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Intake Systems \ Airfilters


Heylin

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Looking into options

- OEM

- Dry drop in (AEM Dry Flo, Cosworth, Blitz SUS Power)

- Dry pod with cold air box.

Worth it for stage 2 upgrades + reflash ?

Also how often do you guys replace ? previous cars ive done every 8,000 kms with the oil, which for me will be annually. (dont travel much).

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just get a k&n panel filter, get rid of the resonator box thingy in the guard and run a nice big pipe instead. factory box will easily flow what you want out of your car. also pods especially wet arent too good for insert style afm.

i would have a factory box in my wrx if i didnt have front mount piping in the way.

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 evowrx said:

just get a k&n panel filter, get rid of the resonator box thingy in the guard and run a nice big pipe instead. factory box will easily flow what you want out of your car. also pods especially wet arent too good for insert style afm.

i would have a factory box in my wrx if i didnt have front mount piping in the way.

dont K&N panel filters require oil ??

Looking at an AEM Dry Flow for $103NZ delievered, washable, no oil required, filters to 1 micron and exceeds OEM flow, would use a K&N again except for the oil issue.

I figure since freeing up the exhaust system the OEM filter could use a little freeing up as well.

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 evowrx said:

i think you are right tbh ive never owned one only pod styles.

sounds like a good option at a good price and cant do any harm anyway.

K&N seem to have a different take on the whole oil issue and undertook their own testing with an overoiled filter flowing 1000cfm for 12 minutes (ie alot of flow), zero oil contamination.

Seems the whole dry filter thing is piggyback on the myth of MAF failure due to oiled K&Ns, or perhaps less superior filters.

So mabey K&N is actually the better option :), if I can find one for under $100 :) 33-2304 model for ours.

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 lunchie said:

I wouldnt risk an oiled filter in any subbie worth anything! I have heard nothing but horror stories

Is the Subaru MAF different to other MAFs that make them more susceptible to any minute amount of filter oil getting through ?

Not saying there havent been horror stories but are they proven to be attributed to K&N filters and oil ? or oiled filters of other brands, or different brand filter oils ?

My MR2 was MAF sensored for a good 4 years of its life running K&N oiled filters and never had an issue.

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K&N tested 350 of their customer ones where dealers were not honouring warrenty due to running the K&N, majority were internal circuit failure not attributed to oil, no traces of oil could be found on them either.

Im still not 100% out on the K&N yet, if they can pump 1000cfm through a over oiled K&N and not get a drop I fail to see how a VF38 flowing 400cfm max can suck through oil.

I wonder if the failed ones with oil were people skimping and using non genuine K&N oil which is a waxy type vs thin minieral oil.

http://www.knfilters.com/maf/massairfindings.htm

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it all comes back to your decision. i would put whichever in my own car long as it wasnt a supercheap foam filter self destruct type.

the main point im making is the airbox is going to keep intake temps down and will do the job. sounds like youre doing your research anyway.

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Due to Subaru's "hot wire" type AFM, the K&N or any other oiled filter causes trouble as the oil end up on the element and the AFM after time burns out.

While MAF do let you get away with oiled filters, you still can get oil contamination.

Apexi filters were the go a while back.

Nothing wrong with OEM air box, CAI and paper filter, zeropsorts intake pipe and a Samco inlet hose kit.

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Oem panel filter, oem box, snorkelectomy, cold air duct into the wheel arch. Seat of pants dyno says improvement, better sound, comes on boost a little faster too

Imho, stay clear of pod's, afm killers with no real improvements unless well cold air boxed (expensive for minimal gains on standard car)

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I see Simota do a drop in filter that can be run dry or oiled.

- stainless mesh

- non woven material

- blue :) worth an extra 10HP

Had good results with my simota pod filter for many years on MR2, which also ran an AFM.

$43 for filter + $35 for cleaning \ oil kit + $8 delivery = < K&N or AEM Dryflow.

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speedsource fitted a simota pod to one of my cars ran them ever since. well priced and the base is urethane not rubber so they dont crack like some of the cheapies. just get one. im guessing thats through broomfish?

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 evowrx said:

speedsource fitted a simota pod to one of my cars ran them ever since. well priced and the base is urethane not rubber so they dont crack like some of the cheapies. just get one. im guessing thats through broomfish?

Yeah Broomfish.

I washed my MR2 pod in simple green and used K&N oil every 5000 kms for like 3 years. Intake was dry as a bone inside. Put down 185 rwkw on stock ct20b running 18psi using that intake.

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Last time QYKCHK (98 sti no mods apart from cannon at rear of exhaust. Still has all cats) was on the dyno we did a test of an oem filter vs a brand new well known high end brand.

This was with all stock items under the hood..

The car showed NO gain in kw with the high end filter.

This was compared to a oem filter that had been in the car for 20,000kms.

There was no change in peak KW or torque curve and AFR's were bang on the same..

Even the tuner was surprised.

I say stick with oem..

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 madmike said:

Last time QYKCHK (98 sti no mods apart from cannon at rear of exhaust. Still has all cats) was on the dyno we did a test of an oem filter vs a brand new well known high end brand.

This was with all stock items under the hood..

The car showed NO gain in kw with the high end filter.

This was compared to a oem filter that had been in the car for 20,000kms.

There was no change in peak KW or torque curve and AFR's were bang on the same..

Even the tuner was surprised.

I say stick with oem..

no one can argue with that.

i wonder if being stock it doesnt need to be able to flow more if you know what i mean...?

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i was meaning more the material used and how it is put together, how it flows etc. size wise the element probably would be similar.

sort of comparing to very different things pods - drop ins. intake temps/how it flows/snorkelectomy/everything else etc. apples and bannanas will taste the same but they are both fruit...

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 madmike said:

I bet if you got a knife and cut most pods out to lay flat they would be the same if not smaller in overall filter size...

Depends, Simota do a double stack pod with filter media recessed into top, also believe airflow pattern comes into it, a pod although the same area, has smoother airflow characteristics compared to a panel and box thus can get air more effieciently.

Wether or not it makes a difference on mildly modded motor, who knows.

I do however love induction noise in my turbos, so ill get some benefit.

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 madmike said:

If a pod flowed better why doesn't every car come from the manufacturer with one fitted?

For a standard to mildly modded car i bet your KW would go down if you just whipped out the standard airbox and whacked a poddie on...

induction noise and reliability or two.

why do cars have air con it makes them slower? why do they have noise reduction chambers on every car? theyre ugly and cost 3cent more to make in japan? ;D

i agree with the power loss as intake temps would rise. i have a front mount so i cant run standard airbox or i would.

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