would have had torque in the rear wheel (like in my previous 96 suby, as she took the same ramp few years back and was able to drive up)

Cheers,

Xavier

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  • 2 months later...

Good timing for the resurrection.

I dropped my car today to the mechanic and it will cost me 2000$ :/

The part itself (center diff) brand new is 1500.

I could have gone for a second hand one (some people on the forum I\'m sure have some) but as I want to keep this car for as long as I can (it can) I decided to invest...

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 kwi_fozze said:

second hand phase 2 dif replacement is much stronger than the phase one, bolts straight in (i believe) and can be picked up second hand for nix...

Incorrect its the opposite. I have the stronger phase 1 option complete with housings/selector etc.

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