What can make a tapping sound from the flywheel area?

[Guest]

 cpt kernow said:

Been there, done all the combos i can think of. but in everycase the sound only appears when power is going through the back of the clutch/primary drive.

Coasting in neutral with no ignition=no noise.

Maybe I should cut an access hatch to have a look.........

Coating in neutral with ign off will have 1st and 2nd gear not rotataing

So i'd suggest you coast (bout 20km/h) again and select gears leaving foot on clutch and see what happens,

I'd be very supprised if 1st or 2nd aint the cause

[cpt kernow]

 Treecrusher']

[quote name='cpt kernow said:

Maybe I should cut an access hatch to have a look.........

/quote]

Cut? why not just remove the rubber boot where the clutch fork goes in as already suggested?

I've already said that I peered inside and saw loads of shiny new burs all over the teeth. Didn't do it from the clutch fork as it's under the IC but from underneath behind the steering rack.

Anyways....

Started getting into it today. Took off the IC, starter etc etc and when I went to remove the engine steady I noticed

So I'm guessing that the nut dropped off, hit the inboard CV and flicked into the flywheel by the big gap right infront of it.

What do you reckon? Bit of a co-incedence ay.

[Guest]

It's a car so anything is possible

Just wouldnt expect it to be making a constant noise with rpm

[log1call]

Oww, good spotting. Sounds possible. Does the bolt look as though it just lost it's nut recently? Nut stuck somewhere that hits with the clutch off but not with it on, hmm, back of the flywheel, clutch moves crank because of a bit of endfloat caused by all those full rev launches, nut doesn't touch. Time for a magnet. Hope that's it.

[cpt kernow]

Yup the threads are still bright.

The box is gonna be dropped out tomorrow to look at the clutch.

Kinda glad I'm doing this as half the bolts down there were finger tight. The other half are tight as.

[log1call]

That's a worry then. Those bolts don't come loose by them selves. I'd say that box has been worked on by some bugger that didn't know what they were doing, like really seriously didn;t know how to tighten bolts even, You should be worried... very worried!

[DRFVDR]

^^^^^^^ +1

I would so be looking at the box

as excessive force in the box may have stretched the bolts which would of made them loose and then the nuts would then be loose

[cpt kernow]

So I'm here to end all the suspense.....

And the Winner is.....?

It all went well removin my first subie-box except I didn't know the driveshafts were held in with pins. And I was trying to lever the buggers out the box. Other than that it's all good.

Loads of those teeth are cracking but the ones shown are the worst. None missing either. Looks like I caught it early. Got a recon'd on the way due to a good hook up I know.

But is it easy/cheapish to fix this so I can sell this one?

Thanks for all your help people!

[Guest]

 Ichi Ban said:

My money is on your gearbox (from your discription)

1st or 2nd gear with a tooth missing

Take it to a workshop to have checked (5min diagnosis )

Yay , my diagnostic skills work even over the WWW

[Treecrusher]

 cpt kernow said:

But is it easy/cheapish to fix this so I can sell this one?

I've got a cheap first/second gear set for sale, including input shaft. So if you knew someone to put it in it would be a very cheap fix.

[kamineko]

lol yep. now we can cash in

i've little experience but find it surprising those teeth held together. once weakened i'd expect them to shear pretty quick?

[cpt kernow]

Same but I don't do any launches etc so could've been like it for a while. Theres about 4-5 cracked teeth in different places around it so not sure if their related to the same incident. The last guy may have been clutch happy tho?

I've put my new box in but too scared to turn the key incase the noise is still there.

[Glen]

Well at least if it is still there you'll know it wasn't the box! ;D

[cpt kernow]

Well good news-it drives!!!

My box works nicely and no shudders or grinding so I'm pretty stoked that it was a forester box so I'm not running different finals to each end-Like if it was converted to an impreza before I got it.

The only hickups are the tin heatshields on the exhaust/turbo rattle heaps so need to tighten and the speedo sensor doesn't work so it's thrown a CEL. Well I hope it's that, gonna pull it up now to make sure.

If the CEL is on and there's no speed sensor it doesn't pull as smoothly, I guess it's because it's in safe mode?

[Guest]

correct

You have cable speedo drive (correct?) in which case you either haven't clipped the two halves properly together or have managed to pull it off the back of the cluster (dash display)

If electronic, just plug it in

[cpt kernow]

I checked all the conections on my test drive (and 100 times on the rebuild-I took notes when stripping) I think it may be a bung sensor. Got the old one from the box tho so no dramas, just waiting for it to cool down

[Guest]

Sensor failure isn't common but have had the odd one or two fail

[cpt kernow]

I was thinking the cables would've got messed up in the wreckers, they look pretty corroded and I've got a spare, so why not? At least I know it works so is a good benchmark.

[5UBZRO]

 sickmatesick said:

could be a noisy clutch throwout bearing?

That would have been my first diagnosis since it was mention that it does it with the clutch partially engaged...

[cpt kernow]

 5UBZRO']

[quote name='sickmatesick said:

could be a noisy clutch throwout bearing?

/quote]

That would have been my first diagnosis since it was mention that it does it with the clutch partially engaged...

Took me a while to figure out how that little bugger worked when reassembling tho.

To remove I had to pull the pin on the fork and to put back in I had to whip off the clutch and remove the inside bush. then hope it engages when the housing's back on.

[5UBZRO]

 cpt kernow']

[quote name='sickmatesick said:

could be a noisy clutch throwout bearing?

/quote]

That would have been my first diagnosis since it was mention that it does it with the clutch partially engaged...

Took me a while to figure out how that little bugger worked when reassembling tho.

To remove I had to pull the pin on the fork and to put back in I had to whip off the clutch and remove the inside bush. then hope it engages when the housing's back on.

Yea they are a push type clutch, first application of the clutch will engage the release bearing into the fingers. when you say "inside bush", what exactly do u mean by that?

[Guest]

 5UBZRO said:

Yea they are a push type clutch, first application of the clutch will engage the release bearing into the fingers. when you say "inside bush", what exactly do u mean by that?

Nope they are a PULL type clutch and you have to engage the relaese bearing into the pressure plate manually

[5UBZRO]

haha oops sorry ur right! And it wasnt that long ago i did mine! sorry for the confusion.

[cpt kernow]

thought I'd repost it.

Here's the sensor. Should've looked closer when I put the box in.

[DRFVDR]

that will do it