silicone intakes... YES/NO? what brand should i get?

[hunter951]

 KingCole said:

Na, 23 psi mid range and 17 psi up top on VF37

ah yea see im getting 20 psi mid range and 16 up top... im after a more stable boost curve.... holding 21psi to redline would be nice and that what a aftermarket intake hose and ebc will help with

[KingCole]

 hunter951 said:

ah yea see im getting 20 psi mid range and 16 up top... im after a more stable boost curve.... holding 21psi to redline would be nice and that what a aftermarket intake hose and ebc will help with

If it is stock turbo, you wont be able to hold anything above 17psi up top unless you upgrade the actuator..

[hunter951]

 KingCole said:

If it is stock turbo, you wont be able to hold anything above 17psi up top unless you upgrade the actuator..

will tackle that one once iv got my EBC installed along with intake hose, but yea i have thought about that. Any suggestion on where and what to upgrade the factory actuator on a vf30 to? kinugawa?

[KingCole]

 hunter951 said:

will tackle that one once iv got my EBC installed along with intake hose, but yea i have thought about that. Any suggestion on where and what to upgrade the factory actuator on a vf30 to? kinugawa?

Kinugawa sells one for VF30 so that's an option but I have had no experience how they perform so maybe one of the other members can chime in on that.

[boon]

 KingCole said:

If it is stock turbo, you wont be able to hold anything above 17psi up top unless you upgrade the actuator..

Wut?

I had a VF34 (same wheels as a VF30 so functionally the same in terms of top end) that held 21psi all the way to the redline with a 3-port boost solenoid run by a Link G4. WGDC was getting pretty high but it would do it.

What's the point anyway? VF3* will make peak power at about 6300rpm and fall off steeply after that, no point flogging the motor, may as well just shift... unless you need 260kph in 6th or whatever they're good for.

[Fortyone.co.nz]

Tomei = $280ea

[Guest]

Stock ecu with 3 port has same functionality as g4 doesnt it? Im still struggling with why a 3 port at 70 buck isnt as cool as a 400 buck gfb job.

I ran 20psi to redline with stock vf actuator guessing it wasnt pushing hot air as gcp tuned it.

[Guest]

Hijacka ran a kinugawa one with an 18g.

[hijacka]

 evowrx said:

Hijacka ran a kinugawa one with an 18g.

Ran a td05h turbo with 20g comp wheel and cover, had to port the housing right out to the edge of the flapper to get control over boost and even though i bought the kinugawa adjustable w.g with 14psi spring i had to cut a coil off the spring as when tested on compressor it wasn't opening till 22psi.. once i cut a coil off it was opening at 16psi:)

I reckon you could bleed a factory wastegate to 20psi but at those pressures and above external would be best bet and less hassle aye.

Edited November 23, 2014 by hijacka

[hunter951]

reason im after a gfb over just a 3-port is they are more adjustable and have a few features that l like.... the closed loop strategy sounds like a good thing too. i have definitely considered a 3-port but a feel a gfb offers a more user friendly setup that doesn't require me getting gotasuby to readjust it everytime....? Im guessing the factory ecu with 3-port has limited function and tunablilty compared to a gfb?

[Guest]

If youre adjusting boost you should be tuning it regardless. Ive never actually been inside a stock ecu only a g4 im just basing what im saying on what people who have seen both have said.

Kiwi fozze would know and iirc he ran gfb would be good to get his thoughts.

[hunter951]

iyd get it tuned for my top psi... 20...21 by gotasuby, but surely theres no harm in lowering the boost... to 16 if you are planning a long road trip for instance? ( sorry if thats a dumb thing to say.... im no mechanic)

[boon]

A mostly-stock V7 STI will pull about 21psi if it has a free-flowing downpipe and exhaust. Holding it to redline, as I mentioned, is mostly wank because the turbo falls outside the compressor's efficiency map and just blows hot air anyway.

Unless you plan on doing your road trips in second gear with your foot up it then there is a net difference of exactly 0 between running 21psi peak boost and 16psi peak boost because it's only going to get on the boost when you plant it i.e. overtaking in which case you may as well have all the boost available.

High/low boost switches = wank

"Scramble boost" = wank

If I want lots of boost I put my foot up it.

If I don't want lots of boost I don't put my foot up it.

Easy.

I don't even run a boost gauge and fundamentally couldn't give a turd how many psi the car is making at any given time, it boils down to "how fast am I going, how fast do I want to be going, and how quickly is that changing?"

[Guest]

I like a spring pressure switch well it worked well with vf where the slightest nudge of the throttle would mean 20psi. Awesome when you feel like hooning tho.

[hunter951]

Yea that does make alot of sense. What about the sensitivity adjustment and closed loop stratigy? that help keep a consistent psi as is designed to eliminate fluctions in different gears...high rpm... and atmospherics?

Edited November 26, 2014 by hunter951

[hunter951]

thought id update.... my new V7 wrx sti has a Samco silicone intake hose, i also removed the intake silencer before tuning. The intake and silencer delete allowed for around 10kw gains then stock parts fitted, (before intake was 210kw, after was around 220-229kw) has some crazy arse spool now even with stock air box, which is pleasing to the ears.

[Timmah]

 hunter951 said:

thought id update.... my new V7 wrx sti has a Samco silicone intake hose, i also removed the intake silencer before tuning. The intake and silencer delete allowed for around 10kw gains then stock parts fitted, (before intake was 210kw, after was around 220-229kw) has some crazy arse spool now even with stock air box, which is pleasing to the ears.

That's the $150 one off Trademe eh?

[Guest]

To clarify this gain was it pre tune on dyno vs pre/post tune on dyno or bum dyno"/road dyno?

[hunter951]

Yea think so. Thats the estimated power from road tune, so ball park lol definitely gave noticeable gains anyway.

[Guest]

You using virtual dyno? you can with your car iirc.

[boon]

 evowrx said:

You using virtual dyno? you can with your car iirc.

Just gonna throw it out there that I've now had Dynapak confirmation that virtual dyno results aren't worth a flying turd, even when done by someone regarded as being skilled and experienced in their operation.

[hunter951]

yea virtual dyno. well there are a guess, but they give a fair idea of what its doing...

[Kiwi_Fozze]

I had my sensitivity wound up fairly high, 60 from memory. Much higher and it would oscilate boost.

Now running 3port on factory ecu, MUCH more control, only downside is not so much boost at launch

[boon]

 hunter951 said:

yea virtual dyno. well there are a guess, but they give a fair idea of what its doing...

Just say it's 240wkw, people will just think you got a really good motor

[D1Style]

 boon said:

Just gonna throw it out there that I've now had Dynapak confirmation that virtual dyno results aren't worth a flying turd, even when done by someone regarded as being skilled and experienced in their operation.

Found with my last tune there was a difference in 15kw between the two.

Virtual dyno = 221wkw

Dynapack = 206wkw