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Battery Relocation


nt_a_foz

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Stripped my seats etc and carpet part back last night to get the lengths measured up to get lugs welded on.

Hardest part so far is finding somewere to put the cable through the firewall ....

Looks like the way i said above will wokr mint.

Also you dont have ot put lugs on the fuse box power cable adn starter..they arleady have them were they attach to the battery terminal..

Have taken photos and will do a diy thread for it when im finished

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Theres usually heaps of room to go through the firewall where the aircon piping comes through its just a bit hard to get at from the cabin. Easy when you have no aircon or fan :), My whole engine loom and battery cables now go through there and theres still room for **** loads more if need be.

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 nt_a_foz said:

did you rip the metal plate thing with the aircon hoses on out??

iv removed air con and piping back to fire wall haha but no further than that

I removed all the fan stuff on the cabin side too...to do the engine loom and never got round to putting it back in. There wasnt any metal plate just a biiig rubber grommet, legacy might be a touch different tho.

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Guest Fastfour

Ive had all the a/c bits gutted out of the interior bar the a/c button lol

Still have working fan and heater.

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you are lucky then, nothing works in my car haha. The fan is on the other side of the AC so it only blows onto the passengers leg. If it just moves over and connects to the heater and the vents then Im in business...........way more important things to do for now tho.

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I'm with Ichi.. if you stick the battery in the boot the least you should do is run a grounding cable, that is equal in size to the power cable, back to the engine bay. By all means earth the battery in the boot also, but that good clean low resistance earth in the engine bay is a must.

You'll need to make sure that once it gets to the engine bay that you split it to the block, to the starter motor, and then off to the main fuse/relay box. Any feedback from the starter motor will be directed straight to the battery, which will dampen it, rather than it being fed through the block and fusebox, where you can get floating ground voltages at the ECU (bad things start to happen).

 Ichi Ban said:

I'm back :)

My reference was to having the engine block earthed direct to battery

This way all the ECU earths are "above ground" as they earth to the intake manifold

If you dont, it is possible to back feed the starter to earth via the ECU if the chassis earth builds up resistance

ECU's not like that sort of current :)

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I have multiple earths in the boot and one from the chassis to the block (ECU also directly earthed to the block). Ive only ever had one ECU issue with that and that was when I jump started the car frying the power input to the ecu and the battery has been in the boot for about 3 years now.

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 driftrex said:

brad mine goes through the rubber thing around the aircon pipes that you were talking bout, easy enough to push it through from engine bay side, then stick your hand up under dash to find it.

Yup thats what we found last night..went between the 2 aircon hoses in the fire wall.

Im going to cut the termanil off the negative that goes from the block to batttery then to chassis. Join the 2 togther and straight earth those.

Iv sorted 2 earhts one by the battery box n the other to the rear seat bolt.

Getting terminals today and finishing off tonight

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Please, for the love of all things good....

Make sure if you drill any holes in firewall/frame, MAKE SURE you use a rubber grommit, (better yet, a compression gland).

And if you really want a bit of piece of mind, get a circuit breaker/Buty fuse

You really dont want that sparking....

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I relocated battery to the boot about 6months ago and had no problems, reason i done it was mainly for convience but also to have a place i could put the ra watersprayer tank in the engine bay and with battery being similar size i thought it was logical. after i finished it shortened all my amp cables and helped clean things up definately a worthwhile task if you run tons of electronics like i do 3amps,inverter,playstation,scanner etc

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 wrx_lou']

looking forward to it. You got your gauges in too? how'd they look?

nah man got them into the pod and all wired up in a loom but not in the car yet..

[quote name='Old Skool Subbie said:

Is there any reason for moving the battery to the back?

I know it is sometimes used to distrbute weight to the back but is there any other resons why it done?

my intercooler pipe rubs on the bonnet because battery wont let it go down far enough.

Also needed somewere to put catch can and oil filter relocation.

Just makes it a bit tidyier also.

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  • 3 weeks later...
 STi-TypeR said:

have you done this yet, Are you going to post ya DIY thread with photos ;-D ?? need all the help i cn get lol

if you read the thread, there is a few links to a DIY that you can use to get the idea of what to do

-smurff

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In a GC8, putting the battery into the boot was lets say.... easier than breathing.

All i did was disconnect the power lead that runs from the battery to the starter motor. Replaced it with a 0 gauge cable that I will be running to the boot, I ran mine down the passengers side. I took the front and rear seats and carpet out to do this as i wanted a tidy install (was also installing sounds at the same time). On the passengers side I removed the carpet back revealing the ECU and kick panel, Above that kick panel to the right is a bung hole where the drip from the AC goes out of the car onto the ground, now since im not using AC anymore that drip pipe doesnt work, meaning i have a perfectly good sized bung hole that will perfectly fit my 0 gauge cable. I connected the 0 Gauge Cable to the Started motor, Feed it through the bung hole (perfect fit and also seals nicely with the rubber bung that is there), And ran it down the passengers side sill, Now i like stuff to be tidy, so when i ran it along the side, I laid it under the Plastic covers protecting the Fuel lines.... if only i took pics... damnit....... this might help...

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