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Thanks, practice in a slow car has made me a lot faster, but always room to improve still! Hillclimbs, autocrosses and track days all just generally need a fire extinguisher, overalls and a helmet. Ohh and you need to be a member of a motorsport NZ affiliated club and then a motorsport license, both these things are easy to sort out though. Very few hillclimbs/sprints require a cage, it's generally only when the road is quite dangerous (ie like Shelly Bay in Wellington which is cliffs on one side and ocean on the other).

My 05 6MT 3.0R is currently sitting on 11km/litre doing the commuter run. We're in the process of swapping the other vehicle for a 10 2.5 CVT BM, which I'm expecting to sit up around 13 or 14km/litre. As for 91, just no. They're still the same engines, just better knock correction programmed in. They're gutless pigs on 91. For the extra $2 a tank, run 95 minimum.

Definitely obd2 Elm327 chips won't read em, need to hunt around to find adapter that will, or just buy a tactrix. iPhone as far as I'm aware doesn't play nicely with subies, I'd strongly recommend an Android app called btssm, works mint

Even with the amount of time i’ve spent tinkering with mine i’d swap it for a Spec B if I was in the same position as you. Attached to mine aswell but i’d keep everything i’d changed and chuck it in the new one and be just as happy. It can be a tricky one if you can’t afford to have a bit of an overlap with having both at the same time though. @gotasuby or @Subirex Automotive might be able to have a stab at a super rough estimate. They are getting alot more common so there must surely be a couple of stacked ones with good drivetrains out there.

Depends on the club and the course, many sealed hill climbs down here don't require cages or log books, but do require a motorsport club license or day license.

Sweet, thanks for your feedback. After thinking about it, I'm gonna go with the cheap solution : - new front rotors from BNT - replace front pads by Znoelli SP500 - change brake fluid Should be enough for what I do. I don't usually like having different stuff at the front and the back of the car but since there's more weight at the front and the car tends to understeer, I think it should be fine. If it's not it's easy to upgrade the rear in a second time. EDIT : Which means that the LGT brakes that @Subirex Automotive is selling are still available. Had a look at them today, there's indeed plenty of meat left on the rotors but I would recommend skimming them before using them with other brake pads. I could be wrong but it looks like they were used with cheap brake pads.

Cable tie them to the roll cage ?

What is going on here? From what I can gather you are willing to spend a lot of money, to try and save money? How does that even work? Buying a new car to save money is a complete fallacy, used by many a man to justify a new vehicle to his better half. Be realistic, if you are buying a new car, it's not to save money.