I'm finding that my Sequential controller works better when it's switched off

[2000 legacy b4]

After installing it today i\'m abit disappointed as I found when it\'s turned off it pulls abit harder so to me this would mean that it isn\'t doing it\'s job right and costing me some power ??? It also doesn\'t really reduce the VOD that I can tell " which it why I brough it". I am sure there is only one way of wiring it up other wise it wont work haha so figure I\'ve got that part right. But raising the cross over point is working. Any one got any ideas ???

[2000 legacy b4]

Just adding that in the wet tonight when it\'s switched off it would light up the wheels however if you turned it on you\'d have almost full traction.... I don\'t want traction control :L

[Marky]

 2000 legacy b4 said:

Just adding that in the wet tonight when it\'s switched off it would light up the wheels however if you turned it on you\'d have almost full traction.... I don\'t want traction control :L

I am skeptical of your B4 barking up 4 wheels

However relating to your sequential controller a) are you positive you hooked it up right

b) do you have a boost gauge and what does it say

c) are you really sure it\'s not just a placebo effect - it shouldn\'t have any change to the running of the car apart from the switchover point, that\'s it - it doesn\'t alter any MAF readings as far as I\'m aware

only possible thing I can think of is if it\'s "somehow" only half opening the exhaust valve or leaving the secondary BOV open

[Rosssub]

Did you solder all joins or use easy splicers? Most likely bad connection or wiring fault. Also there is a small black reset button behind the controllers front panel.

[2000 legacy b4]

 Marky']

[quote name='2000 legacy b4 said:

Just adding that in the wet tonight b]when it\'s switched off it would light up the wheels[/b] however if you turned it on you\'d have almost full traction.... I don\'t want traction control :L

I am skeptical of your B4 barking up 4 wheels

However relating to your sequential controller a) are you positive you hooked it up right

b) do you have a boost gauge and what does it say

c) are you really sure it\'s not just a placebo effect - it shouldn\'t have any change to the running of the car apart from the switchover point, that\'s it - it doesn\'t alter any MAF readings as far as I\'m aware

only possible thing I can think of is if it\'s "somehow" only half opening the exhaust valve or leaving the secondary BOV open

Bro. They are cheap tyres haha don\'t worry it can I\'ll re check the wiring and try the reset button!

[2000 legacy b4]

 Rosssub said:

Did you solder all joins or use easy splicers? Most likely bad connection or wiring fault. Also there is a small black reset button behind the controllers front panel.

Before I started I labeled all 9 wires at the ecu so I knew what was what then from there I did one at a time till it was all connected.

[2000 legacy b4]

[boon]

I virtually guarantee you\'ve wired it in wrong. Where did you get your wiring diagram from?

[Joker]

probably free boosting when its off

[Rosssub]

 2000 legacy b4']

[quote name='Rosssub said:

Did you solder all joins or use easy splicers? Most likely bad connection or wiring fault. Also there is a small black reset button behind the controllers front panel.

/quote]

Before I started I labeled all 9 wires at the ecu so I knew what was what then from there I did one at a time till it was all connected.

Looking at your pic it looks to me like you have the right wires labelled. Did you solder splice wires 1-5? Then 6-9 get cut, \'loom side\' of cut end goes to plain zs wires but \'ecu side\' of cut goes to zs whitnstripe wires?

[2000 legacy b4]

I didn\'t solder them because I didn\'t know if it was going to work, But it is a good connection, Yeah white stripes are going to the ecu, I might go out soon and re check it with the above diagrams supplied.

[2000 legacy b4]

 JoKer said:

probably free boosting when its off

The controller doesn\'t have anything to do with the boost side of things, The gauge reads the same boost switched on or off tho

[loner]

 2000 legacy b4']

[quote name='JoKer said:

probably free boosting when its off

/quote]

The controller doesn\'t have anything to do with the boost side of things, The gauge reads the same boost switched on or off tho

Interesting, yet somehow it synchronizes the boost levels between two turbos...

[Joker]

yea what would I know : its not like it alters the switch-over point or ECV in any way : oh wait it does that too

[Marky]

Well, technically you\'re both right and wrong

Boost control is supposed to be done solely by the wastegate on the primary turbo alone

The ECV is not a boost control device *except* if it is being pre loaded to bring the secondary up faster with the secondary relief valve open - same as the factory arrangement via the top port of the ECV actuator (Hose 5?)

So if it was doing this, then you would see lower boost on the primary turbo IF it is taking away enough exhaust flow to stop the primary make full boost - I saw this with the aftermarket ECU I had for a while as well, boost would float around a little bit as the secondary got pre spooled sooner than normal

It doesn\'t synchronise boost levels - what the ZS controller does is fiddle the timing of the solenoids for the ECV and relief valve to change the way the switchover happens, -and- fudges the signals to the ECU so it doesn\'t pack a sad from the changeover happening sooner or later than it is supposed to

TL;DR It shouldn\'t have any effect on the outright power of the car or boost levels except for maybe dulling the response of the primary depending on what it is up to and how you have the physical preload on the ECV arm setup

[2000 legacy b4]

I don\'t run the factory boost control, Brought a gfb atomic

[B4 I was 250T]

So is it worth getting a ZS controller? What exactly ( in extremely basic terms that a noob like me will me will understand) will it do for me??

[Rosssub]

With a TT, YES definitely. OEM change over from single to twin is just over 4000rpm, with the ZS controller you can adjust the change over rpm, I have mine set to 5000rpm for around town, so I can go a little higher between gear changes without it wanting to change to twin.

But the main reason is VOD (valley of death), loss of boost at change over as the ECV pre-spools the secondary for smoother transition and to bring the secondary up to speed. The ZS controller takes over and can half you VOD, giving faster change-over. I had a terrible VOD now it\'s pretty much gone ;D

[B4 I was 250T]

reducing VOD is enough reason for me. Given my lack of technical and mechanical expertise, this would be better to get professionally installed yeah?

[Rosssub]

Needs 9 or 10 wires spliced into specific ECU loom wires. It\'s not too bad if you can read a wiring diagram and use a soldering iron.

[loner]

 Rosssub said:

Needs 9 or 10 wires spliced into specific ECU loom wires. It\'s not too bad if you can read a wiring diagram and use a soldering iron.

And find the correct wiring diagram, and aren\'t color blind

[B4 I was 250T]

Oh well I\'m f****d then lol *jokes*

[2000 legacy b4]

I think mine is better now but yeah.. Still not that impressed by it.