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normal vacuum presure at idle


dvs-b4

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Guest Eastwolf

Oh... phew, I was wrong...

the reading at "6 o'clock" is actually -0.5bar =)

It stays around there somewhere when cruising and goes further neg when engine braking.

Same as you guys.....

gawd, someone has really bad txt language above.... !

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 Bazza-NZ said:

Mine reads

Cold = -20PSI

Warm = -25PSI

Hot = -30PSI

During idle the vac changes, due to what i believe is an vac leak somewhere (i just can't find it as of yet)

NOTE - Boost guage is T'd at the BOV to manifold pipe

Just as an update i found my leak, has cracked around the BOV connection... couldn't of seen it while on the car as its underneath... but i heard it

brokenpart.jpg

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 dvs-b4 said:

thats a nasty crack bt would that couse your vacuum to skyrocket like that? isnt the bpv closed untill u release the gas? so it shouldnt realy afect the vacuum? please correct me if im rong

Well i put a temp pipe on for the mean time and it seem to have stable out the idle and is sitting back at -20 again... i think that it caused the car to run rich in which turn then made it idle funny and the changes in idle caused the different vac pressure reading...

Am waiting now till i get either a replacement or aftermarket bit before i can say for sure tho...

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 dvs-b4 said:

ohk yea that makes a bit of sence now. people with aftermarket bovs have a big problem with that so iv herd

Yeah, i had an aftermarket one before and i just hated it, never really worked well and when cold the car wouldn't idle right.. i reckon that the standard factory ones are good enough for my application anyways... this way the measured air gets returned back into the system instead of to atmosphere

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  • 2 years later...

going back in time 3 years hahaha

i had my vacuum checked from my manifold yesterday and it was reading 13...

he seemed to think my cam timing was out. car feels fine cept on boost where it surges

after any advice really

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trace all he vac leads from the manifold, sensors, and WG across the engine bay.. :) check for popped hoses, cracks, or holes... fairly manual task.

Also check for any leaks from the turbo through your intercooler to the throttle body, joins often pop if you run a FMIC and you've not done one up tight enough. or a pinched joiner in a TMIC setup. (car usually runs like a bag of shit though)

What turbo / ecu / intercooler do you run and in what version car? Do you run an EWG? or an EBC or MBC?

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