Rosssub

BE/BH replacement inlet hose for TT?

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My inlet hose is knackered (BH5b), 200,000kms+ and the bend at the primary end is folding over in front of the turbo inlet and restricting about 1/3 causing an amusing boost whistle among other things.

Looking at replacement options: do I need a specific \'Rev B\' inlet pipe to suit? Does my Rev B have a 50mm primary inlet compared to Rev D 60mm primary inlet? Are there other differences?

I could go second hand that could be as old as mine:

http://www.partsworld.co.nz/parts/subaru/legacy/2117-bh5/71-turbo-inlet-pipe/355579697

Or aftermarket silicone through ebay for rev E with 60mm primary:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-liberty-legacy-B4-Rev-E-Twin-turbo-silicone-air-intake-pipe-induct-hose-/331044986222?vxp=mtr

Has anyone sourced one locally? Or priced new OEM? Or have any better options?

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Either buy new/second hand oem replacement or personally I\'d be buying the aftermarket one and just making it work. Only thing with the eBay one is I\'m not 100% if the vacuum fittings are quite right (no major) and obviously you\'\'ll need to either clamp down the primary a bit or fill the gap out somehow (not hard since it\'s non pressurised)

For what it\'s worth I had the same problem, my solution was just cutting the stock inlet pipe and replacing with a 2 inch 90 bend haha

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I wanted to cut the original and put a 90\' bend in but the BOV plumback hose hole is to close to the primary now, also I would be clamping onto corrogations.

That Ebay silicone one would work but I was hoping someone like Perrin/tomie etc make one for the TT, as they have steel inserts in the vac and recirc hose holes

suction_main.jpg

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Just got a call from my only local Subaru shop, nothing available new in NZ OEM but possibly ex japan at $389 + GST + freight from japan.

Strong\'s can do second hand OEM for $235 + GST + $50-$70 freight.

Edit: And I just tried to buy the cheap ebay one but waiting/hoping for seller to add NZ shipping price, so can\'t as yet.

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If you could send me a PM with the shipping cost once you know that would be tops. Im looking at doing the same thing ~B revision

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$219.18nzd delivered ($125+$55 shipping USD)

The Ebay seller added NZ to his shipping list for me then changed it back. But said he would do it again and seems genuine.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Subaru-liberty-legacy-B4-Rev-E-Twin-turbo-silicone-air-intake-pipe-induct-hose-/331044986222?vxp=mtr

They\'re \'W S Racing\', which google\'s to a European racing outfit?

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He\'s a member on here as well too, different username though. Knows his stuff

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New inlet pipe arrived today, less than a week from China. I\'ve got maybe another week till the new thermal inlet gaskets arrive to sort out fittings and hose attachments. I\'ll list details of all sizes/spacers/hoses etc that I use to make this fit my VF26/27.

FDk0Kd6.jpg

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Bits needed:

sV8UbVC.jpg

-I got the BOV adapter machined today for $25, could of just stretched my hose over but wanted a perfect fit, any piece of 28-30mm copper pipe would probably do but I\'m fussy and don\'t want anything stretched.

-Secondary relief valve is a perfect fit

-The Primary spacer is 2 x 25mm long off cuts from silicone joiners, 1 x 1&1/2" and 1 x 1&3/4". Fits perfectly.

-Secondary turbo is perfect fit.

-Hose 10 vac fitting is the 6mm gates.

-Vac port by secondary relief valve is blanked off/not used on Rev B.

-Crank case vent under throttle body is blanked off/not used on Rev B.

-Crank case vent by alternator is the 12mm gates joiner

-Inlet from air box is perfect fit.

But the OEM nipples for vac and crank breathers are all 35mm long so could just be cut off and re-used.

Sitting the new pipe on engine I can see I\'ll have to trim 15-20mm off in front of both turbos and maybe 25mm out of the center join.

Primary end ready to go: Adapter, spacer and 6mm gates

UYQAWqY.jpg

Secondary end ready to go: Relief valve, blanking bolts and 12mm gates

1cpyxyc.jpg

Edit: The other crank breather under throttle body is 10mm and Vac port near secondary is 5mm

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This is why it\'s all happening, secondary is just as bad, I\'m pretty sure this is causing:

-Harder/takes longer to start

-Low idle on start up

-Boost spikes

-Very poor fuel consumption

-Lack of power

-Pinging/Detonation under load at low revs

-Adding to VOD

-Slower spooling

OfHmDDG.jpg

And here\'s a Dimensions pic Haven\'t found yet but could have been handy:

tk5rzoL.jpg

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You sir are a legend! Didnt want to be the one to test things by fitting the intake to an earlier model, but now you have done it for me! Massive help ;D

P.S someone with powers ,please sticky! (looking at you batman)

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Glad it\'s helping somebody, thanks to Telemekas/Zanzarah for getting the original made.

OEM inlet pipe is fixed midway on 2 brackets (seen below), so the new silicone pipe could heat, soften and droop to sit on the block. I\'m going to cut slices out of the OEM pipe where the bracket mounts are to make plastic loop brackets to go around the silicone. Have also tied a Double layer of 2 inch heat wrap to the under side of the new pipe.

KAswCGR.jpg

ktboxS1.jpg

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Also only just clicked that the 25-30mm long off cut from the secondary outlet(47-60mm dia) is the perfect spacer for the primary side. ;D

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Manifold came off this avo:

Qjz732X.jpg

Trimmed 30mm off Primary, 25mm off Secondary and 30mm from secondary side of join.

Qe591WF.jpg

Underneath of intake manifold, dirty old inlet pipe. I was wrong, the centre crank case breather is needed on rev b. I\'ve just cut the OEM nipple off and re-used it:

a7mY8Zx.jpg

New pipe fitted to mani, had to remove drivers side fuel rail to remove original and fit new one in. It\'s a tight fit under the metal fuel lines, I have 5mm spacers under the feed/return line mounting bolts so the new hose isn\'t squashed.

u3i8zxH.jpg

All the OEM rubber fuel hoses under the manifold are pretty perished/hard and not far away from leaking so I\'ll replace them before it goes back on.

HhPmFBt.jpg

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Going off that link it can be done pretty easy with the manifold on. So I won\'t worry about for now. Maybe next on the list.

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Do it now. It gets rid of your hard lines under the mani just change them to efi hose rail to rail then t piece in the middle.

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