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Clutch problem


WRXONP

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I was in a rush this morning but I could push the clutch fork as if my hand was the slave and it was easy as to push in . . . . . But wouldnt if I had some sort of clutch fork problem I would still have clutch grip ? It slips really bad lol . . . .

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 sti8u']

[quote name='funkytown said:

the box is still easier on the ground.. but its your car.

I had almost the same symtpoms as you just this week. We pulled the box and somehow the release bearing came away from the cage that holds it to the pressure plate.

clutch people said its a freak thing that happens on occasion - my clutch fully went floppy though - i.e fork came away all together. The snap ring off the back of the cage breaks off.

Through the inspection hole id imagine youl only be able to see if the release bearing is attached to your clutch fork and thats about it. We couldnt see what had happened on the pressure plate.

p.s harden up - 5mts are easy as piss. put in the 6mt and then tell me a 5mt is tricky

/quote]

wont say no to that!the 6speed boxes like farking huge compard to a 5speed

its algood thoe thats why yu got mmates brad!il help yu lift it out.im sure spencer wont mind helping out,easy as ;)

Mmm.... but yea im sure all the gbox changes i've helped marc with has trained me enough :P twinny twin twin and im do-able

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 rex-leggy said:

im guessing you gave the car a good thrashing when you got the controller in?

maby the shear power scared the clutch into hibernation :P

if the slave and master cylinders working then it sounds like a pull the engine job :-[

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there are 2 methods

#1)

remove the starter motor - and you will find a big hex shaped bung on the side of the bell housing. use hex key and remove bung - insert small long bolt into end of the pin exposed in the hole. its like an m6 or so.wind it in a touch then use the m6 bolt to extract the pin - fork is now removable

#2)

split the box off the engine slightly - so you can fit a large flat blade screw driver down to the release bearing. insert between the cage edge and the release bearing and twist apart. This is a little hard if you haven't done it before or understand how it works.

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So im in the process of pulling the gearbox and I just noticed the left rear axle was about 1 inch out of the diff ? Now funny thing is this use to be rear wheel drive and I remember him saying it always snapped the left rear axle . . So I bet money on it that he left the clip off the axle for easy refitment lol . . . Now onto the question . . If my rear dif is a open dif would this cause the same symptoms as a slipping clutch ? Ie spinning the spider gears ? The reason this is seeming to make sense is I slipped it all the way up my long steep drive way this morning and couldn't smell clutch ?

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Ha ha .. . . I hope it is . . But fark I just got all the stuff up front un bolted so not sure if I should re fit it all and check ha ha . . . . . . Do LSDS all ways have a sticker ? Mine has nothing . . . If I go to turn the wheels the other wants to go the same direction like a LSD but I can very easily turn them both opposite directions (spinning spider gears) . . Because this all makes sense as I just tested before I took it apart and I was getting a metal on metal sound ? Still no clutch shudder . . . As im guessing all the grip + shudder is disappearing through the spider's ? Lol anyone got a inner rear CV clip ?

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if they turn the same direction then it is a LSD of some sort,I have a diff here that is out of a legacy that has a viscous LSD in it and it has no stickers on it...

The viscous does not need a special oil, unlike the clutch type so they may not badge them as a LSD

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Ah yes well I definitely can spin them easily in opposite directions . . So guessing its a open wheel. I cant get the axle to come out of mesh with the car jacked up but my thoughts are that since I have a low ride height that the inclination on the axle will let it come out further thus making it not mesh .. .. .. Sound plausible to you ha ha

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 wrx_lou said:

Yep, seen a mechanic do a clutch change in his coupe in under 45 mins. Obviously he had the use a hoist and s*** but still has to be easier than pulling the engine.

REALLY !!!

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PS pulling the box is way faster !

You'll spend time bleeding coolant etc if ya pluck the engine

Total time to pull engine, do clutch, refit etc - Around 4-5hrs

Total time to pull box, do clutch and refit etc - Around 2.5 -3 hrs

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So re fitted the starter and every thing else and went to drive it too see if its the problem and the axle poped back out . . . . Dont those stubs have 2x splines ? Will get a clip and wack it in and see if its the case . . . Also how much free play should the clutch fork have back and forth with the slave removed ?

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