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Installing a VF22- Problems . .


caspros

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So, we're currently installing a new turbo on the 1998 WRX STI RA.

Got the old VF28 turbo off, but having real problems getting it to attach back to the oil return house.

Has anyone actually swapped out these turbo's before, and how did you reattach it ?

Somewhere else it says :

"it's possible to pull the turbo out without releasing this clip - the clip's spring design giving this degree of flexibility."

However, it appears that clip released.

So, we're really stuck here, not sure of the next step.

Any help would be appreciated.

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Nope, it's still there. neither failed or broken.

The problem is, you can't keep it open when pressing down on it. It is impossible to get to. Are you saying to take the whole pipe out ? Then how do you re-attach it to the bottom ?

If you tried to hold the clip open, you can't push in the turbo oil down pipe thing.

Have you done this before ?

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This is probably no help but when I did mine the inlet manifold was off so it was easy to get too. What if you unclamp the hose completly?, attach it to the turbo then once all bolted back in reattch the other end last? if you can reach it from underneath

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just checked a copy of a workshop manual i've got, you should be able to reach it from the top with a long pair of long nose pilers.

if you PM me your email address i'll send you the engine section of the manual if you like

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How did you get to the hose clamp to do it up ? We can't even get it in the pipe, it kinds just moves it to the side. ( so, yeaahh, oil fell out on first start )

There just isn't any room to get to the clamp, the pipe, or anything for it.

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Yeah like i said. Might pay to take the up pipe out mate if your having probs.. sounds phucky i know but might be the best way cos itll just keep blowing oil otherwise. My turbo and uppipe and down pipe are all out so i went bought some high temp oil line from Enzed and used boiling water to soften it up and pushed like crazy then slid a hose clamp on the other end. Havent attached the line to turbo yet as its on and off until the rest is welded. Easiest way i can see.

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Cool thanks everyone. We're trying to do the pipe without anything else attached, and still can't get it. As soon as we press the turbo down, it bends, and we can't get to it to straighten it up. Let's see what the manual says . . .

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Guest keltik

On my td05 swap the pipe was old and slightly petrified so it stayed straight as i pushed the new turbo down onto it. As its not a pressurised line i never bothered installing the hose clamp.

While its not an ideal situation - it will at least make your car driveable. And hey after 5,000km mine never leaked

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 keltik said:

On my td05 swap the pipe was old and slightly petrified so it stayed straight as i pushed the new turbo down onto it. As its not a pressurised line i never bothered installing the hose clamp.

While its not an ideal situation - it will at least make your car driveable. And hey after 5,000km mine never leaked

When i got my car it didnt have a hose clamp on here and after me having it for about 2k it started to leak like nothing, slapped a clamp on and it was algood

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Hi All,

OK, yesterday we managed to get the turbo mounted on the pipe. It required a girl with little hands.

So we put the whole thing together, and just started it up.

Currently it is doing the following :

1) Very Smokey ! From around the exhaust housing flange thing. Can't see too much because of the heat shield

2) Revs high, about 2,500-3000, even when warm

3) The fans don't seem to turn on even when it reached middle of the temperature gauge.

We've tried to do this thing for about 8 hours now ( but it is sunny, so I can't complain too much ).

Currently I am leaning towards just putting it on a flatbed out to Al Mclennan this afternoon/tomorrow, as maybe this is just outside our basic skill level.

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Guest keltik

Coolant temp sensor aint plugged in - that explains the high idle (i think) and lack of fans. The smoke will be exhaust sealant and spilled oil burning off (maybe a leak on the high pressure side?). You gotta get things decently hot for that to go away.

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Cool, thanks for your help. Hmm, where would the coolant temp sensor be ? I hope we don't have to remove everything to find it :(

And, I bought new gaskets for it, so didn't use any sealant.

There's just sooo much smoke, like it was smoking for a good 5 minutes.

However, there was no oil on the ground this time.

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Guest keltik

Yeah mine smoked like a bitch untill id given it a good drive into town and back. Coolant temp sensor will be under the intake manifold in the middle going into the coolant crossover pipe.

Any check engine lights on?

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UPDATE !

OK, the smoke burnt off after a few runs bedding in the brakes.

The fans started after we massaged some air out of the coolant, and the high revving stooped when we CRC'd the throttle cable.

Then out for a test drive and everything went fine.

Possibly too fine, as one the first foot flat go, it boosted to 1.5bar.

I think 1.5bar is too high, though I will get it checked for fuel.

But does anyone agree that this is too high ?

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Guest keltik

1 bar ran fine on my stock Legacy. Id imagine 1.2-1.3 bar would be safe for a WRX. But yes 1.5 seems a little high

Maybe the RA is just extra awesome?

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 keltik said:

1 bar ran fine on my stock Legacy. Id imagine 1.2-1.3 bar would be safe for a WRX. But yes 1.5 seems a little high

Maybe the RA is just extra awesome?

woah yer.. your 22 wont like that at all.. at 1.5 bar your running about 22psi,

18psi is about all you want to run.. 1.2ish bar max.

the VF's tend to eat compressor wheels running any more than 18psi consistently

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