Slotted rotors or tein lowering springs??

[GC8E2DD]

Are you modifying for aesthetics or for performance/ trackability?

[RallyTechNZ]

Love to modify but would like to hit the track a couple times a year

 GC8E2DD said:

Are you modifying for aesthetics or for performance/ trackability?

[Heylin]

 RallyTechNZ']

Love to modify but would like to hit the track a couple times a year

[quote name='GC8E2DD said:

Are you modifying for aesthetics or for performance/ trackability?

/quote]

Hitting the track 2 times a year wouldnt really constitute slotted rotors or lowering springs. Lowering a car to much (anything > 30mm) will enhance bump steer and chnage geometry to much, and most likely screw your factory shocks which arent designed to go that low.

If you need a braking boost

a) get your rotors machined

b) buy some EBC Green stuff pads

c) change your fluid to Elf dot 5.1 (synthetic performance from a mineral fluid)

Handling wise in order

a) good grippy tyres (Falken FK452, Hankook Ventus 12, Toyo Proxes 4 or T1R)

b) nolathane bushes

c) shocks and springs + top hats

d) underbraces

e) overbraces

Coilovers (unless fully customised) will always be to hard for NZ road use, for daily driving and occasional track you cant beat a good matched spring \ shock insert combo (Bilstien, Koni inserts with a quality progressive spring.

Ive modded many cars over the years (Cosmo, MR2AW11, MR2SW20 and 05 Legacy GT) always found the best approch \ path

1) service the car with good fluids

2) polish the car

3) basic mods first (tyres, intake, exhaust, shocks, springs)

4) asthetics (wheels and paint)

5) mid level mods (ecu tuning, manifolds\downpipes, bushes, intercooling)

6) high level (Turbo, ECU, Injectors, Fueling, Engine internals)

[Guest]

Ill call bullshit on the coilovers. I found D2\'s mint on the road driven hard or soft. Need to remember they have damper adjust. Will see how the BC Golds go. If using lowering springs shorten the shocks.

[nickch]

fantastic points here...

Re brake, there is no one best brand to get, as it depends on your budget.

Whats been mentioned here is a good recommendation.

Read up on DS2000, Pagids EBC brands for brake pads.

Alternative to the Elf fluid is the Motul RBF600 which is almost always recommended for track days.

You don\'t need to commit so early to coilovers if you focus on other parts of your suspension, such as braces, anti-roll bars..

You will find that replacing cheap bushes and adding anti roll bars will give you the biggest night and day feel to how the car handles..

 Heylin said:

Hitting the track 2 times a year wouldnt really constitute slotted rotors or lowering springs. Lowering a car to much (anything > 30mm) will enhance bump steer and chnage geometry to much, and most likely screw your factory shocks which arent designed to go that low.

If you need a braking boost

a) get your rotors machined

b) buy some EBC Green stuff pads

c) change your fluid to Elf dot 5.1 (synthetic performance from a mineral fluid)

Handling wise in order

a) good grippy tyres (Falken FK452, Hankook Ventus 12, Toyo Proxes 4 or T1R)

b) nolathane bushes

c) shocks and springs + top hats

d) underbraces

e) overbraces

Coilovers (unless fully customised) will always be to hard for NZ road use, for daily driving and occasional track you cant beat a good matched spring \ shock insert combo (Bilstien, Koni inserts with a quality progressive spring.

Ive modded many cars over the years (Cosmo, MR2AW11, MR2SW20 and 05 Legacy GT) always found the best approch \ path

1) service the car with good fluids

2) polish the car

3) basic mods first (tyres, intake, exhaust, shocks, springs)

4) asthetics (wheels and paint)

5) mid level mods (ecu tuning, manifolds\downpipes, bushes, intercooling)

6) high level (Turbo, ECU, Injectors, Fueling, Engine internals)

[loner]

 evowrx said:

Ill call bullshit on the coilovers. I found D2\'s mint on the road driven hard or soft. Need to remember they have damper adjust. Will see how the BC Golds go. If using lowering springs shorten the shocks.

It\'s not BS, and they have no travel (unless they cost $15,000) which means you\'ll never have all 4 wheels on the ground. I would only put them on a dedicated track car.

[Pappu1]

I have had different height springs on front and rear as to keep the look even out

Have had to to that the rear is lower than front ( wheel to guard area) and lowering them the same mm makes the rear look saggy

Went with 25mm front and I think was 10pm rear to gt the same height front and rear

(or something similar as can\'t remember the exact numbers)

Anyway don\'t like the look of heavily lowered gdb shape just slightly lowered as the guard gap is a horror in stock form

Also have driven extra lowered ones and the handling is not as good

If u wanting to hit the track as well as keep a decent looks just get some nice adjustables and that way u can set it up to the way u want and cAn get camber etc done to suit ur liking etc

[Guest]

I had 30mm lows on sti struts then went to D2. D2 rode a hell of a lot nicer and only time it would cock a wheel is pulling into angled driveways. Wheels dont lift off cornering it starts to slide before that happens and on T1R not linglong. You race on racetracks tho I drive on roads so can only go so fast.

[johnny5]

Boon is correct the car will never handle as good when you lower it.

anything past 30mm will hurt it even more I reckon depends on what your trying to achieve

[RallyTechNZ]

Yep dropping 30mm then getting some mags to fill the gap more and got braces coming :-)

 johnny5 said:

Boon is correct the car will never handle as good when you lower it.

anything past 30mm will hurt it even more I reckon depends on what your trying to achieve