STI Modifications prior to remap

[DOCS]

Hi all,

I\'m looking for advice as to things i should do prior to getting my v7 STI remapped.

I recently purchased and down here in Queensntown we dont have 98 petrol.

So i plan to take it to dunedin or CHCH for remap as alot of people on this forum have highly recommeded.

Currently my 2001 V7 Wagon has the following mods.

-Full aftermarket exhaust including downpipe

-Alliminium Radiator

-Pod Filter

-Adjustable suspension

-GFB manual boost control

-external wastegate

-Heavy duty cluthch

-BOV

Can anyone give me any other small mods that should be made pror to tune to get better performance results?

500HP Fuel pump??

Thanks in advance,

[Kiwi_Fozze]

i\'d get the GFB electronic controller, or at least a 3 port solenoid, as these can be controlled by the stock ecu and are much safer and reliable than a manual bleed valve. the tuner should be able to get these set up nicely for you.

a new fuel pump is cheep insurance against under fuelling, always worth the $$$.

EWG can also be controlled by the stock ECU and again, your tuner should be able to get this set up for you

your pod filter, is it ducted down into the guard liner? or inside the engine bay? if inside engine bay, duct it into guard, or put stock airbox back into the car. you\'ll be loosing performance if inside engine bay, as it\'s sucking in HOT air from around the motor.

i assume you have a cert for the adjusties and EWG?

your BOV can cause idle issues, but these can be worked around with a group n tune, but that\'s a totally different kettle of fish lol

[Marky]

Why does it matter if he has a cert

Id add fmic to that list, for the cost of a kit these days I dont know why you wouldnt

[ryn]

What would front mount achieve over tmic? (Dumb question)

[Kiwi_Fozze]

less (no) heat soak, can run more agressive maps as the charge is colder, as opposed to the TMIC which heats up to something freaking mental in traffic.

[ryn]

Ah thanks mate. maybe something I\'ll look into for mine.

[Kiwi_Fozze]

i\'m starting to do the same LOL

[DOCS]

Cool, thanks for the info.

I\'ll spend around 2g maybe more...on the extras and tuning.

Tuning I have been told around $500 , walbro fuel pump $180ish

There is a range of Frount mounts,what is a good brand that will fit the bill?

Gfb boost controller?

Anything else that would be ideal I\'ve missed?

What can I expect for mechanical time?ive got a couple of friend mechanics but if they arent keen to do it what would be a rough cost?

Thanks in advance.

[DOCS]

 kwi_fozze said:

i\'d get the GFB electronic controller, or at least a 3 port solenoid, as these can be controlled by the stock ecu and are much safer and reliable than a manual bleed valve. the tuner should be able to get these set up nicely for you.

a new fuel pump is cheep insurance against under fuelling, always worth the $$$.

EWG can also be controlled by the stock ECU and again, your tuner should be able to get this set up for you

your pod filter, is it ducted down into the guard liner? or inside the engine bay? if inside engine bay, duct it into guard, or put stock airbox back into the car. you\'ll be loosing performance if inside engine bay, as it\'s sucking in HOT air from around the motor.

i assume you have a cert for the adjusties and EWG?

your BOV can cause idle issues, but these can be worked around with a group n tune, but that\'s a totally different kettle of fish lol

Yeah it certified for the adjusties, unsure about the waste gate. Should it be certified for this?

No my pod filter is just where the airflow meter would have been by the looks of it.

I\'ll def get that plumbed down to guard duct.

Cheers for the info

[Scoobydoo]

All the things you are looking at should be done, definitely do the Fuel pump as well, with a Walbro or similar. I\'d also recommend an FMIC, they do have a bit of a gain on a tuned car.

As far as controlling the boost goes, I\'d have a chat to whoever is going to be doing the tune, to see what they recommend. There\'s no point iin getting one kind of electronic controller, if they aren\'t experienced in setting it up. Greddy Profec B\'s are popular, as are the GFB\'s and HKS, but the latter are more $$.

[Kiwi_Fozze]

 DOCS']

[quote name='kwi_fozze said:

i\'d get the GFB electronic controller, or at least a 3 port solenoid, as these can be controlled by the stock ecu and are much safer and reliable than a manual bleed valve. the tuner should be able to get these set up nicely for you.

a new fuel pump is cheep insurance against under fuelling, always worth the $$$.

EWG can also be controlled by the stock ECU and again, your tuner should be able to get this set up for you

your pod filter, is it ducted down into the guard liner? or inside the engine bay? if inside engine bay, duct it into guard, or put stock airbox back into the car. you\'ll be loosing performance if inside engine bay, as it\'s sucking in HOT air from around the motor.

i assume you have a cert for the adjusties and EWG?

your BOV can cause idle issues, but these can be worked around with a group n tune, but that\'s a totally different kettle of fish lol

/quote]

Yeah it certified for the adjusties, unsure about the waste gate. Should it be certified for this?

No my pod filter is just where the airflow meter would have been by the looks of it.

I\'ll def get that plumbed down to guard duct.

Cheers for the info

ewg needs certing, yes.

install of the things can be done, to a point, yourself. obviously a FMIC needs some adjusting of the bumper etc to get it to fit

[Guest]

Technically the fmic will need a recert to. Mine was certed as part of the ticket as it was there.

[boon]

Consider direct-wiring your fuel pump\'s power feed while you\'re swapping the pump out. It\'s about half an hours work, $40 of parts and it guarantees stable voltage to your pump under load.

[ADIKT]

 boon said:

Consider direct-wiring your fuel pump\'s power feed while you\'re swapping the pump out. It\'s about half an hours work, $40 of parts and it guarantees stable voltage to your pump under load.

can I have more info on this mod please? Doing fuel pump on mine when the g4 goes in

[boon]

Run a piece of 10ga wire to your fuel pump location, fused in the engine bay at 30-40A and connected directly to the battery.

Get a Bosch 4 or 5 pin relay.

+12v goes to your new wire

Switched terminal goes to the fuel pump connector (or all the way to the pump if you\'re ambitious)

Trigger (relay coil) goes to the old fuel pump power feed

Ground goes to ground

If you have a V7 or newer this may throw a CEL from the fuel pump controller. Also results in a slightly louder pump and slightly decreased pump life as it runs the pump at full duty cycle all the time. But so do a lot of cars - and if you\'re running a Link you shouldn\'t get a CEL.

[ADIKT]

 boon said:

Run a piece of 10ga wire to your fuel pump location, fused in the engine bay at 30-40A and connected directly to the battery.

Get a Bosch 4 or 5 pin relay.

+12v goes to your new wire

Switched terminal goes to the fuel pump connector (or all the way to the pump if you\'re ambitious)

Trigger (relay coil) goes to the old fuel pump power feed

Ground goes to ground

If you have a V7 or newer this may throw a CEL from the fuel pump controller. Also results in a slightly louder pump and slightly decreased pump life as it runs the pump at full duty cycle all the time. But so do a lot of cars - and if you\'re running a Link you shouldn\'t get a CEL.

Mint - have saved this to my \'to do\' list

Will do this along with: DW fuel pump, fpr, split rails and larger injectors/rails

[boon]

Not much point in doing FPR unless you need to squeeze the absolute maximum out of your injectors. But if you\'re doing split rails you have to?

[ADIKT]

 boon said:

Not much point in doing FPR unless you need to squeeze the absolute maximum out of your injectors. But if you\'re doing split rails you have to?

no need to if splitting. The oem works well.

I want it to future proof it. Get it all done at once

[hijacka]

 boon said:

Consider direct-wiring your fuel pump\'s power feed while you\'re swapping the pump out. It\'s about half an hours work, $40 of parts and it guarantees stable voltage to your pump under load.

I wouldn\'t think you would need it with a drop in, I noted a increase of .2 volts when i changed out the 16year old factory pump for the 400lph walbro, i think it comes down to the efficiency of the pump/current draw etc, can\'t speak for the metal gear wb but the one im running with factory bag on it doesn\'t need it

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Walbro-400-LPH-Fuel-Pump-Universal-In-Tank-Fuel-Pump-Installation-Kit-F90000262-/321138641771?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ac55acb6b&vxp=mtr

[DOCS]

So after talking to my mechanic he is going to do the following...

Walbro fuel pump

Boost controller boost gauge.

Water/methanol spray.

Tune.

Looking forward to it.

Thanks for your help.

[raijin]

You don\'t need a boost controller. The OEM ECU is capable of providing 3D boost control i.e. determining boost levels per rpm and which gear you are in. Also your ECU can run twin boost maps switched by a combination of your defog switch and throttle angle if properly set up and mapped so don\'t waste your money on a boost controller.

[Kiwi_Fozze]

 raijin said:

You don\'t need a boost controller. The OEM ECU is capable of providing 3D boost control i.e. determining boost levels per rpm and which gear you are in. Also your ECU can run twin boost maps switched by a combination of your defog switch and throttle angle if properly set up and mapped so don\'t waste your money on a boost controller.

the stock v7 sti maps don\'t have per gear boost control, only compensation.

the 3 port boost solenoid controlled by the ecu is the best setup, but adjusting the maps for that is a bastard of a job, and time consuming.

the twin boost maps set up is a group n tune feature, not the best thing for a normal user to be running daily driven, as the ecu maps need regular resetting and adjustment of fuel trims constantly.

unless you spend a couple of weeks on a dyno.

[raijin]

My point it is possible to control target boost level by gear using the V7 Sti ECU per gear compensation which is beyond the functionality of most EBCs apart from the like of the Apexi AVCR.

On the OEM VF turbo set up the standard 2 port boost solenoid works very well in my experience if a correctly sized restrictor pill is used and the car is properly mapped. Mapping a 3 port boost solenoid should not be time consuming for an experienced mapper if the correct base WG duties, integral and proportional TD settings are dialed in at the outset.

Also it is possible to set up twin boost maps on the V7 Sti ECU without using the group N Rom which you refer to.

In summary, a software patch can be applied to the OEM MAF based Rom which allows the user to switch between the MT and AT boost and WG tables on the fly using a combination of throttle position, RPM and the application of the defog switch. This functionality works very well on road cars and does not require any regular resetting or impact on fuel trims (nor should it on the Group N Rom if correctly set up in the first instance).

[Kiwi_Fozze]

you wouldn\'t be able to point me in the direction of this "patch" would you? as it\'s the first time i\'ve seen or heard of a patch being available to do this with the stock ecu

[raijin]

PM sent 8)