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Clutch change pictorial


kamineko
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Took some snaps of the important bits if you're attempting a turbo clutch change for the first time. Or if you're stuck on the release bearing part

Car details: BG5B manual / single turbo

But most of this is relevant to a turbo manual

I am installing a 225mm clutch kit (early WRX / 1st gen turbo legacy). Clutch Pro KSU23005 from BNT. The kit included a new friction plate / pressure plate / release bearing / spigot bearing

96'+ 5MT Turbo spec is actually 230mm. Will follow up in a few months with how this goes.

Get the car up on jack stands. It would help to raise the rear a little also, you need to get to the diff/muffler. Be safe!

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Remove battery, intercooler, starter motor

Remove clutch fork pin bung (10mm hex)

20150314_142319s.jpg

Pull out the clutch fork pin with some kind of hook, or if too tight, I think its a M4 thread

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Once the pin is removed, remove the clutch fork spring, then pull the fork upwards to disengage from the release bearing (see pic of new bearing below to understand what you are doing here)

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Punch the pins out from the gearbox diff stubs (yup, my stub seals are leaking a bit)

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CRC or otherwise the lower hub knuckles, remove that wet looking bolt, and a bolt from each of the swaybar links

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Pull/lever front arm downwards to disengage from the hub. Hub can now be pulled away from the car, allowing driveshafts to become free of the gearbox

Take care not to damage the lower ball joint rubber boot.

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Now is a great time to remove the downpipe, and exhaust system

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Remove the rear diff carrier cover

Mark orientation of the drive-shaft to rear diff

Unbolt drive shaft from rear diff. You may need to lift the rear of the car to rotate a rear wheel.

Unbolt central driveshaft bearing mount (not pictured). Remove driveshaft. It will simply pull out of the gearbox.

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Undo the gearshift linkages (or punch the pin, whatever you find easier) This is probably much easier after the gearbox carrier frame is removed

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Unbolt the clutch slave cylinder, don't undo the lines. Unbolt the gearbox top mount/hanger and unplug the gearbox electrical connections

DO NOT PUMP CLUTCH PEDAL! That would go terribly while the slave is unloaded.

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Use some method to support the engine, as it will want to roll towards to radiator when not bolted to a supported gearbox.

Raising the front of the engine a little also helps the removal / re-install of the gearbox. Don't go overboard, as you could possibly damage the engine mounts.

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Use some method to support the gearbox. A solid trolley jack, with some strapping for security works well for me. Where I've secured it is about the balance point of the gearbox.

Remove the gearbox supporting frame

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Remove the remaining nuts/bolts from the gearbox bell housing.

Separate the Gearbox from the engine. You may need to pry evenly. Sometimes the dowels get a bit stuck.

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Pull the gearbox away from the engine until the input shaft clears the clutch.

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Slowly drop the gearbox while pulling away from the engine. Once down, pull it further back to make room for yourself

Note that if the gearbox is not kept level, transmission oil can leak from the rear while the driveshaft is removed.

20150314_190217s.jpg

This is what you might expect to find if you have a factory 230mm clutch. Pay attention to where any oil leaks are coming from. Prime suspects are the kidney plate / rear oil seal and gearbox input shaft oil seal

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Nice, dry, no internal oil leaks. (I had repaired a kidney plate leak about 20K ago. See the shiny cleaned area? If that's oily then the kidney plate is the likely culprit)

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Removal of clutch pressure plate and friction plate will leave you with a flywheel

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Removal of flywheel will expose the crankshaft rear seal, and kidney plate as mentioned above. If this area is oily, now is the time to fix it. That metal plate is an uprated part that supersedes the earlier black plastic version.

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Remove the release bearing is by separating it from the bird-cage thing like so. Just pulling the bearing is exactly what happens when you operate the clutch normally, it will not come out.

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Once unlocked from the birdcage, very little effort is required to remove.

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Get your flywheel machined. (Different flywheel pictured, I changed to a lightweight one)

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Install a new Spigot bearing. Lightly tap it in flush with the front surface of the flywheel. Tap only against the outer metal ring of the bearing using a suitable socket. Don't tap it in further than flush, the crank mating surface locates into that gap.

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Install the fresh flywheel. Torque to 52.8 ft. lbs. +/-2

Brakeclean the flywheel surface

Use a clutch alignment tool to fit the new friction plate

Pay attention to the 'Gearbox side' orientation note on the friction plate itself

20150319_151507s.jpg

Brakeclean the pressure plate surface

Important! Fit the pressure plate loosely, and using the alignment tool, wiggle the friction plate so its dead centre (see picture. Just using the tool will not guarantee alignment, as the weight of the friction plate drags it down)

Tighten pressure plate evenly (star pattern etc to prevent deforming the plate) to 11.6 ft. lbs. +/-1

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Clean, lightly re-grease the gearbox sleeve, release bearing hooks and the clutch fork pin assembly

Very lightly grease the gearbox shaft to aid installation. Excess grease will be thrown at your clutch surface during operation.

Assemble like so

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Secure the clutch fork forward before moving the gearbox

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Now the fun part -reinstall the gearbox. If the angle of the engine hasn't changed, and the gearbox is still on the jack as it came off, this shouldn't be too painful.

Carefully re-align using the bottom stubs but make sure the gearbox is perfectly in line with the engine on approach.

If the gearbox is grating on the thread of the bottom bolts that's an indication of wrong angle.

Once the gearbox is close to engaging, the input shaft will protrude through the clutch and into the spigot bearing. At this point you may require some wiggling from the back of the gearbox.

There is a chance the spines are not in line, you can put the gearbox into gear and rotate the diff stubs or output shaft by hand a little to assist.

Mind the bottom dust cover (engine side) does not catch on the bottom of the gearbox housing.

Mind the clutch fork arm does not catch the parts on the firewall.

Mind the gearshift assembly does not catch or get caught at the rear of the gearbox.

The engine dowels may prevent you pushing the gearbox in by hand. If the gap is even all the way around the bell housing, I carefully wind in a top mounting bolt and judge by low torque if it is safe to bring it together.

Once you have bolted the gearbox back together, Its time to engage the release bearing onto the pressure plate.

Push the clutch fork arm towards the firewall. There should be a mechanical click as it engages.

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Pull the arm away from the firewall. It should move slightly, then become firm as you are trying to manually release the clutch.

20150320_192133s.jpg

Put everything back in more or less the reverse order.

-Remove whatever engine support you used before doing up the top gearbox mount/hanger

-Install the clutch fork pin bung and clutch slave cylinder before fitting the starter motor

-Don't forget the clutch fork spring. Or the main earth on the starter motor. Or anything else you pulled off! :)

-Clean the Section of drive shaft that slides into the gearbox. Take care not to damage the gearbox rear seal.

-The DOJ (inner 'CV') need to be located onto the gearbox stubs at one rotational position only, where the pin holes line up perfectly. (The other possible orientation is almost there, you don't want to hammer the pins through that )

-Use coppercoat or antiseize on turbo nuts. Don't re-use damaged turbo nuts, that's just nasty. If you do have to replace, use the same hardened type.

-If you used CRC etc around the brake rotors, clean them with Brakeclean

-Test clutch pedal

-Test that the new clutch can stall the car

-Take it easy on your new clutch, follow whatever bedding in procedure is relevant to your new parts.

:)

Edited by kamineko
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