GC8E2DD

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GC8E2DD last won the day on February 1 2017

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319 Well that esculated quickly

About GC8E2DD

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  1. Put a new header tank in. Also replaced knock sensor. Thanks again Partsouq.
  2. Oh really? I'd have thought axial play was worse than thrust.
  3. The rear plastic C links are terrible for deforming and cracking. I have even seen one snap clean in half on a friends GF8. I would definitely go for an alloy replacement a la Whiteline or other.
  4. The dog bone style may not even fit alloy LCAs. I got the Whiteline ones (identical car) but in hindsight I should have gotten adjustable BNT ones which are identical and cost a fraction of the price; spend the rest on oil, brake fluid, pads.
  5. You'd be best to go talk to someone from your local car club who regularly races a Subaru at tracks. Or someone like Al MacLennan in Wellington who has looked after lots of people's Subaru race cars. Anyone considering a hub swap, here is some sweet non-cert suspension: https://www.trademe.co.nz/1675536862
  6. I have a VF36, but I haven't put the Link in and tuned it yet. I can't use WOT at the moment because it immediately hits boost cut. I can say that it seems to build boost faster than the old VF24.
  7. Combo of heat and loading I think. Our cars lean a lot of weight on the outside front wheel.
  8. All bearings FO if caned, but yeah, the bigger ones last longer by all accounts. I think Caspros got his front hubs machined at Macbilt to accept bigger bearings.
  9. Wait, what. Old race car?
  10. What are those eyes on the left for?
  11. If the actual controller is bung (and not just some shorted wiring or something), then get one of these to replace it: http://mapdccd.com/
  12. You can use http://jp-carparts.com/subaru/carlist.php?maker=subaru to compare part numbers. Essential pre pickapart trip reference. Always check the price and availability on partsouq.com for new parts. Some new parts aren't actually that expensive. It's just that our local dealers have the screws turned up too tight.
  13. Yep, pretty much asked for 2° neg camber up front, minimal front toe out, minimal rear toe in. Quite happy with 1° camber in the rear. Not sure why my caster is wonky; subframe may not be sitting straight.