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WHAT POWER CAN FACTORY MAIN STUDS HANDLE


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lol. it amazes me that someone building a motor capable of 450 kw would come on here and ask that question.

makes me think that you don't have a sh1t show of making an engine that can handle that power level.

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 loner said:
lol. it amazes me that someone building a motor capable of 450 kw would come on here and ask that question.

makes me think that you don't have a sh1t show of making an engine that can handle that power level.

it amazes me too. I heard from ppl thy be fine then i hear from others change them. Thought id ask the good ol clubsubbers as theres alot of knowledgable ppl on here.
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 nextlevel said:
it amazes me too. I heard from ppl thy be fine then i hear from others change them. Thought id ask the good ol clubsubbers as theres alot of knowledgable ppl on here.

Seriously though, if you are going to build a subaru engine capable of 400 to 450 kw, you must have built many engines

in the past and have attained a whole lot of first hand knowledge... surely.

Edited by loner
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 lachlan said:
wtf are you going to do with a 400 kw wrx ? is it a race car or just for bragging ?

Drag car in low 11s iirc.

Get a proper builder dude dont want to end up fckd over, out of pocket and car like minhaaj.

As for the q theres no real answer they could cause issues at any level. Replace them with arp if shooting for 350wkw- as you will only want more later.

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Lol ARP 260-4701 can be had for about $250 fairly sure factory subaru oem headstuds will cost about that anyway and you certainly wouldn't re use them.. not that i think they will handle 400kw so why would you even consider using factory studs when your doubling the factory output? i would use L19

Edited by hijacka
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FWIW when your finshed torquing the head down leave it over night and re torque the head the following day.. i end up with 95lbs on a/b and 90 on the rest using arp have always found the next day will need another 5lbs or there abouts

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whoops main studs.. hmmm factory will be fine just makesure you replace the seal washers.. arp would be alot better! they have a very nice mains tud kit thats worth getting imo you'll pay around 500 for it but its a nice bit of kit

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 hijacka said:
FWIW when your finshed torquing the head down leave it over night and re torque the head the following day.. i end up with 95lbs on a/b and 90 on the rest using arp have always found the next day will need another 5lbs or there abouts

To throw a cat amongst the pigeons, any reason you torque to a value rather than to stretch?

I'm cautiously building my first motor at the moment and anything like that is getting done to a stretch value not a twist one... partly because so much can affect torque value, like lubricated vs dry threads, whereas stretch (and inherently clamp force) is a constant.

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lol at measuring stretch on the the main studs . yeah def measuring stretch on something a foot long in thou .

like the training for just about every industry standard in every thing says . "as per manufacturers recommendations"

im against re torquing stuff . unless specified . you will find you are just squashing the head and can keep torquing for ever if you did . the proper clamp ( seal ) is achieved as a by product of bolt tension vs material compression . re torquing it isnt acheving anything than maybe removing some elasticity of head / block that is probably required .

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 boon said:
To throw a cat amongst the pigeons, any reason you torque to a value rather than to stretch?

I'm cautiously building my first motor at the moment and anything like that is getting done to a stretch value not a twist one... partly because so much can affect torque value, like lubricated vs dry threads, whereas stretch (and inherently clamp force) is a constant.

If you use arp head studs you use the lub that comes with it and install to there specs however i go 30/60/85/ then 95lbs on a and b and 90 on the rest. just remember to leave it over night and re-do the last sequence, Oem bolts are stretch bolts thats why you do 90' swings backoff blah blah.

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 lachlan said:
lol at measuring stretch on the the main studs . yeah def measuring stretch on something a foot long in thou .

like the training for just about every industry standard in every thing says . "as per manufacturers recommendations"

im against re torquing stuff . unless specified . you will find you are just squashing the head and can keep torquing for ever if you did . the proper clamp ( seal ) is achieved as a by product of bolt tension vs material compression . re torquing it isnt acheving anything than maybe removing some elasticity of head / block that is probably required .

Subaru case bolts are a bit of an exception really. But rod bolts, that kinda thing, if you dig hard enough the manufacturer usually does specify a stretch value as well as a torque option.

As long as it works though, I guess.

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 evowrx said:
Drag car in low 11s iirc.

Get a proper builder dude dont want to end up fckd over, out of pocket and car like minhaaj.

As for the q theres no real answer they could cause issues at any level. Replace them with arp if shooting for 350wkw- as you will only want more later.

True is manaj car screwd . Nah im building again. Already got all the parts just purchased arp main stud kit 2 hours ago online thats the last peice of the puzzle. .

10sec the goal this nytwars. Already got 11.4 missing all the way down lol

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Actually measuring the stretch is impossible on the case BOLTS because you cant get at the other end when tightening to make a measurement and they are BOLTS!. head studs etc are possible. angle torque is the most accurate method when stretch cant be measured.

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