5th gear jumping and popping out V6 STI

[shore_boy]

 Eight dollar said:

? why are you pulling the whole box - the input shaft locknut can be done by removing the tranfer case only

Just following the tutorial above and having some issues due to the underside brace so a bit more removing was necessary just to get to where I am now. Not going to get into the starter motor or anything else in the bay all will be done underneath from now. Also getting the drive shaft out after removing a few extra pieces like the exhaust is easier Trying to make it as easy as possible even if it means removing a few more parts, but that\'s never the case with aftermarket parts...

If you have some tips for me drop them down. Even if you tell me i shouldn\'t have removed "xyz" it\'s appreciated.

Cheers.

[kamineko]

to be fair, he\'s working without professional tools and its his first time opening a box. it may be more work but dropping the box completely seems like a good option to me

[Guest]

I had a look at my spare today its slipped ever so slightly. The nut measures 1 3/8" so 35mm would do it if I had a thin wall socket that would work. What do you people use to tighten it?

[shore_boy]

 evowrx said:

I had a look at my spare today its slipped ever so slightly. The nut measures 1 3/8" so 35mm would do it if I had a thin wall socket that would work. What do you people use to tighten it?

Have to use a rattle gun i believe. Because if you try to torque it up the input shaft will just start to turn. That\'s how i\'m going to tackle it anyways. Will also use the gun to remove the gearbox fluid bolt as i don\'t want a repeat...

[Guest]

I have means of tightening it more the socket wont fit as the walls are too thick if you know what I mean.

[Eight_dollar]

Knock the roll pin out of the 5th selector fork

Select 1st or 2nd with the shift rods , then slide 5th fork to engage 5th gear

This will lock the box as it is in two gears - tighten the nut with a strong arm (rattle gun can cause issues)

Then slide out of 5th- refit pin and de-select 1st or 2nd (depending on what you engaged)

a machined down socket is priceless to ensure no damage is done to the rev syncro hub

[shore_boy]

 evowrx']

I have means of tightening it more the socket wont fit as the walls are too thick if you know what I mean.

Fark that\'s a big socket! looking at the pics in my first link looks as if there\'s a lot of room? Do you know if the teeth around the main bearing move with the nut whilst tightening it? If they do you could lock them up and tighten the nut. When I get round to tightening mine ill let you know how i went about it.

Or this?

[quote name='Eight dollar said:

Knock the roll pin out of the 5th selector fork

Select 1st or 2nd with the shift rods , then slide 5th fork to engage 5th gear

This will lock the box as it is in two gears - tighten the nut with a strong arm (rattle gun can cause issues)

Then slide out of 5th- refit pin and de-select 1st or 2nd (depending on what you engaged)

a machined down socket is priceless to ensure no damage is done to the rev syncro hub

[Guest]

Ive got the box out on the ground standing on its end so itll be a whole lot easier than doing it under the car on axle stands the way I do everything else lol.

Machined down socket is only way I can see it fitting like mike said.

[Eight_dollar]

if you stand the box on its end (if you decide to remove it to)

make sure the bell housing is supported on so that the input shaft isn\'t loaded with weight

[shore_boy]

 Eight dollar said:

if you stand the box on its end (if you decide to remove it to)

make sure the bell housing is supported on so that the input shaft isn\'t loaded with weight

Was thinking the same.

[shore_boy]

 evowrx said:

Ive got the box out on the ground standing on its end so itll be a whole lot easier than doing it under the car on axle stands the way I do everything else lol.

Machined down socket is only way I can see it fitting like mike said.

Too true, removal is the best option but by no means the easiest. I think i\'m going to be ignorant and go for the rattle gun just out of convenience for myself. I do understand what eightdollar (Mike?) said regarding the reverse syncro\'s but i don\'t know enough to follow his procedure and i don\'t want to drop the box.

[Guest]

 shore_boy']

[quote name='Eight dollar said:

if you stand the box on its end (if you decide to remove it to)

make sure the bell housing is supported on so that the input shaft isn\'t loaded with weight

/quote]

Was thinking the same.

3x2 either side does the trick keeps it steady also.

[shore_boy]

Just a few photos of my current issue and one for proof of the damage. Took a modest photo with the finger all in tact after a day in a bandage, no dangling bits.

The following photos are of my problem due to the space permitted by the brace. The dripping fluid put a smile on my face as my efforts weren\'t completely futile.

[shore_boy]

Took the brace off today and Emptied the box of fluid. Is it normal to have a lot of metal shavings in the fluid and stuck to the magnet on the bung?

Also pulled the drive shaft out.

All that is left to do is the linkages and then the transfer case. Hoping to have it all done tomorrow and on the road Sunday!

Do I need to have the car in neutral/in gear? Does it matter? I imagine having it in neutral would be beneficial when dismantling the linkages.

[kamineko]

it doesn\'t seem to matter, you can move the linkages by hand

to remove the transfer case, first remove the top access plate and remove the grub screw that holds the reverse protection to the linkage. this will free up the linkage so you can unhook it from the selector rods

that should make sense after you remove the top plate and have a look. gazzy2000 may have pictures of this in his centre diff replace thread

[shore_boy]

Finally got the transfer case off this morning. Came out in two pieces as i wasn\'t aware how big the thing was. Still learning!

When we finally broke the gasket seal the case was hesitant to come out and the NUT FELL OUT!! I am lucky it didn\'t turn into a projectile and tear through my box. It looks to be in decent condition as it is now so I\'ll put it back in and do a better job of staking it in. Along with the nut out came what I think is the 5th gear synchro? (photo below). Bearing feels worn and you\'d imagine so with the nut so damn loose.

Just some photos of it all disassembled waiting for a clean and lube.

Tranny oil smells like shet... Whole garage smells of it.

[shore_boy]

 kamineko said:

it doesn\'t seem to matter, you can move the linkages by hand

to remove the transfer case, first remove the top access plate and remove the grub screw that holds the reverse protection to the linkage. this will free up the linkage so you can unhook it from the selector rods

that should make sense after you remove the top plate and have a look. gazzy2000 may have pictures of this in his centre diff replace thread

Cheers mate. Just came a day too late. Got a puzzled on the spring pin as i didn\'t realise there was one within the other.

[Guest]

Good work dude.

[kamineko]

ahh, good job there. i wasn\'t expecting you to disassemble it in situ

[shore_boy]

 evowrx']

Good work dude.

Thanks, taken me quite a while now.

[quote name='kamineko said:

ahh, good job there. i wasn\'t expecting you to disassemble it in situ

I wasn\'t expecting it either. I just didn\'t know the depth of the transfer case so it ended up coming off in two parts. I basically split it on removal. That\'s two gaskets to be replace now Have you got any suggestions as to how i should go about cleaning off the pieces of gasket on the faces of the transfer case? I don\'t wan\'t to damage them at all.

[kamineko]

i\'ve just used a bare stanley blade, petrol and patience. a workshop usually has a similar thing attached to a screwdriver handle

the gaskets are fairly cheap. you could probably get away with silicone gasket goo on the last section, i havn\'t used it on the transfer-to-main housing in case of clearance issues

[shore_boy]

 kamineko said:

i\'ve just used a bare stanley blade, petrol and patience. a workshop usually has a similar thing attached to a screwdriver handle

the gaskets are fairly cheap. you could probably get away with silicone gasket goo on the last section, i havn\'t used it on the transfer-to-main housing in case of clearance issues

I have the replace the synchro looking \'thing\' that came out too as the bearings feel really worn. I hope that it\'s cheap also. Gaskets are about $20 ea from Subaru from my past experience.

Ill keep your method in mind and also try with a sharp chisel as that is what I have at home. I have a feeling that something sharp, fluid (petrol) and a great deal of patience will see me through the process.

Last questions would be just any information regarding replacement of the transfer case. I\'m going to fully assemble it before I install it as I imagine that it will make the parts more rigid when it comes time to fit it again.

Secondly on the very back of the transfer case where the drive shaft is inserted there is an \'o\' ring. Is that replaceable?

[kamineko]

 shore_boy said:

I have the replace the synchro looking \'thing\' that came out too as the bearings feel really worn

this is the very last bearing set inside the selector hub in this picture?

it doesn\'t do much work, my understanding is it holds that weird shaped bracket that prevents the selector ring assembly floating away when reverse is selected. i\'ve always found them to be fairly loose. of course if it appears damaged then look for a 2nd hand one - i\'m not sure its a serviceable part

there is a thin removable circlip holding the bracket to the bearing, you can remove for closer inspection

 

Last questions would be just any information regarding replacement of the transfer case. I\'m going to fully assemble it before I install it as I imagine that it will make the parts more rigid when it comes time to fit it again.

just the reverse order of disassembly. keep in mind the 2 splines on the driven shaft need to mesh inside the diff. you may need to rotate the front stubs and rear driveshaft stub a little to assist. it\'ll be obvious when the case mates up nicely to the main housing when you get it right.

the gearshift linkage can be tricky, make sure the gearbox is in neutral and you should be able to hook into the selector rods before the case mates fully with the main housing. when wiggling the linkage against the hooks, the mechanical feedback should be enough for you to feel its correct. after the cases are mated, re-insert the grubscrew and you should be able to select all gears, and invoke the 5th->reverse protection lock.

 

Secondly on the very back of the transfer case where the drive shaft is inserted there is an \'o\' ring. Is that replaceable?

yes its replaceable. if leaking there already? then replace. otherwise its good insurance but up to you

[pl0x]

I\'ve changed 3 centre diffs and used kitchen knife/Stanley and then three bonded up and never had a leak. Was never overly carefully about getting all the gasket off either. Three bond is good stuff

[shore_boy]

Got myself some goodies today ready for install on the weekend.

Also shopped around for a new synchro/bearing set (after Subaru quoted $890+GST!!!) and was lucky enough to have All Subaru Parts World come across this! It\'s a little different to mine but it\'s out of the exact gearbox so I can only assume that mine is incorrect which may indeed explain the issues. Will find out who is right on the weekend!