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Rosssub's Suspension Bush Upgrade

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I\'ve recently replaced my Sway Bar Links and Mount Bushes:


Since fitting the new parts I\'ve developed loads of suspension knocks and rattles, I think stiffening the Sway bars up has made every other bush cry and want to fall out. I\'ve pulled all control arms/links off the rear end to inspect and every single rear end control arm bush is completely dead.

Rear Lower Front Inner Bush:


Rear End Parts Exploded:


OEM Replacements from Subaru:

Rear Lower Front Link (#10) - $304+gst each (comes as full link) X2

Rear Lower Rear Link Inner Bush (#15) - $43+gst each X2

Rear Lower Rear Link Outer Bush (#8) - $37+gst each X2

Rear Upper Inner Bush (#13) - $37+gst each X2

Rear Upper Outer Bush (#14) - $50+gst each X2

Total including GST - $1079 + Freight


Rear Lower Front Link bushes (#10) - $183 set

Rear Lower Rear Link Inner Bush (#15) - $108.30 pair

Rear Lower Rear Link Outer Bush (#8) - $63.89 pair

Rear Upper Link Inner Bush (#13) - $58.98 pair

Rear Upper Link Outer Bush (#14) - $173.36 pair

Total -$607.53

Whiteline only had 2/5 available but were pretty even with Nolathane. I\'ve just ordered a full Nolathane rear end set (here tomorrow) less the Trailing Arm Bush (#7)which I\'ll do later on. I\'ve had my front A-arms off and my front bushes aren\'t that bad so they can wait for now...

Edit: Currently cornering it feels like the rear tires are flat and rolling over, but they\'re not...

Edited by Rosssub
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The Nolathane bushes (#15) for the RLR Inner ($108.30)aren\'t available right now so I\'m using 2 of the OEM 20250AE01A ($98.90) instead.

Edit: Turns out Nolathane 46330 Upper Inner was out too so I\'ve been sent Whiteline W63396.

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Looking at the front end with Alloy A-arms, Whiteline definitely have more options for the front, Standard/Anti-lift/Hard Anti-lift/Castor correction etc:



Front Lower Rear Bush (2 piece insert) - 45440 - $195

Front Lower Front Inner (2 piece insert) - 45474 - $135


Front Lower Front Inner Bush (2 piece insert) - W51709A - $60

Front Lower Front Inner Bush (pressed) - W52837 - $65

Front Lower Rear Bush (2 piece insert) - W51710 - $135

Front Lower Rear Bush (Pressed Castor Adjust) - KCA375 - $175

Front Lower Rear Bush (Anti-lift Comfort) - KCA361 - $285

Front Lower Rear Bush (Anti-lift Hard) - KCA319A - $290

Front Lower Rear Bush (Anti-lift Motorsport) - KCA319M - $300

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I Started by Chocking the front wheels, in 1st gear. Jacked the rear of the car up and placed it on axle stands. Arm bushes etc should only be tightened up when the car\'s at normal ride height, so I fitted spring compressor to the rear struts.

Then marked the rotation and location of the \'Rear Toe In Adjusting Bolts\':


Then removed the Rear Left Lower Rear Control Arm/Link:


I\'m using my \'flash\' press I used for my rear diff support bushes. A few different length 12mm bolts, 1 Socket big enough to go over the bush and 1 Socket that is just slightly smaller than the Bushes outer diameter.


Press fitted:


This Bush started moving easy compared to a diff hanger. 2nd press bolt in now, bush has moved about 20mm into the larger Socket:


I knocked the last 10mm or so through with a socket and rubber mallet.

Rear Lower Rear Outer Bush removed:


I cleaned the hole up and greased the inside holes of the new Nolathane N46328 and slid them into the hub. Then inserted the bolt collar/bush centre and cleaned off the excess grease. My new OEM bushes for the inner end aren\'t here yet, so I reinstalled the Arm. From what I can see all the rear end Control arm/Link Torque settings are 88 ft/lbs (120nm).


After an hour of trying everything I had to undo the Rear Upper Inner Bolt, I gave up. Almost a finger broken and a rounded nut to top it off. I\'ll wait till my Saber Saw comes home and cut the bolt.

Rear Upper Outer unbolted and press fitted:


Other option is a Gear Puller, but mine is a bit under sized for these bushes. I figured it was better to finish with than the mallet:


Rear Upper Outer Control Arm/Link Bush removed:


Hole cleaned up, new Nolathane N46325 greased and fitted, they press in by hand. Upper Control Arm back on, torqued to 88 ft/lbs (120nm):


Rear Lower Front Control Arm/Link removed:


These bushes were in the worst condition, I\'ve pushed the rubber out. I don\'t have a socket big enough for these bushes, so I\'ve used a punch and hammer to fold in 4 corners:


Then it punched out reasonably easy with the Mallet. New Nolathane N46327 greased and ready to fit:


I used a small Vice to press one in, then used the \'flash bolt press\' to fit the other end. I had to put spacers over the Nolathane rubber ends that stick out:


New Nolathane N46327 fitted, ready to grease and put back in:


Rear Lower Front Control Arm/Link refitted and torqued to 88 ft/lbs, I found it easiest to fit the Inner end first:


Ready to attack to other side now, the red definitely stands out. Motivation to finally get some 2 Pot rear callipers:



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  • 2 weeks later...

I chocked the rear wheels in 1st gear (park), with handbrake on. Jacked up the front and placed securely on axle stands.

Then unbolted the Lower Sway Bar Link and pulled the Link clear.

Then removed the Ball Joint Housing Clamping/Locking Bolt:


Then used a Bar to "gently" pull the Ball Joint from the Housing (the Strut will hang):


Then loosened the A-Arm Front Inner Bolt:


I left the Front Bolt in, to support the A-arm while I unbolted the rear:


The A-Arm Rear Bush/Chassis Bolts are pretty tight, I used a 3ft Power Bar/Extension on them:


19mm Socket on the Rear Bush Inner Chassis Bolt:


Then removed the pre-loosened Front Bolt and the A-Arm is now free:


With the Rear Bushing and Ball Joint still attached:


I used the Extension again to Undo the Rear Bush/A-arm Nut (can\'t get a socket on while fitted to vehicle).

I could mark the rotation/location of the Bush to the A-arm now for refitting the new Rear Bushes, but my Bushes are torn/free spinning so I didn\'t bother:


This is the state of my OEM Front Rear Bushes, completely split/torn right through:


After the trouble I had removing the first OEM Front Inner Bush (stupid tight), I got a mate to run me into town with the second A-arm and had a workshop press it out. Took less than 2 minutes and no charge :D

New Whiteline W51709A fitted and greased. New Front Rear Bush, from BNT (Rubber Pro LHC7263) fitted.

Rear Bush "not tightened" yet, as the car is not at normal ride height:



When re-installing I fitted the Ball Joint first, housing/clamp Bolt tightened to 37ft/lbs (50Nm).

The Front Bush Bolt was put in, but left loose again for support.

Then bolt the Rear Bush to Chassis and tighten/torque up to 181ft/lbs (245Nm).


Refit the Sway Bar Link and tighten/torque to 22ft/lbs (30Nm)

Left A-Arm back in, Main A-Arm Bush Bolts (Inner and Rear) only just tight (final torque at ride height for anti lift):


After the other A-arm was finished, I put the front wheels back on.

Then lowered the cars weight onto blocks (normal ride height).

Then tightened the A-Arm Front Inner Bolt to 74ft/lbs (100Nm).

Then tightened the A-Arm Rear Bush Bolt to 181ft/lbs (245Nm)

Now every worn and torn OEM Suspension Bush front and rear has been replaced, bar the rear trailing arm front bushes ;D

Edited by Rosssub
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  • 5 months later...

Went bush again today, the last bushes to be replaced. Trailing arm bushes, Whiteline W63398 (nolathane 46333):


I sprayed all bolts with CRC before starting, then loosened the trailing arm front pivot bolt. Then unbolted the trailing arm hanger from the chassis.


Then unbolted all rear control arms at the hub end, also removed the lower strut bolt. Leaving only the axle and sway bar attached, with the hub supported on an axle stand:


Trailing arm dropped to get at the bush:


Perished and split after 215,000km:


Drilling out the rubber/centre:


Centre removed, I then used a hacksaw blade to cut through the outer skin of the bush. Then lifted an edge with a flathead:


Then I drove the screwdriver through between the bush and trailing arm with a rubber mallet:


Left trailing arm front bush removed:


All cleaned up and Whiteline W63398 greased and installed, again they just push in by hand:


Trailing arm pivot bolt, then hanger bracket reinstalled:


All control arms and strut bolted back up:


This pic shows the drivers side trailing arm chassis bracket unbolted and dropped to remove the front pivot bolt:


Drivers side bush is just as bad:


Last bush to be replaced goes in:


Finally all done. :)

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  • 3 months later...

Reviving an old thread, but just a few questions:

- If doing this over a period of time i.e not enough money to do all at once, would it be best to save all the parts up and do all at once? or are there certain ones that could be done first, others that can be done down the track?

- How much difference in using Nolathelene/whiteline to standard OEM ones?

- For a pretty stock standard car/wagon is there any major benefits of upgrading the bushes?

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Probably easiest to get them all done at once, even if getting someone else to do it. Sway bar mounts can be done easy with the most noticeable change. Difference was night and day on my wagon.

Looking at prices it works out cheaper going aftermarket anyway.

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  • 1 year later...

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